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Using a latticeboard (Read 63974 times)

ali k

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#175 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 23, 2021, 11:26:11 am
Not sure if it’s just me but I find the angled rungs of the latticeboard pinch my little fingers to the point that I give up through pain.

Fultonius

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#176 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 23, 2021, 10:16:55 pm
I wouldn't want to second guess how the results have been turned into observations, but would agree that it looks like you just "underscored" on your first time around. I wouldn't read much into it without repeating the test on yourself. If you get weird scores on 2-3 separate occasions then I'd be inclined to think it's "real", though I'm not entirely sure what it would mean.

As an aside, from my limited experience of both of them, I'm more sold on the critical force test on Lattice's digirung (or Tindeq or similar) than the lattice board assessment. It still has a lot of unknowns (e.g. what really is W' - maybe we're back to just calling it "power endurance"?) but feels more useful to me.

Thanks Stu/Alex, that kind of sides with what I thought. I'll do a retest sometime. I reckon if I do a few single laps as "war up" and then have a good go on the max test I'll probably score higher. I was basically pretty comfortable up to about 4 or 5 moves before I failed, and then just got boxed on the downclimb. I suspect if I was a bit more aerobically warmed up (i.e. like if I was going for a PB onsight etc. I would have squeezed out 4 or 5 more moves and then the first 3 laps wouldn't have felt so cruisy.  That said, I didn't ever really "plateau" but maybe that's also due to it being slightly too low intensity for laps 1-3.

Anyone else find the downclimb quite awkward? I wonder if it's being tall? Mainly just being not that technically proficient  :lol:

duncan

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#177 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 24, 2021, 10:36:43 am



Interesting plot and answers. Shouldn’t Lattice be explaining the result to you themselves?


On a more simplistic question; if I want to get really fit & conditioned for routes but don’t have a partner to belay, Will climbing on the lattice board serve this function better than doing the auto belays at Awesome Walls in Sheffield?

I aim to get close to the angle of the routes I’m interested in, in my case vertical/gently overhanging trad. or trad-style sport. Autobelays work well for me. I sometimes mix it up with a steeper circuit board or timed bouldering for a bit of variety. If was mainly interested in steeper routes (like Alex?) I’d make more use of circuit boards of the appropriate angles.

« Last Edit: December 24, 2021, 10:55:40 am by duncan »

Fultonius

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#178 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 24, 2021, 11:31:22 am
I have queried it Duncan, and I'm going to re-do it next week in my own time to see how it compares.

Fultonius

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#179 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 29, 2021, 03:21:37 pm
Weirdness gets weirder....

Re-tested today with a warm up more conducive to a hard endurance route, and tried a bit to get more efficient sequencing for the drop down/left traverse (which I struggle with).

Managed to do 60 moves in the max test, which actually corresponds better to the expected (I was expected to get 61 moves). Confusingly it took me 2 mins 30 seconds, so around 2.5 seconds per move. (unless I did a full extra lap and mis-counted, but I'm fairly certain it was 4 full laps plus 4 moves, so 60 moves.)

I then did my laps, starting at 45 moves. First round it took me 58 seconds (I didn't feel like I was going way faster, but that's 1.3s per move, almost twice the speed...)

I then did 2 more laps after 58 seconds rest each time, and managed the full 45 moves again. Time per lap seemed to be more around the 1m30s - pacing is clearly all over the place for me! Sacked it off there as I again had no reductionin moves per lap between L1 and L3.

So, I've basically had roughly the same result, just everything is shunted up by 7%.  I'm tempted to just ignore the max moves test next time, and just do laps starting at 50 moves, using a metronome to help pacing. Even so, it does seem like I have a slightly unusual aero/anaero energy system mix?  :-\
« Last Edit: December 29, 2021, 03:44:06 pm by Fultonius »

Aussiegav

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#180 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 29, 2021, 06:37:17 pm


Anyone else find the downclimb quite awkward? I wonder if it's being tall? Mainly just being not that technically proficient  :lol:
Yes. And I’m 5’8. (Not tall)

Fultonius

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#181 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 30, 2021, 09:55:13 am


Anyone else find the downclimb quite awkward? I wonder if it's being tall? Mainly just being not that technically proficient  :lol:
Yes. And I’m 5’8. (Not tall)

I'm always fine on the up climb and the traverse right, but 12-13-14 just sends me into irreversible pump. Fortunately all my projects go up.

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#182 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 30, 2021, 10:14:20 am
Fultonitis I'm tempted to say you need to force more consistent pacing and look at the test results in that scenario. I can't unpick exactly how it's skewing the results but pacing differences of 2x must be doing something.

Also, isn't the rest period supposed to be 1:1 with climbing time at a lap level, not at an attempt level (you say you had a 58s gap between all climbing attempts)?

This may have changed since I last did it, admittedly, but I thought the rest time was supposed to match the climbing time from the previous lap, not the first lap, so should (your wierd pacing aside!) get shorter as your move count decreases.

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#183 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 30, 2021, 11:08:27 am
Fultonitis I'm tempted to say you need to force more consistent pacing and look at the test results in that scenario. I can't unpick exactly how it's skewing the results but pacing differences of 2x must be doing something.

Also, isn't the rest period supposed to be 1:1 with climbing time at a lap level, not at an attempt level (you say you had a 58s gap between all climbing attempts)?

This may have changed since I last did it, admittedly, but I thought the rest time was supposed to match the climbing time from the previous lap, not the first lap, so should (your weird pacing aside!) get shorter as your move count decreases.

Yeah, I'll go again with strict pacing. I'm not sure if it's "changed" or if it's the way my assessor understood it, but when I did it with him he set the rest period as the length of the first rep of the block of 6, and it stayed consistent throughout. I'm generally a fairly fast climber so I need to actively slow down for the test. Either way, weird pacing aside (my lap 2 was 1.30 and third 1.10) I still did the same number of moves...

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#184 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 30, 2021, 11:18:26 am
Yeah, I'll go again with strict pacing. I'm not sure if it's "changed" or if it's the way my assessor understood it, but when I did it with him he set the rest period as the length of the first rep of the block of 6, and it stayed consistent throughout. I'm generally a fairly fast climber so I need to actively slow down for the test. Either way, weird pacing aside (my lap 2 was 1.30 and third 1.10) I still did the same number of moves...

Different time under load and different mix of loaded/unloaded though - your lap 1 was at 40% of max effort in seconds versus 75% in moves, so perhaps it's not surprising you were able to repeat it a few more times before decay set in.

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#185 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 30, 2021, 11:25:39 am
I'm not sure if it's "changed" or if it's the way my assessor understood it, but when I did it with him he set the rest period as the length of the first rep of the block of 6, and it stayed consistent throughout.

It's a long time since I did an assessment, but I don't think I've ever done that... Also I would go to failure every lap apart from the one where you do 75% or 80% or whatever it is. So, IIRC, you might go to failure @ 60 moves, rest however long it is (20 min?), do 45 moves, rest the same as that took, go to failure, rest the same as that took, go to failure, rest the same as that took... Whereas it sounds like you stopped at 45 moves each time? If so it's maybe not surprising that you didn't see a curve because you're never actually failing - I can envision a scenario in which your max is just not that high (e.g. because you've not done much getting pumped for a while) so 75% of max is not that hard for you and if you stop at that point every time instead of going to failure it doesn't build the intended curve. Maybe the protocol changed since back in the day or just this question doesn't come up often because people usually fail earlier, but I'm pretty sure the old version I did involved failure on every rep after that 75% or 80% one. I'm sure Lattice could confirm...

And yeah, if you change pace by 2x then everything will be messed up because like AJM says your first 45 move set will have been far too easy since you were on for about half the intended time...

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#186 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 30, 2021, 01:49:05 pm
Yeah, I'll go again with strict pacing. I'm not sure if it's "changed" or if it's the way my assessor understood it, but when I did it with him he set the rest period as the length of the first rep of the block of 6, and it stayed consistent throughout. I'm generally a fairly fast climber so I need to actively slow down for the test. Either way, weird pacing aside (my lap 2 was 1.30 and third 1.10) I still did the same number of moves...

Different time under load and different mix of loaded/unloaded though - your lap 1 was at 40% of max effort in seconds versus 75% in moves, so perhaps it's not surprising you were able to repeat it a few more times before decay set in.

True. Metronome next time I think!

Alex  - I was aiming to go to failure each lap, but if I did that lap 2 would have been longer than lap 1!  45 was bang on failure for lap 3. I stopped after this as I realised it wasn't going improve my results.

My speed seems to range from 0.4 moves/second at the longest (but I actually struggle to believe that....) when I did 60?? Moves in 150 seconds. This would make a lot more sense if I had miscounted and it was 74 moves - still 0.49 moves/second. I struggle to believe. however, that in my first assessment I was 57 moves to failure, then jumped to 74 this time.... 

Maybe in my official test my rest times were also coming down with my reps?  I wasn't on the clock so that might have been the case.

At least all this re-testing is probably doing some good ancap training :lol:

So, next time:  1. use a metronome and climb at 0.65 moves per second (seems to be roughly my usual average).
2. Film/get a helper to do the counting / timing
3. make each lap in the 6/7 reps the same rest:climb ratio


Paul B

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#187 Re: Using a latticeboard
December 30, 2021, 03:48:03 pm
Instead of a metronome and influencing how you climb can you not just use Shoecamtm and then count afterwards?

Fultonius

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#188 Re: Using a latticeboard
January 06, 2022, 09:27:19 pm
OK, so the feedback from the assessor is "inconclusive". Any Lattice boffins in the house able to elaborate? I've just engaged in a 14 week block of AnCap, so I'm really hoping I'm going for the right thing....

This ^^ and NoaB's mention of Dumbuck got me thinking about my last hard redpoint: https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/174742867 

14 moves in about 1 minute, pure Anearobic Endurance eh?!   

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#189 Re: Using a latticeboard
January 07, 2022, 06:04:46 pm
Great footage!  Enjoyed that  :popcorn:

 

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