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'Managing' finger injuries (Read 17672 times)

Paul B

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#50 Re: 'Managing' finger injuries
January 16, 2017, 12:47:03 pm
Thanks for answering, was hoping someone would pick up on this.

That's surprising. Except for right at the time of injury I've pretty much always used prodding as a way of judging how my recovery is going...

+1, thanks Duncan.

Schnell that's what I've done for years. This one, as of yet, hasn't given me pain when climbing (apart from a sharp jug biting into it). I taped the other night and the pressure of the tape when climbing was aggravating it so perhaps I should stop taping and just get on with it  :strongbench:

PipeSmoke

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#51 Re: 'Managing' finger injuries
January 16, 2017, 01:09:18 pm
Yeah I have found that sometimes taping overly tight has made it worse, however if get the tightness right I have been able to climb freely. Important to stop taping after a while as (for me anyway) it made index and ring finger begin to ache, I assume from taking extra weight.

catbreath

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#52 Re: 'Managing' finger injuries
January 20, 2017, 02:21:57 pm
I've only been climbing ~4 years so take this with a grain of salt but I had similar issues with A2's almost permanently feeling 'bruised' when prodded after climbing but never being a problem during climbing (unless something reeeally crushed them against the bone). A week or three's rest would sort them out but the problem would come back really quick. I never bothered taping, but pre/post climb finger/wrist stretches that were meant to loosen my forearms sorted the pulley pain out permanently after four or so sessions, though!

Sometimes its hard to tell the difference between DOMS type pain vs 'ok but dont push it' vs 'holy crap dont do that' so I tend to avoid crimps and open hand these days instead (which has its own problems).

 

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