[TobyD]

Mon: evening route session
Tue evening route session
Wed run
Thu big route session
Fri easy routes
Sat yoga, routes
Sun Turbo session x 2. 20 routes as wrist rehab

Wrist sore. Climbing is in bad shape. Booked a flight to Majorca for a road cycling holiday! :-) Did some core training at home as well, which was fun.

[nai]

2017 goals - 8a/+ redpoints, 7c onsight, E5 OS, E6 HP, 7C.

Mon -
AM - Yoga class. Dismayed to hear we'd be taking it easy but turned out to be pretty hard at times.
PM - FB base session 1 (about same as session 6 of previous block)

Tue -
AM - garage bouldering, moving holds around and setting.  Set a cool new finish for AnCap circuit
        shoulder weights/rehab

PM  HI AeroCap - bafflingly I've suddenly gone quickly backward on this

Eve - 30 mins home yoga

Wed - nowt

Thu -
AM - Foundry.  Arrived to find Furnace closed so couldn't do AeroPow on autobelays 
Bouldered to work out suitable problems for 2nd AeroPow sessions starting next week. About 10 level 2s.
Found a partner for routes and was handed a complete spanking.  Good to know where I'm at though.
Straight from Foundry to massage which was the most painful yet.  Won't be training beforehand again. Yet more corrective exercises to build into the week

Home yoga eve. Deep stretch relaxation.

Fri -
AM -4x10 mins LI AeroCap. 5x6b+, 5x6b+, 5x6c, 6x5+
Eve - 40 mins Home yoga
shoulder correction.

Sat - just the new daily LI shoulder correction stuff.

Sun
AM -
Took all the big footholds off my board. 
Tried my new AnCap circuit.
Put some new footholds back on...

FB base session 2. Improvement on last time.

PM - shoulder weights workout.

[Muenchener]

STG: Re-plan spring sport targets given Spain climbing partner fail.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M:
T:   Boulderwelt with M jnr. A token attempt at a once a week strength maintenance session while I'm mainly working endurance. Not much strength in evidence though unfortunately.
W: Half an hour shoulder rehab
T: Beastmaker max hangs - more successful attempt at a strength maintenance session.
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. A dozen routes up to around onsight (6b+) level plus some practice falls. Good session with a mate I haven't seen since September.
S: Boulderwelt with M jnr & friend. Mostly coaching / encouraging /spotting the kids youth, but also made a few moves progress on a couple of projects, surprisingly. I was expecting to be more tired from yesterday; endurance & stamina appear to be improving yyfy. Rounded off with 20 minutes of one on, one off on the circuit board as recommended in Tom'n'Ollie's latest movie. Surprisingly exhausting overall even though I wasn't getting pumped on the individual rounds. (I wasn't supposed to be was I?)

[nai]

Rounded off with 20 minutes of one on, one off on the circuit board as recommended in Tom'n'Ollie's latest movie. Surprisingly exhausting overall even though I wasn't getting pumped on the individual rounds. (I wasn't supposed to be was I?)

You're supposed to end up pumped but not to failure, kind of in the moderate-high zone.
From memory the acid-test is that if you were to repeat your circuit 3 times in a row you'd be completely boxed. 

[Dolly]

M Wave at lunchtime where I spent most of the time trying and failing to do the crux of the black at the right hand side. A few level 2s then I jumped off from about a foot high at the end and my back went into spasm. I'm usually very carfeful about this and I always downclimb. Twat. Started the high strength prescription codeine
T Lots of codeine and found some great stretches on drlumbago.com (really) which helped massively. Did lots of them taking a long time.
W more codeine and stretching and managed to do 10 easy routes toproped at the gym in poor style as I didnt want to stretch too much
T No codeine.  More stretching and did an hour in the shed in the evening for a bit of power.
F
S Quick Burbage North hit. A lot of it was wet or to hot. I wanted to do In Plain sight but the top was wet
S Kettlebells and core stuff at the gym. Bit of Bulgarian at the end, even some rope juggling (or whatever its called) stuff


Day 15 of Dry January. I haven't weighed myself but I know I've lost weight. Not a great week after last week, but at least I'm climbing again.

[tomtom]

Hope the back gets better Dolly mine is restricting my climbing frequency at the moment...

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder okish. Middle finger LH seems to be a collateral tweak, had almost 2 weeks off now (2nd enforced through illness) mummified it and climbed today, seemed ok.
Sleep: loads of time in bed, but up a lot coughing etc.

M: nowt, ill. (6~hrs)
T: nowt, ill, off work.  (~6hrs)
W: nowt, ill. (~4hrs)
T: nowt, ill, shouldn't have gone to work. (~9hrs)
F: nowt, ill, off work. Feeling slightly better. (~8hrs)
S: nowt, ill, did cbt though. Felt ruined in eve, bailed home early from dinner. (~8 hrs)
S: still fucking ill, mostly cough now. Went to wall to chat and revise for bike theory, couldn't bear it any longer and ended up going round the blues from yesterday's comp, think dropped 12 pts, 8 of which were from a stupid mistake when I kicked my hand off. Finger seemed ok, so pretty happy with that, especially considering the state I'm in. (~7 hrs)

Still got the cough now, and being constantly run down means I've acquired a most attractive coldsore. Generally fucked off with the whole business. Light though!

67kg. (but prob not in a good way)

[TobyD]

"Furnace closed so couldn't do AeroPow on autobelays":

Ian what protocol do you use to do this?

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Knee raises
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
50 Crunches

Eve: Cold water treatment on both hands - 20mins
(~7.5hrs)

T: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms, 1 min between reps
Pinch strength seems completely equal on both arms as all max efforts were identical...strange
R1: 10s - 10kg
R2: 10s - 15kg
R3: 10s - 17.5kg
R4: 10s - 17.5kg
R5: 10s - 18.5kg
R6: 10s - 19kg
R7: 7s - 20kg

Eve - Plas Power - 3 x 5 min on 5 min off LI-AeroCap

Deadhangs - ~25mm edge
2 mins between hangs
5 x 10 sec Open hand
2 x 8 sec Half crimp

15 mins limit bouldering on pinches and slopers

AnCap - 8 reps x 15 moves (3 mins rest between reps, 2 mins rest before rep 8 )
Powered out on move 11 of rep 8, need to make the circuit slightly harder next time
(~7.5hrs)

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
2 x 10 Widescreen wipers
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
2 x 10 Widescreen wipers
50 Crunches (+5kg)

Eve: Cold water treatment on both hands - 20mins
(~7.5hrs)

T: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms, 1 min between reps
R1: 10s - 12.5kg
R2: 10s - 15kg
R3: 10s - 17.5kg
R4: 10s - 19kg
R5: 10s - 20kg
R6: 10s - 20kg
R7: 10s - 20kg

Eve: Drove most of the way to the wall but snow too bad in the car, drove home, doned some wellies and ran 2 miles to Plas Power.

3 x 5 mins on 5 min off LI-AeroCap

Deadhangs - ~25mm edge
2 mins between hangs
3 x 10 sec Open hand
Half Crimp - 7s, 10s, 8s

Limit bouldering on slopers and pinches for 20 mins.

AeroPow - 30 moves (~80s) x 8 reps (80s rest between reps)
Had to tweak the circuit "on the fly" to get the intensity right, basicly all on jugs on the circuit board. Got a good circuit for next time. Need to slow down too.

2 mile walk home.
(~6hrs)

F: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
50 Crunches (+5kg)
(~7hrs)

S: Rest - (~6hrs)

S: Deadhangs - 15 min warm up on random hangs
1. 20mm Edge (3 Finger open hand) - 3 x 7s on, 53s off
2. 30' slopers - 3 x 7s on, 53s off (-2.5kg)
3. 30mm edge (Half crimp) - 3 x 7s on, 53s off
3 mins rest between sets

Eccentrics: Palms-Up Curls - 3 x 15 (8kg), Pronator Teres - 3 x 15 (2kg)
(~5.5hrs)

[James Malloch]

STG: Keep up with finger physio and set training plan up for the next 3 months (plus keep to it).

MTG: Get reacquainted with the Yorkshire Limestone this spring/summer. Go for volume rather than projects and try to tick off as many 7a/b at various crags. Once finger is better do some benchmarking and tailor training based on results.

LTG (4 years): The Groove at Malham.



Mon 9th: Went for a run and did some stretching. Run was only 3k but I'm slowly getting back into it following injury last year. First one for a while without any pain but it was slow (5:50/km). Would love to get back to a c.20m 5k this year but I doubt it'll happen unfortunately. Lots of stretching after this which need to do more regularly.

Tue 10th: Evening at Leeds Wall with the Leeds Mountaineering Club. Really nice bunch of people and I'm looking forward to getting involved with them this year. The aim of this session (as well as climbing) was to test my finger out ahead of a Physio session the following day. I confirmed crimping hurts and sensibly avoided all but the nicest. Did quite a few steep routes which I was happy with, noting too hard (up to 6c+). Good to keep up a bit of stamina on that terrain whilst being on finger friendly holds.

Wed 11th: Had a physio session with a finger specialist in North Leeds. I was a little apprehensive at first but it was a hugely positive hour. Largely good news as my pulleys seem to be operating okay which is what I thought was the problem.

I've some swelling above and below my PIP joint which she believed was actually scar tissue build up which is in turn causing abrasion and pain to my FDS tendon where it joins above the PIP joint, and where the FDP tendon passes through it.

The treatment is a number of isolation exercises to target those areas to try and break down the tissue and stretch/strengthen the FDS/FDP tendons. Hopefully it does the trick.

Thur 12th: Yoga class in the evening.

Fri 13th: Few glasses of wine.

Sat 14th: Day out walking in the lakes. Up Coniston old man and along the tops. Lovely day with great views. Need to get fitter for steep walking!!!

Sun 15th: Day of visiting family and some DIY bits.



Again, not a great week climbing wise with only one session but I'm pleased to have a professional diagnosis for my finger which should hopefully start to get better over the next 4 weeks before my follow-up appointment. I'm off to the depot tonight and Leeds wall tomorrow so it'll be interesting to see how it goes. Whilst I'm only 5 days into the exercises I've been doing them 5-6 times a day and it's feeling a little better / less sore already. Probably a placebo but who knows.

Hopefully the next few days will give me an idea of where I'm at and I can start to train again in the next week or two. Got a holiday that will involve a few days of climbing in 2 months so it would nice to be in okay form for that.

[36chambers]

STG: board campaign. mod Yorkshire classics.
MTG: hard Yorkshire classics
LTG: 8B

M:
T: 30 board. Making up some good new projects. Although struggling to find something that takes more than two sessions. Reasonable session.
W: core and deadlifts
T: 50 board. Finished off some moderates I've been trying, good progress on some of the harder stuff. Good session.
F:
S: Barden Fell. Big day out with clear blue skies. Didn't try anything hard/new.
S: 50 board. Achey shoulders/back from (carrying pads? on) Saturday. Mainly trying hard 1-4 move sequences on new holds. Okay session.

[Coops_13]

Achey shoulders/back from (carrying pads? on) Saturday.

Pansy

[T_B]

M - Foundry lunch. Recovery (general moving around)
T - Max hangs. 5 x 10 secs half crimp +25kg. Didn't do middle two as still tired from weekend. P.M. Run.
W - rest!
T - Lattice. 88, then 20 mins rest, 66, 66, 31 with rest periods same as climbing time. Apparently I have good AnCap achieving 75% of initial rep on 3rd rep. P.M. Ran home.
F - A.M. Ran to work. Lunch - a few autobelays up to 7a.
S - wimped out of climbing outside. P.M. 1-hr homeboard bouldering.
S - Works comp wall. 2.5hrs. Beasted.

[Coops_13]

STG: Fix elbow, get fit and strong
MTG: More 7B+
LTG: 8A

M: Squash, beat housemate
T: Wall, good session considering amount of time off
W: 5-a-side footie, knackered
T: Wall, average session
F: Drive North
S: Barden Fell with 36C, glorious weather. Galaxy 3rd go (have tried it before):

Got close on Mcnab but bitterly cold by the time I was trying that.
S: Wet. Drove down to Stoney, tried Slopey Sidepull and Lucian's Undercut. Was a bit damp and not the sticky kind so called it a day and drove home.

Elbow a bit tweaky but not too bad. Physio booked for 27th and then I'm off for three weeks on a diving trip so hopefully will have some good rehab to do then.

[Palomides]

M: Bike commute, plus first go on freshly installed home Beastmaker1000, following "5A" routine from phone app. Bit surprised that the latest version of the app has 2 sets as default (each set being 7 reps of 6 hold types). Nearly managed to finish it but failed on 2-finger hangs on 2nd set. This is brilliant as it gives huge room for improvement, without being stupidly hard.
T: V short bouldering session at village wall to see how arms felt after BM. Ok, despite trembly triceps.
W: Bike commute, added screws to BM mounting board to remove worrying flex.
T: BM 5A - only one set as failed on 2-finger hangs. Probably not recovered from first go so decided to be sensible
F: Lunch session at wall. Warmed up on bouldering wall then did a few laps on autobelays. Pumped on easy routes.
S: V easy run with reluctant daughter. Nice to be out.
S: Local bouldering comp. First time it's been held by a new club in the area so went along to see their wall and support the initiative - good fun, "contest" format. Did 38 out of 45 problems

Good week. Knee still limiting for certain moves, RH tendons aching a bit, probably from BM 2-finger pockets plus comp) so will ease of a bit this week.

[nik at work]

Went to wall to chat and revise for bike theory,

Sounds similar to my revision tactics, good luck with it (you'll piss it)

[petejh]

STG: Secret winter goal - first need a winter. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), G.Orme, Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop routes at Mega Crag X. (spring-summer). Send proj on L.Orme. (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week in Cogne, introducing my gf to ice-climbing for the first time.

M. Valnontey. Climbed Acheronte. Gf's first ever ice climb, got 250 metres up the 300m route. Slow descent due to 50m ropes being too short on a couple of the abseils. A good 'in at the deep end' experience for her, hard work for me.
T. Vallielle in the morning to do El Tutto Relativo. Cascade de Lillaz first pitch in the afternoon, funky conditions, great fun.
W. Finished the rest of Cascade Lillaz. Could climb this route every year and never get bored.
T. Moline mixed crag in the morning, did a couple of laps on the middle mixed line (pic). Drove over to Valsavaranche in the afternoon, went to the Haston Cave to pay homage to the legend! Did a couple of short mixed lines not on the topo. Heavy snow all night.
F. Drove down to Gressoney valley to search for safe routes after the dump of snow. Waded in balls deep powder almost to the start of Cascata Della Ciampa then turned around. Tried a couple of the mixed routes at Lysbalma but the ice wasn't in. Unproductive day but good to see a new valley with lots of cool lines.
S. Flew home from Milan.
S. Fingerboard. 6 x 10secs with 14Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k slots (20mm).

A brill week that's got me fired up for more euro mixed and ice. Always a tough choice in winter for me whether to train for rock, go bouldering, go to Scotland mixed climbing, or go euro mixed climbing. First world problem.

[nai]

Apparently I have good AnCap achieving 75% of initial rep on 3rd rep.

According to my assessment feedback that rep tells you your AeroCap and the final (5th?) rep of that block gives your AnCap?  AnCap score should be somewhere around 30% iiirc.

[filz]

W. Finished the rest of Cascade Lillaz. Could climb this route every year and never get bored.

Really nice one. I think I climbed it in 2000 probably... Getting old

[filz]

STG: structured training
MTG: climb stuff

M: little time, so.. dumbbell complex (cleans, press, squat) x8. deadlifts 5x10
T: board climbing
W: push ups, tuck planche, L-sits
T: fb. weighted hangs
F-S: Moving stuff around
S: board climbing with friends. Fun and hard session.

[nai]

"Furnace closed so couldn't do AeroPow on autobelays":

Ian what protocol do you use to do this?

Sorry I missed you on Thursday, Toby. Meant to come say hello properly then was suddenly running late.

It's a base phase exercise so higher volume at a relatively low grade, basically double laps of something just below onsight grade with 10-15 mins between sets.  Routes in there suit me though so I might try adding a third rep in to get the move count and pump rate up.

[T_B]

Apparently I have good AnCap achieving 75% of initial rep on 3rd rep.

According to my assessment feedback that rep tells you your AeroCap and the final (5th?) rep of that block gives your AnCap?  AnCap score should be somewhere around 30% iiirc.

Yes I noted Shark said the same in a previous post. It's not what others who've been tested have said though and would seem counterintuitive (I'm not very fit but PE has always been a natural strength).

[StillTryingForTheTop]

Same for me, Aero Cap

"An indicator of good aerobic capacity is being able to beat your 75% on your second attempt." was what my assessment said

I, did not....

You say you beat yours on your 3rd rep, so there might be something different there.

Surprised there is not a specific Lattice thread on here or UKC

Apparently I have good AnCap achieving 75% of initial rep on 3rd rep.

According to my assessment feedback that rep tells you your AeroCap and the final (5th?) rep of that block gives your AnCap?  AnCap score should be somewhere around 30% iiirc.

Yes I noted Shark said the same in a previous post. It's not what others who've been tested have said though and would seem counterintuitive (I'm not very fit but PE has always been a natural strength).

[T_B]

I wasn't trying to beat it on my 2nd attempt. I was just trying to do 75% of max on my second and subsequent attempts (rest period same as climbing time). Clearly something has been lost in translation.

[Duma]

Went to wall to chat and revise for bike theory,

Sounds similar to my revision tactics, good luck with it (you'll piss it)

Cheers Nik

[StillTryingForTheTop]

Ah, we are talking the same attempt then

I did the max moves test, then had a break

then I did the first rep of this test and was told to stop at a point (which turned out to be 75% of my max moves score)

the comment from them was in relation to my second attempt of this test, where the ideal would have been to beat the first go, these are goes 1 and 2 on the lactate curve graph

I wasn't trying to beat it on my 2nd attempt. I was just trying to do 75% of max on my second and subsequent attempts (rest period same as climbing time). Clearly something has been lost in translation.

[fried]

M-W - In bed with a nasty cold. Drink whisky to cheer myself up
Th - Indoors, played on some of the new traverses, my wall hasn't set these before. In the vening I'd done something to my shoulder repeatedly dropping down onto 2 finger pockets
Fr - Rest
Sa - Rest, although did my hour of walking on both days, did a short bm session, more to see how the shoulder was than anything else. Walked a lot
Su - Indoors, OK, shoulder not perfect, took it easy, I'll see how it is this week and adapt as I see fit.

Outdoors seems so far away.

[webbo]

Mon. Waiting for hire to be delivered all morning. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board did 2 problems I been trying last week, tried a couple of other things.
Thu. Board did my project first go 5th session on it. Tried a few other things, then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off 3 sets with 36.5 lbs added. Bike 23.31 miles 1 hr 26 mins.
Fri. Turbo 1 hr.
Sat. Spent all morning digging up a tree stump. Board did a couple of new things and tried a few projects.
Sun. Bike32.09 miles1 hr 55 mins

[Doylo]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Knee raises
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
50 Crunches

Eve: Cold water treatment on both hands - 20mins
(~7.5hrs)

T: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms, 1 min between reps
Pinch strength seems completely equal on both arms as all max efforts were identical...strange
R1: 10s - 10kg
R2: 10s - 15kg
R3: 10s - 17.5kg
R4: 10s - 17.5kg
R5: 10s - 18.5kg
R6: 10s - 19kg
R7: 7s - 20kg

Eve - Plas Power - 3 x 5 min on 5 min off LI-AeroCap

Deadhangs - ~25mm edge
2 mins between hangs
5 x 10 sec Open hand
2 x 8 sec Half crimp

15 mins limit bouldering on pinches and slopers

AnCap - 8 reps x 15 moves (3 mins rest between reps, 2 mins rest before rep 8 )
Powered out on move 11 of rep 8, need to make the circuit slightly harder next time
(~7.5hrs)

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
2 x 10 Widescreen wipers
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
2 x 10 Widescreen wipers
50 Crunches (+5kg)

Eve: Cold water treatment on both hands - 20mins
(~7.5hrs)

T: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms, 1 min between reps
R1: 10s - 12.5kg
R2: 10s - 15kg
R3: 10s - 17.5kg
R4: 10s - 19kg
R5: 10s - 20kg
R6: 10s - 20kg
R7: 10s - 20kg

Eve: Drove most of the way to the wall but snow too bad in the car, drove home, doned some wellies and ran 2 miles to Plas Power.

3 x 5 mins on 5 min off LI-AeroCap

Deadhangs - ~25mm edge
2 mins between hangs
3 x 10 sec Open hand
Half Crimp - 7s, 10s, 8s

Limit bouldering on slopers and pinches for 20 mins.

AeroPow - 30 moves (~80s) x 8 reps (80s rest between reps)
Had to tweak the circuit "on the fly" to get the intensity right, basicly all on jugs on the circuit board. Got a good circuit for next time. Need to slow down too.

2 mile walk home.
(~6hrs)

F: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
50 Crunches (+5kg)
(~7hrs)

S: Rest - (~6hrs)

S: Deadhangs - 15 min warm up on random hangs
1. 20mm Edge (3 Finger open hand) - 3 x 7s on, 53s off
2. 30' slopers - 3 x 7s on, 53s off (-2.5kg)
3. 30mm edge (Half crimp) - 3 x 7s on, 53s off
3 mins rest between sets

Eccentrics: Palms-Up Curls - 3 x 15 (8kg), Pronator Teres - 3 x 15 (2kg)
(~5.5hrs)

Go ed Patxi

[measles23]

M: Sharkathon 30min exercise bike
T: 1st session on real rock since breaking my leg 2 months ago - rubicon in v windy but otherwise perfect connies - very deflating session that was quite different to how it was supposed to be in my demented fanatasies, where I was going to float up 8Bs on my new Bulgarian fingers! Under time pressure which didn't help - warm ups felt good, but I just couldn't find anything on Kudos wall that would succumb to right foot only climbing - there were just a few glimpses of my new finger strength level; I could chalk up on the Press but couldn't engage foot for the last flick to jug, nearly repeated Johnny G despite it being on the wrong foot, fingers certainly feel crimp-hungry but just couldn't find the right problem or even individual move to test them on...
BM2k small rungs open crimp max hang session - aborted after warm-ups as mojo now thoroughly gone
W: Nowt
T: BM2k small rungs full crimp max hangs - again aborted after warm-ups - where the fuck is my mojo
F: nowt
S: nowt
S: Stoke AW kids club - 1.5hrs problems up to V4; scared myself and Alison by peeling off from the top of a comp problem but my brain is hard wired to avoid landing on the leg now - retired to the sanctuary of the moonboard. Weight vest session on a problem I've designed to be leg-friendly- felt good.
4 sets campus board 4 to 1 drop downs with 5kg in vest - felt good.
7 sets per side 1-armers; only trying for singles but nice quality with deep locks, and lifted +5kg on my left..
3 sets dips
BM2k small rung 1/2 crimp 5sets up to +20x10s

No specific high performance but felt generally strong on Sunday so mojo somewhat returned; just gonna have to accept I'm not going to be doing problems for some months yet- will have to do some more fingerboarding; strategy is strength cycling by dropping weight for 10s lifts for a period, followed by 8s lifts then finally back to 5s, mimicking what worked so well for me in DL

[the_dom]

Putting some goals in place..

STG: 7B
MTG: 7C and ticking off some of the lower-hanging fruit on my bucket (tick-)list
LTG: 8A again, and the bucket (tick-)list ticked off

Mon: 90 mins of bouldering. Moving better and better, although the shoulder still hurts post-climbing.

Tues: Lunchtime deadlifts - slowly building this back up using Wendler's 5/3/1 protocol for DLs. Afternoon 30+ mins of bodyweight met-con. Meaningful discussion about our ife and the future with wife over too much wine...

Wed: Couldn't sleep post-discussion. Woke up at 3am and by 5am decided to go to gym to walk on the treadmill. 30 mins hard march. Broken by evening, so cooked a big curry and drank wine.

Thurs: Lunchtime deadlifts and PM climbing. Both good sessions.

Fri: More trouble sleeping, more treadmill marching in the AM. 40 mins this time. Went out and got drunk with an old friend in the evening. Followed that with irresponsible eating.

Sat: Bouldering and deadlifts. Decent session.

Sun: Bodyweight met-con.

Not the worst week in terms of training, but drank too much wine throughout, and ate terribly on Friday. Might have convinced the wife that a trip to the Grit in March is a good idea, which would give me an opportunity to get back on some old nemeses currently residing on the bucket (tick-)list.

[shark]

11.3-5

M.
T.
W. PM AnCap session on systems board
T.
F.  Burbage to meet and boulder with TT and Jim. Tried BD but was more of a social and to get outside. Eve Good fingerboard repeater session (drags)
S. PM AnCap session on systems board. Went well. 2 sets.
S  PM Some bouldering down the Foundry. Busy. Paul made me test a problem on the lattice board for the comp which he was going to name "Too hard for Sharkey" except I flashed it and nobody else did. Late eve. Fingerboard repeater session (crimps)

First week at work. Lots of travel. Lots to take in and think about. Required much more effort to pull my finger out and train. Friday regained significance. Going to keep at the AnCap, bouldering and finger board till the end of the month then retest myself on the lattice board with Paul     

[nai]

Going to keep at the AnCap, bouldering and finger board

And AeroCap of course?

It should be noted that increasing your anaerobic capacity thus increases your ability to produce lactate, meaning that it is essential to do sufficient aerobic capacity work whilst working on this energy system (and aerobic power work afterwards), or your body won’t be able to cope with this new ability and you’ll quickly find yourself very, very pumped. This is a rare example of ‘more is not always better’ – a high anaerobic capacity with the aerobic components underdeveloped will lead to really bad performance on routes.

bottom of page 3

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-40C59n2E_4aVRyYjY5U1Rtc2c/edit

I can confirm from experience that neglecting AeroCap while hammering AnCap really does totally mess things up.

[lagerstarfish]

Paul made me test a problem on the lattice board for the comp which he was going to name "Too hard for Sharkey" except I flashed it and nobody else did.

beautiful

 

[Murph]

Goals
Do-able - Grit & Lime 7s
Far-fetched - Lime 8A

M-Very little. Slammed by life.
T-Shoulder pre/re hab. Works session. Wasn't feeling it couldn't get in the groove. Combination of injuries and fatigue.
W-Shoulder pre/re.
T-Works. Mileage session. Reds and greens then all the irn brus. All except the hard one. Shoulders.
F-Shoulders. Elastic band legs.
S-Shoulders. Felt well enough to do shrugs again. Felt ok if I did them right. It's a tricky thing tho.
S-Works. Mileage. All pinkles. Thirty blacks and the hard irn bru. All irn brus done now get in!/s

Weight - the 1 year old broke my scales on Saturday so will have to get them replaced. Without daily weigh ins I am adrift at sea, rudderless. Still keeping a lid on what goes in gob.

Podcast - no podcast this week!! But did watch Neil Gresham masterclass on YouTube. I must be the only 7B climber who, until v recently, found out that it's important to use your toes, not the ball of your foot. And something about straight arms bent legs and centre of gravity. V worthwhile watch.

Stay psyched everyone.

[shark]

Going to keep at the AnCap, bouldering and finger board

And AeroCap of course?

It should be noted that increasing your anaerobic capacity thus increases your ability to produce lactate, meaning that it is essential to do sufficient aerobic capacity work whilst working on this energy system (and aerobic power work afterwards), or your body won’t be able to cope with this new ability and you’ll quickly find yourself very, very pumped. This is a rare example of ‘more is not always better’ – a high anaerobic capacity with the aerobic components underdeveloped will lead to really bad performance on routes.

bottom of page 3

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-40C59n2E_4aVRyYjY5U1Rtc2c/edit

I can confirm from experience that neglecting AeroCap while hammering AnCap really does totally mess things up.

Given my lattice results classed my performance as (relatively) "excellent" for aerobic efficiency I thought this is something that could give in a busy week but I will make more of an effort to include it if you think it really is that important.

[Nibile]

Mon - dumbbell thruster 10x5; trap shrugs 10x10 51 kg; waiter carry. Very tired.
Tue - rest. Walked a lot.
Wed - BM back3; dumbbell comlex static, very hard. Trap shrugs static 10"x3x2. Tired. Glassy fingers on BM.
Thu - light weights warmup; climbing class.
Fri - hill sprints x3; boxing bag. In sub zero temps, awesome psyche.
Sat - system static, 1xfull crimp, 4xhalf crimp + 8 kg, brilliant. 20' aerocap or whatever it's called. Neck training. Boxing bag, speed. AHH, THE JOYS OF TRAINING IN THE WEEKEND. Plenty of time, great session, great.
Sun - board climbing at Filz's board version 2.0. Hard. Tired.

[nai]

Given my lattice results classed my performance as (relatively) "excellent" for aerobic efficiency I thought this is something that could give in a busy week but I will make more of an effort to include it if you think it really is that important.

I really don't know but my AeroCap score beat yours (only by 1 rep but a win's a win , right ) and they still gave me sessions to do.  With your fingerboarding being Repeaters at the moment you're effectively doing four AnCap/AnCappy routines a week so (having been stung before) I'd be wary of the potential risk.

Could you fit this in.

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/lattice-training-the-20-minute-endurance-boost/605825

[James Malloch]

11.3-5

M.
T.
W. PM AnCap session on systems board
T.
F.  Burbage to meet and boulder with TT and Jim. Tried BD but was more of a social and to get outside. Eve Good fingerboard repeater session (drags)
S. PM AnCap session on systems board. Went well. 2 sets.
S  PM Some bouldering down the Foundry. Busy. Paul made me test a problem on the lattice board for the comp which he was going to name "Too hard for Sharkey" except I flashed it and nobody else did. Late eve. Fingerboard repeater session (crimps)

First week at work. Lots of travel. Lots to take in and think about. Required much more effort to pull my finger out and train. Friday regained significance. Going to keep at the AnCap, bouldering and finger board till the end of the month then retest myself on the lattice board with Paul   

Off topic, but I remember you used to do a lot of dead hangs and saw good gains from them. I remember the format you used, but I'm interested in grip types. Did you ever perform them in an open handed manner (front 3) or did you use a half-crimp or similar?

Essentially I'd like to try and build my finger strength up following an injury but want to concentrate on open handing for a month before attempting any half crimps again. Managed my first session without any pain yesterday (YYFY) but I think a month of open hand work would be beneficial anyway.

Not sure if dead hangs are the best way to approach this so I'd be interested to hear your (and anyone else's) opinion.

[psborland]

Hello !
I've read  'What is Power Club'  being brave and joining in, hope that's OK. I'm mainly a route climber but like a bit of winter grit .

STG-
Be more consistent with strength and conditioning practice and HIT
Improve Grit bouldering
Understand energy systems training better.
lose 2kg reduce body fat


MTG (2017)
Finish open (route) projects ('Secret Gudgeon society' embankment & 'I punched Judy first' Dinbren )
5 more  7b & b+ redpoints
Get back to the Orme more.
Redpoint 1st 7c by end of 2017

LTG:
 To be a confident and consistent 7c climber.

So -- W/C sun 8/1/17

Sun- Volume bouldering BBC (Birmingham Boulder Centre) Pink reset (V3-V5). Try all problems max 3goes. Did all but 3 problems. 3 hrs
Mon- BBC planned 4x4s but got sucked into freshly reset blue problems that were harder than normal. 3hrs
Tue: Core ( 20 situp, side planks & press-ups warm up; climbflow routine. L sits & spiderman press-ups/planks)
Wed: – BBC limit bouldering plus look for potential ancap problems. 2.5 hrs
Thur: rest
Fri: abandoned plan for grit due to snow. HIT + strength work Kettlebell swings 4 x 15 @ 24Kg re-start deadlifts @ 80 Kg
Sat: rest- bear crawls, light stretching and shoulder work with bands. Several hours getting my head around energy system training & subsequently planning Jan-Feb based on Alex Barrows pdf.

: Into next weeks post I know, but hoping for some guidance. Sunday I tried to put together an anaerobic  capacity set :
 two v4s close together 6 and 7 moves each. climbed first then down a v2 and back up the second. this took about 50 seconds so rested 3 minutes. Repeated 4 times. However on 3rd & 4th rep was not really completing the  second problem (fingers opening )
Then rested 10 minutes and repeated with about the same result.

Firstly is this about the correct protocol  secondly, if it is should i go easier/ shorter /longer rest or just persevere until i can complete the reps and sets as I have planned.

I haven't done any assessments but have been solely bouldering fora good 2 months now so am assuming my endurance is shot . As such I'm planning on ancap and aerocap work in about 2 to 1 ratio for 6 weeks with some general bouldering and strength work. That's my understanding of Alex Barrows base phase ?? Am I on the right track ? Maybe more aero cap ?

Thanks for any advice, looking forward to contributing in Power Club (sorry its late)

[Sasquatch]

So after having some conversations w friends/getting feedback on relative str/weakness and having several niggles to deal with, I am re-embarking on a planned training program.  We discovered that my static core and pull strength are very weak.  Thus leading me to climb extremely dynamically.  Basically if I can't generate from my legs, I struggle for any real motion. I also instantly start moving down if I release a hand... Virtually no lock off strength. 

M- 2 hr snow bike, Boulder at local wall.  Worked a cave problem that requires hard lockoff on decent holds and often one foot.  I couldn't do over half the moves... Compared to everyone else, this was a massive highlight of my weaknesses. 
T-rest
W-FB MAW, Static Boulders, Wtd PU's, DL, TRX
T- cardio, rehab and preventative work
F-Moonboard - 15xStatic Problems, then worked project moves. 
S-cardio, rehab and preventative work
S-Moonboard - 15xStatic Problems, then 5 harder lines.  One-Arm Hangs and Locks. TRX

[Sasquatch]

Hello !
I've read  'What is Power Club'  being brave and joining in, hope that's OK. I'm mainly a route climber but like a bit of winter grit .

Welcome!

STG-
Be more consistent with strength and conditioning practice and HIT
Improve Grit bouldering
Understand energy systems training better.
lose 2kg reduce body fat


MTG (2017)
Finish open (route) projects ('Secret Gudgeon society' embankment & 'I punched Judy first' Dinbren )
5 more  7b & b+ redpoints
Get back to the Orme more.
Redpoint 1st 7c by end of 2017

I haven't done any assessments but have been solely bouldering fora good 2 months now so am assuming my endurance is shot . As such I'm planning on ancap and aerocap work in about 2 to 1 ratio for 6 weeks with some general bouldering and strength work. That's my understanding of Alex Barrows base phase ?? Am I on the right track ? Maybe more aero cap ?

Thanks for any advice, looking forward to contributing in Power Club (sorry its late)

It sounds like ~v4 is about your flash/onsight level for bouldering, so I would think that's a good level for your Ancap work. 50 Sec is also about right, but I haven't done any ancap in a while. 

[Luke Owens]

'I punched Judy first' Dinbren

Welcome! Good route that one!

: Into next weeks post I know, but hoping for some guidance. Sunday I tried to put together an anaerobic  capacity set :
 two v4s close together 6 and 7 moves each. climbed first then down a v2 and back up the second. this took about 50 seconds so rested 3 minutes. Repeated 4 times. However on 3rd & 4th rep was not really completing the  second problem (fingers opening )
Then rested 10 minutes and repeated with about the same result.

Firstly is this about the correct protocol  secondly, if it is should i go easier/ shorter /longer rest or just persevere until i can complete the reps and sets as I have planned.

For AnCap you're looking at 12 - 15 moves aiming to power out on 20% of reps. If you're looking to do Dinbren style routes you'd be better off doing the shorter end; 12 moves and resting twice the climbing time.

You can either do 8 - 12 reps or 2 blocks of 4 reps with 10 mins inbetween (allows for a harder sequence), from what you were doing it sounds a bit too difficult as you powered out on 50% of the reps. If you were keeping with this structure I'd say to make the circuit slightly easier and aim to power out on ~20% of reps, although the Barrows document say's AnCap rest times can be between 2 - 4 times the climb time.

As such I'm planning on ancap and aerocap work in about 2 to 1 ratio for 6 weeks with some general bouldering and strength work. That's my understanding of Alex Barrows base phase ?? Am I on the right track ? Maybe more aero cap ?

2 AnCap sessions is enough per week, even this can feel a bit much if they're close together. Do you have a goal in mind for a certain time? If so this will dictate when you'd be best trying to move into a peak phase and then ultimately performing.


If anyone thinks I'm talking a load of crap feel free to corret me 

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. shoulder, loose 1.5kg by end of January.. Stabilize weight. 
MTG: RP 7b.
LTG: 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free

M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 8km walk.
T - Westway routes: 4 x1; 5 x2; 5+ x2; L. Shoulder rubbish.
W - Finger board lifting: half crimp and drags (35kg). 8km walk.
T - 8km walk.
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 8km walk.
S - Finger board lifting: half crimp and drags (35kg). 20 mins. step-ups. Hip and trunk exercises. 8km walk.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Finger board lifting: half crimp and drags (32.5kg), pinch training. Golfer’s elbow sore after this.
M - Hip and trunk exercises. 8km walk. Elbow worse.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises. 20 mins. step-ups.
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises. 8km walk.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 8km walk.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 30 mins. Step-ups.

In addition to a rubbish L. shoulder I now have a flared-up old R. golfer’s elbow. Bother. It will get better if I’m patient but Spain in February now looks like it will be another rehab-on-rock rather than 7b-crushing trip. Epic fail on the weight management too, hard to keep motivated when you're not climbing or even training.

The non-hang fingerboard seems like an effective - too effective! - tool to target finger flexors in isolation. On reflection, 2 days rest between sessions was not long enough for a new-to-me strength exercise and I should have reduced load by more than 2.5kg when was feeling a little run-down.

Plan: keep hammering the shoulder rehab. Elbow issues mean it will be properly rested from climbing at least. Keep working on the hill fitness, should pay dividends in August. Reassess the golfer’s in another 7 days.

[psborland]

Welcome!


It sounds like ~v4 is about your flash/onsight level for bouldering, so I would think that's a good level for your Ancap work. 50 Sec is also about right, but I haven't done any ancap in a while. 

Thanks Sasquatch, Yes I guess that's my solid onsight boulder grade.

'I punched Judy first' Dinbren

Welcome! Good route that one!

: Into next weeks post I know, but hoping for some guidance. Sunday I tried to put together an anaerobic  capacity set :
 two v4s close together 6 and 7 moves each. climbed first then down a v2 and back up the second. this took about 50 seconds so rested 3 minutes. Repeated 4 times. However on 3rd & 4th rep was not really completing the  second problem (fingers opening )
Then rested 10 minutes and repeated with about the same result.

Firstly is this about the correct protocol  secondly, if it is should i go easier/ shorter /longer rest or just persevere until i can complete the reps and sets as I have planned.

For AnCap you're looking at 12 - 15 moves aiming to power out on 20% of reps. If you're looking to do Dinbren style routes you'd be better off doing the shorter end; 12 moves and resting twice the climbing time.

You can either do 8 - 12 reps or 2 blocks of 4 reps with 10 mins inbetween (allows for a harder sequence), from what you were doing it sounds a bit too difficult as you powered out on 50% of the reps. If you were keeping with this structure I'd say to make the circuit slightly easier and aim to power out on ~20% of reps, although the Barrows document say's AnCap rest times can be between 2 - 4 times the climb time.

As such I'm planning on ancap and aerocap work in about 2 to 1 ratio for 6 weeks with some general bouldering and strength work. That's my understanding of Alex Barrows base phase ?? Am I on the right track ? Maybe more aero cap ?

2 AnCap sessions is enough per week, even this can feel a bit much if they're close together. Do you have a goal in mind for a certain time? If so this will dictate when you'd be best trying to move into a peak phase and then ultimately performing.


If anyone thinks I'm talking a load of crap feel free to corret me 

Thanks for the info Luke, Yes I'm keen to get back on Judy, so to speak .
Timing is subject to the weather coming good ( Spring sports hotRock trip recently got cancelled due to injured partner ) so I'm aiming for late march/April to be back on routes. Judy will be high on my priorities.
That's interesting you think slightly lower number of moves for Dinbren. I'll have a look at the wall this evening but I reckon I was probably close to 12 moves on the later reps 15 on the earlier ones so I'll see if I can adjust it slightly. 
So if I'm doing 2 x 4  I should be failing on the last rep only.
I'm not sure what the effect of changing the rest time has, so I plumped for the middle I.e 3 x climb time.

Cheers.

[tomtom]

A late post - its been a long week....

M: CrockCity wall in Hull. You know, there are some good problems and some good shapes there. But like a scrappy looking slightly chossy quarry, its not obvious there are some alright problems and some decent ones. And like such a quarry it may need a local to point them out. Which is a little frustrating when it costs £9 to climb there... anyway, all was good until I pulled hard on a sideways heel/foot and something in my knee went click click (to the extent others heard it there..). It didnt hurt - which meant either (a) it was nothing or (b) it was really bad. A few days later it still aches a bit, but is probably alright (phew)...

T:

We: Deadhangs, reps on slopers and weighted. Good.

Th:

Fr: Out to the Peak with Jim... Snow. Tricky quest to Burbage North... Wynatts was 'interesting', but getting up from Hathersage to Burbage bridge proved tricky... we tried both roads up (first past Higgar, then from Hathersage) and both became slick and impassable pretty quickly. Ended up going past fox houses and the Norfolk to come up from Sheff side. Once there headed to Remergence area that was dry/not melting etc... Shark came along and introduced himself as "Hello, I am Shark of the BMC". Not quite 'Dr Livingstone I presume' in calibre of greetings but getting there ANYWAY... usual Blind Date stuff... conditions were crap, then good as the sun dipped - I got close twice (again) then we had to depart due to child care stuff etc...

Sa:

Su: Logport wall in the evening. Nice session. I was weak and feeble.

[Luke Owens]

Thanks for the info Luke, Yes I'm keen to get back on Judy, so to speak .
Timing is subject to the weather coming good ( Spring sports hotRock trip recently got cancelled due to injured partner ) so I'm aiming for late march/April to be back on routes. Judy will be high on my priorities.
That's interesting you think slightly lower number of moves for Dinbren. I'll have a look at the wall this evening but I reckon I was probably close to 12 moves on the later reps 15 on the earlier ones so I'll see if I can adjust it slightly. 
So if I'm doing 2 x 4  I should be failing on the last rep only.
I'm not sure what the effect of changing the rest time has, so I plumped for the middle I.e 3 x climb time.

Cheers.

The shorter AnCap lends itself well to Dinbren as most of the cruxes there are at the start and the routes are really short. I Punched Judy is only roughly about 15 moves if I recall and the hardest moves are at the start.

Yeah, aim to power out on the last rep of each block.

Regarding the rest times it tends to be a sliding scale from what I can gather. So, shorter circuits longer rest, longer circuits shorter rest. The former having more of a transfer to strength.

Either way the goal is the same, to get powered out...

[psborland]

Cheers Luke, Useful stuff. It makes mores sense now thinking of it as a sliding scale starting from strength at low reps long rest -