UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club Week 358 2nd - 8th January 2017 (Read 11620 times)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
Thank you for your thoughts and wishes everyone... Much appreciated.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
T. Lunch. Systems board. Following the discovery that my AnCap routine was not very AnCappy I worked out a new 13move sequence on my board and had 4 attempts. Starts up by old benchmark problem on crusher crimps (that I used not to be able to do) then comes down the board in a couple of burly moves on large pinches and undercuts then back up on a relica of the Oak throw move. Managed it once and thereafter falling off the throw move (sounds familiar!)

Sounds a bit to hard to be AnCap? From what I recall you're aiming for failure on the last 20% of the reps. I usually do 8 reps aiming to fail on the last couple of moves of reps 7 & 8.

Quote
Managed to hold the pinch on go1 but fell off thereafter. 2 sets. Couldnt do crimpy start on attempt at a third set so stopped

It does sound too hard and possibly too cruxy.  AnCap circuits should ideally be sustained with no stopper moves.  These moves will feel ok while working and setting but show up during the first workout when you start failing at the same point despite feeling ok.
Stopper moves was exactly what I thought when I read "burly down-climbing on undercuts and pinches" as I stroked my chin knowingly.
When I set one I start with hardest moves at the start and smaller moves on positive holds at the end so I can keep holding on til the bitter end, then once I've completed 3x4 sets I start to tweak it and push the hard moves further back into the circuit.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3639
  • Karma: +200/-3
...which is handy as Ive just started my new job - Commercial Partnerships Manager at the BMC!


Am I the only person who just spotted this?


Well done Shark, congratulations!




shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8744
  • Karma: +629/-17
  • insect overlord #1
...which is handy as Ive just started my new job - Commercial Partnerships Manager at the BMC!
Am I the only person who just spotted this?

Well done Shark, congratulations!

Thanks TTT. I guess most saw it on Facebook. Day 2 today. Not been sacked yet.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3639
  • Karma: +200/-3
Aha. That explains it, I'm not on that there Facebook.

Good stuff anyway...is there a grade above overlord, or do you need to create one specially? Mega-overlord? Overlord squared?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8744
  • Karma: +629/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Aha. That explains it, I'm not on that there Facebook.

Good stuff anyway...is there a grade above overlord, or do you need to create one specially? Mega-overlord? Overlord squared?

King Shark


[/quote]

Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
Mega Shark

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
Stickleback

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8008
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Megalodon, obviously.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
Megalodon, obviously.

Thats close to Megalog..

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3865
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
A late post this week...

Monday Foundry 20 routes auto belays
Tuesday Foundry 10 route with JV
Wednesday 2x10 minutes jog
Thursday Foundry 21 routes auto belays
Friday Turbo early, 30 minute interval, gym afternoon
Saturday turbo 20 minute early; gym
Sunday turbo 30 minute early; core stuff evening

James Malloch

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1707
  • Karma: +65/-1
Bit of a late comer but I thought I'd join in with PC this year to try and help with training psyche and keep a record of what I've been up to. Currently rehabbing finger so not hard into training but hoping I can start to increase the amount I'm doing over the next month.

STG: Keep up with finger physio and set training plan up for the next 3 months (plus keep to it).

MTG: Get reacquainted with the Yorkshire Limestone this spring/summer. Go for volume rather than projects and try to tick off as many 7a/b at various crags. Once finger is better do some benchmarking and tailor training based on results.

LTG (4 years): The Groove at Malham.



Sun 1st: Leeds Depot climbing with a few friends. Finger was feeling sore so I avoided crimps but felt happy climbing some easier things with the odd wood/red flash thrown in. One of the first times I'd been sensible and actively avoided crimping where possible. Did some circuit board stuff up to 6c ish okay but above this level it got crimpy so I avoided it.

Mon 2nd: Day out at Crookrise. Really nice day out and bumped into some friends. Started off flashing The Crease (6A) and then had a go at Barry King Size (7A) which felt okay but I didn't want to pull hard on the top RH sidepull/crimp to throw for the top. Finger didn't hurt but felt like I should err on the side of caution. Should go fine once finger is better. Had a play on a 7A+ traverse after this whose name evades me. It was shit and I didn't do it (but should have).

Tue 3rd: Decided to fight the wind and go to Almscliff. One of the few times I've been when there were no other cars. Turns out it was grim. Virgin traverse remains a nemesis (like most things on grit for me) but I made it to the corner at least. Reacquainted myself with Underhand (7B+) using front two on the RH crimp/slot to avoid the injured ring finger. Felt okay overall but should probably be more warmed up next time and wait for my finger to heal.

Wed 4th: Evening Yoga Class (Vinyasa Flow). Good session but it helped to demonstrate my inflexibility. Been going to the same place (it's next door to my home) on and off for the past 4 months. I thing in 2017 I'm going to try and go more often (once per week at least) as I imagine it will benefit me a fair bit.

Thur 5th: Evening Yoga Class (Dynamic Hatha). Didn't really enjoy this one - seemed to involve lots of positions I couldn't get into whatsoever and it also put a lot of force through my knee which I'm currently doing physio on following a running injury.

Fri 6th: Sharkathon fail. I intended to do another yoga class (I had 8 sessions left on a pass to be used by 18 Jan) or go to the wall but I ended up in the pub with my girlfriend for someone's PhD finishing drinks. Didn't drink much (two pints) as I'm trying to cut down on that in general but it ended up being a reasonably late one. Had a great burger.

Sat 7th: Day out in Coverdale (north Yorkshire) visiting my girlfriends PhD site. It's an upland catchment area for tributaries feeding into the River Cover. The project is looking at natural flood management and the effects of woody debris dams (chucking logs in the river). Lots of walking around, looking at the tributaries and discussing various things that she could actually base her PhD on (there are loads of possibilities). Great day.

Sun 8th: Semi-Sharkathon fail. Jobs day. Lots of walking around Leeds doing various things on our ever-growing to-do list. Lots of buying things for DIY jobs, taking things back we didn't need anymore and ended with a trip to Screwfix and Ikea. Relax in the evening watching some TV and doing finger rehab.


Not a great start to Power Club training wise but it taught me a bit more about my finger injury in terms of what definitely hurts it ahead of a physio appointment I had booked on Wednesday 11th Jan with a finger specialist (will talk about this in the next PC). Had a good and enjoyable week overall and managed to be sensible whilst climbing as I normally ignore my injury and end up doing more damage than good.

Goal wise, as mentioned above, getting fixed is the main aim before a nice summer on the Yorkshire limestone in which I want to work through a 7a/+/b ticklist with approx. 20 routes of each grade. Would be good to get into the swing of things and start to O/S some things locally and maybe give Tremolo another go later in the season if my finger is holding up and I feel like it wouldn't be a siege.

The grove is my LTG (before my girlfriend finshes her PhD and we head off in a van for a year). It looks a great line though it's often wet. Might swap this out for one of the other classic Yorkshire 8a+ (Supercool or Urgent Action), or maybe all three if things are going well!

When fit I'd hope to be redpointing around 7c again so hopefully it's not too high a goal if I can stay uninjured and train well. Here's to 2017. 

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5830
  • Karma: +625/-36
Only a week late.

STG: Secret winter goal - first need a winter. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), G.Orme, Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop routes at Mega Crag X. (spring-summer). Send proj on L.Orme. (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M. Drytooling at a sub-freezing Manod with gf. Couple of laps on the warm-up, 3 laps on my M7.
T.
W. Fingerboard. 6 x 10secs on AAA battery-reduced BM 2k slots with 12kgs.
T. MA.
F. Moonboard sesh at Boardroom. Trying 3 different 7Bs on the app, getting close on all.
S.
S. Flew to Milan for a week's ice climbing in Cogne/Aosta valley with gf.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal