You test yourself by seeing how many moves you can do, going round and round until you fall off.
I assume the original designer has a financial interest in keeping their testing protocol to themselves but I doubt this will be possible in the longer-term
More and more walls are putting up latticeboards for training on, and clearly they're a useful tool both for training and benchmarking different aspects of forearm fitness. So, what do people think are the most effective ways to use the latticeboard, and what training or benchmarking protocols do they follow?I assume the original designer has a financial interest in keeping their testing protocol to themselves but I doubt this will be possible in the longer-term. A comparison could be made with when campus boards started to become more widespread.
I thought the assessment method and different ways to use the board was pinned to it at the Foundry?
I'm down at the Foundry on Wed with Ollie Torr making up training sheets & photos for some sessions.
Hi Pete, ah ok Boardroom is your one. Speak to Freddie and please feel free to let him know I said to give him a shout! He's done quite a few assessments and he has my number so can call me if he's at all unsure about anything. We're working on all this stuff 7 days a week (I promise you... we're knackered! :-).....) and it's very much the intention to have a better and better resources available next to the boards. For example I'm down at the Foundry on Wed with Ollie Torr making up training sheets & photos for some sessions. At the moment, we're reliant on the coaches we've trained up to be helpful and friendly to climbers in the wall.
It has been questioned in a separate thread how accurate the data will be given that different climbers will have had different degrees of practice before taking the test. Even basic exercises have a large technique component that can be learned with repetition (e.g. campusing is easier the more you do it due to you getting accustomed to the exercise). To be truly scientific, I would say that all climbers tested should be doing the lattice test for the first time (impossible?)
Also we're putting together some training sheets for customers that everyone at the centre can use to train on the board and benchmark their own ability against the various energy systems.
Will information on "x" amount of moves relates to redpointing/onsight "x" grade be included Tom? Or is that exclusive to doing an assesment?
Oh yes. That's why we brought Remus on board. He's the stats pro ;-)
Quote from: Tommy on January 17, 2017, 10:53:37 amOh yes. That's why we brought Remus on board. He's the stats pro ;-)I wondered who you'd got after I never heard from you again.
QuoteDoes that mean the board isn't available on Wednesday?You're very welcome to it. We're just doing some development stuff. Come and say hi :-)
Does that mean the board isn't available on Wednesday?
Hi, Tom, I was wondering how the zlagboard competition maximum hang time on an edge (20mm ?) relates to the lattice board endurance testing ?
Quote from: Mark Lloyd on January 17, 2017, 01:30:05 pmHi, Tom, I was wondering how the zlagboard competition maximum hang time on an edge (20mm ?) relates to the lattice board endurance testing ?Hi, Tom, I was wondering how lattice board endurance testing relates to rock climbing ability?PS have you tested Cubitt? Back when I was at Uni (97ish), a couple of mates were on the UK comp team and the team trainer at the time had them do a foot-on campus session to failure which sounds very similar to the lattice board. With a bit of competitiveness various members of the team pushed the time to three and then four minutes, each exploding off with forearms like piglets. Then Cubitt stepped up. After fifteen minutes he asked if he could get down as he wasn't getting pumped and didn't see the point.
Hi, Tom, I was wondering how lattice board endurance testing relates to rock climbing ability?