Whilst I would hate to dissuade anyone from mocking Barrows for being so tall it's cheating, I do agree with him here Pete. For reference since you've seen me climb lately, I last measured myself on the lattice rung in February (would be similar now) and I need -10kg for each arm. I think it's desperate![/quoteBonkers isn't it.. going purely off comparative finger-strength tests and seeing how close you are on Mecca, I should have sent by now with ease. You've seen me climb - I'm nowhere near yet! (Although I do have to contend with opening jacket zips..)Nai when did the rungs change?
Quote from: reeve on May 22, 2017, 11:13:50 pmWhilst I would hate to dissuade anyone from mocking Barrows for being so tall it's cheating, I do agree with him here Pete. For reference since you've seen me climb lately, I last measured myself on the lattice rung in February (would be similar now) and I need -10kg for each arm. I think it's desperate!Bonkers isn't it.. going purely off comparative finger-strength tests and seeing how close you are on Mecca, I should have sent by now with ease. You've seen me climb - I'm nowhere near yet! (Although I do have to contend with opening jacket zips..)Nai when did the rungs change?
Whilst I would hate to dissuade anyone from mocking Barrows for being so tall it's cheating, I do agree with him here Pete. For reference since you've seen me climb lately, I last measured myself on the lattice rung in February (would be similar now) and I need -10kg for each arm. I think it's desperate!
Nai - I thought the -1kg for Mecca / 8b+ was using the new rung
Quote from: reeve on May 23, 2017, 04:44:25 pmNai - I thought the -1kg for Mecca / 8b+ was using the new rungEngraved on a new rung on a Facebook advertising blurb thing I shared on my profile a while back, so assume so
fair enough. I thought the figures would have come out of their database which would have been built on data from the old rung at that point.
You've got your jacket zips, I've got my jars of honey. We've all got problems Pete!Thinking about it a bit more, I think that the lattice test shows me as being artificially weak (not that I'm naturally strong, far from it). I'm far better crimping than open handed, but as this isn't allowed on the test (and I don't like to dead hang in full-crimp either), I did my -10kg with front 3 open, my weakest grip in real life but strongest for 1-arm dead hanging. I also think that shoulder strength and stability play a bit part in the test, so I wonder if that boosts your test score relative to mine? (I'm making the assumption that your shoulders are stronger than mine - it's an assumption I regularly make about people I don't really know but it tends to turn out correct).Nai - I thought the -1kg for Mecca / 8b+ was using the new rung
I'm glad I bought a Lattice Edge though, it feels good to have references.
Quote from: Nibile on May 24, 2017, 11:18:20 amI'm glad I bought a Lattice Edge though, it feels good to have references.Likewise, Im glad I use a home made edge so I can drift along on a wave of delusion
Also (again, if I remember correctly) he says having the finger strength to hang 70kg from the rung (body weight plus added weight is sufficient to climb 9a (with enough endurance I guess).
100% body weight for 5 seconds relates to 8b+ and 8A I believe, so you're looking good for Mecca. I am in the camp for piss week for the grade I climb but I obviously there's a huge difference to stamina plodding in Spain to your average route at the Tor!
Quote from: haydn jones on February 08, 2017, 08:53:51 am2nd rep i would imagine. I understand the question now....did you manage to get more than 75% on your third rep? If you did then that means ypu aerobic capacity is high i think....but you would have to ask tom i suspect to know for sureNo, didn't manage more than the 75% on my 3rd rep.My scores:Weight 66kg (I'm heavier over winter, normally 62kg redpointing weight).1-arm 5 seconds hang on the lattice rung: 0.5 kg assistance on LH, 0.75kg assistance on RH. So 99% of body weight held.1st rep: 812nd rep: 61 (75% of rep 1)3rd rep: 52 - so an aerocap score of 65%??? 4th rep: 31 5th rep: 22 6th rep: 207th rep: 15 - ancap score of 19%???First time trying the lattice board so I could get slicker with the sequence. Not far off what I expected - strength not bad, although I'd half expected to be able to hang the edge with no assistance. My aero is generally shite as baseline but responds quickly and is easy to improve. Haven't done any real endurance training in the last year so expected to suffer on the fitnesses.
2nd rep i would imagine. I understand the question now....did you manage to get more than 75% on your third rep? If you did then that means ypu aerobic capacity is high i think....but you would have to ask tom i suspect to know for sure
my home edge says -2kg = f8b)
Quote from: Ally Smith on March 08, 2018, 02:02:13 pm my home edge says -2kg = f8b)Strict forced half-crimp or natural draggy-half-crimp? There's no way the former is 8b for -2kg for people of our size! (Or the latter for that matter IMO, although the stats may claim differently)
Given your earlier postings about an-cap training on the board, i'm surprised to see the low score for rep 7. (It might even have gone lower if you'd done a couple of extra sets until the scores leveled out?)86 moves = 8b/+ borderline for a euro stamina route?Finger-strength, 'bout the same grade (less sure on this comparison in percent terms - my home edge says -2kg = f8b)21% an-cap is pretty low for a power sapping LPT or Tor route; maybe keep your focus on an-cap a bit longer, tailoring it to longer efforts; 15+ moves? If you're off to Oliana or Rodellar, then it's pretty good...
So, as I say, I fail to understand how the 7th rep is a measure of AnCap