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Southern Sweden Climbing Beta (Read 5214 times)

James Malloch

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Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 10:14:43 am
I'm off to a wedding in July which is a little south of Stockholm. We're probably going to make a 2 week trip out of it and will visit Gothenburg at some point also. We will have a car whilst out there.

Just wondering if anyone knows what the sport/bouldering areas are out there and what guidebooks would be best to look at.

Would be looking for things in the 6's and 7's. From some limited research there seems to be a lot around both cities but it would be good to hear some info from anyone who has been. We would also check out areas not close to the cities too - it would be nice to get out into the more remote areas.

Any beta is appreciated.

slackline

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#1 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 10:22:36 am
No experience, but some links on the wiki.

jwi

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#2 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 10:55:10 am
How far from Stockholm?

There are plenty of small sport climbing crags in Stockholm. The guidebook is, as most guidebooks in Sweden, out of print as swedish publishers of guidebooks seems to be unable to handle arithmetics. There are also lots of small bouldering areas around Stockholm.

Some sport climbing crags can be found here:
http://www.plonk.se/oldsite/foraren.html
(Click on the list on the left for the crags, then find and click “Sid 2 | Sid 3 | ...” to get to the topos)

Stockholm:
https://27crags.com/areas/315

Generally speaking the climbing in and around Gothenburg is far superior. There is no bouldering guide book but there is one (in print! yey!) for Sport/Trad : “Klättring i Göteborg med omnejd”

Gothenburg
https://27crags.com/areas/327

I have climbed very little in Stockholm, and quite a lot around Gothenburg but that was 20 years ago so. Hopefully someone will come along with more updated info on where to go etc.

In Stockholm, for 7s I'd go to “Örnberget”, “Skevik” or “Dödskalleberget”.
In Gtb I'd go to any of the crags in Partille. “Hylteberget” etc...

James Malloch

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#3 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 11:07:03 am
Thanks Slackline, I'd not used the wiki before - looks like a great resource! Unfortunately I can't open those links at work but I'll check them out at home this weekend.

JWI - many thanks for that too. Again 27crags looks a great site which I've not used. It's actually about 2 hours SW from Stockholm (Norrkoping) but we would likely head north to check the city out and stay for a while. Gothenburg is probably the area we will be in for longer which is good if the climbing is better.

Hylteberget looks good - seems like there is loads in the area! Wouldn't be a bad place to live...

jwi

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#4 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 11:12:51 am
... have someone told you how much it rains ...

But no, for those with a flexible schedule Gothenburg is a very good place to live.

Also, close to Norrköping, this is a very good sport climbing crag (some restrictions on access and more 7/8 than 6/7) https://27crags.com/crags/solvik/topos/solvik

Stabbsy

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#5 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 11:15:33 am
I climbed out there a few years ago at a similar time of year. It was just sport climbing around Gothenburg, didn't venture further north to Bohuslan (although I'd definitely look to go there on a return visit). There are a few crags local to Gothenburg itself - I went to Hylteberget (amazing F6c called Mefisto) and Utby (did a good F7a+ called Hooka Hey).

The rest of the climbing I did was north of the city on the two islands Tjorn and Orust. I had two days at Viks Kile - there's a great F7c/+ called something like The Hundred Years War (but in Swedish) that I had a quick play on but didn't get chance to return to.


swe11_008 by Neil Stabbs, on Flickr

Also had two days at Vindon, the memorable routes being two F7a+'s called Landkrabben (double knee bars up a weird overhanging chimney/groove feature) and Styv Kuling (exposed arête) and a F7b+ called Layline (lip traverse).


swe11_024 by Neil Stabbs, on Flickr

I really enjoyed the climbing in the area, it made a nice change from the usual limestone sport venues in Spain/France, etc. I was really lucky with the weather, so my view might have been different if I'd chosen a different week!

jwi

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#6 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 11:23:45 am
Oh and closer to Norrköping you can go to Ågelsjön (mostly trad/partly bolted) for some DWS

https://27crags.com/crags/agelsjon/topos/sjoklippan

https://www.instagram.com/p/BIRxw8QB9rI

Pitcairn

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#7 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
January 13, 2017, 11:59:48 am
Its true that the quality around Gothenburg is maybe better but there is a lot of good climbing around Stockholm (where I live).  Besides those previously mentioned, the best crags I think are on a Peninsula called Tyresö - dödskalleberget, dyviksudde, träskberget are all good.  Search them on 27 crags.  Depending where you will be, Västervik also has very good sport climbing and bouldering.  Happy to give more detailed help if needed.

PlainCroi$$ant

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#8 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
April 20, 2023, 12:09:44 pm
I'm off to Southern Sweden in just over a week for 4-5 days of bouldering (weather permitting). Current vague plan is to hit three different spots: Kjuge, Bohuslan and Vastervik.

I've never been before so just wondering if anyone that's more familiar with the areas has any thoughts on that as a plan (anywhere else worth checking out or going to instead of those? we're driving from Copenhagen) and also any recs for 3* problems in the 7A-7C range?

Cheers!

jwi

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#9 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
April 20, 2023, 12:21:03 pm
Monolith and Caspersen's Arete in Kjugekull. Both 7a+ and conveniently located next to each other. (I was there two days 20 years ago).




I thought Hönö (an island near Gothenburg with easy access by ferry) was pretty unique and very skin friendly. Den gamle och havet (7b+) is supposedly the classic. It was too hard for me at the time (and is likely still)

andy popp

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#10 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
April 20, 2023, 02:04:26 pm
I'm off to Southern Sweden in just over a week for 4-5 days of bouldering (weather permitting).

Weather in Copenhagen currently bloody lovely - wall-to-wall sunshine, 17c, very low humidity, and good fresh breeze. Speaking to a friend from Oslo this morning its the same there, so probably is throughout southern Sweden too. Looks more unsettled from Sunday returning to dry and sunny (though with lower temps) from Thursday next week. Zero advice on the bouldering.

PlainCroi$$ant

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#11 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
April 20, 2023, 02:39:43 pm
Mega, thanks! Den gamle och havet looks ace.



Droyd

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#12 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
April 20, 2023, 03:30:17 pm
With the caveat that when I lived in Sweden I wasn't a boulderer, and also it was several years ago: I lived in Lund so Kjuge was my closest bit of rock, and having visited a couple of times I wasn't especially impressed. The locals have a similar approach to the place as we do to grit with regard to season, skin, midges, and conditions, i.e. if you want to climb hard it needs to be winter, and outside of that the place can be midgy and the rock very abrasive. Most of the serious boulderers I knew in southern Sweden spent the majority of the summer training for winter projects there and, while I imagine the midges won’t have appeared yet, double-digit temps and sun would probably be sub-optimal for anything challenging.

That's not to say don't go there at all, but to my mind if you went on the way to Västervik that’d be a bit like flying into Birmingham and stopping off at Cademan Woods on the way up to the Peak, but with added probability that you’d either trash your skin or not do much; going from CPH to Kjuge then onto Bohuslän would be like leaving Birmingham for Devon but making a detour to the Southern Sandstone.

PlainCroi$$ant

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#13 Re: Southern Sweden Climbing Beta
April 20, 2023, 03:45:04 pm
"going from CPH to Kjuge then onto Bohuslän would be like leaving Birmingham for Devon but making a detour to the Southern Sandstone"... hahaha, that definitely puts it into context. Thanks!

 

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