[Nigel]

Hey, I'm in Newcastle at the mo and planning on North York moors on tue. I've never climbed there before, I'm bouldering. I've got the guide but it doesn't really tell me where's best to go - so, where is the best place to go? The stanage of North York moors? Cheers 😊

[bigironhorse]

Hey, I'm in Newcastle at the mo and planning on North York moors on tue. I've never climbed there before, I'm bouldering. I've got the guide but it doesn't really tell me where's best to go - so, where is the best place to go? The stanage of North York moors? Cheers 😊

I'm probably not the best qualified person to answer this but I reckon Wainstones will probably be a good bet at this time of year as long as it's not too windy, there are really good problems to suit most grades. Scugdale also has a good circuit of bouldering and highballs. Clemmits is really good but not sure if it will be in good nick at this time of the year? Some good stuff at stoupe brow depending on your level. Body torque at stormy hall is well worth stopping off for if it's en route as it's pretty much roadside.

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[dave]

Scugdale is a really good, kind of the burbage north of the moors - soloing, highballs and bouldering mixed together.

[tommytwotone]

I went a good while ago for a long weekend with Lee while he was developing a few areas and really rated Duck Boulders. Agree on Clemmits - we went when it was a bit damp and misty but the whole place was green.


Stoupe Brow is indeed good, albeit the best lines seem to be in the high 7s and 8s - but quite a bit of it is pretty high and not really a one pad, on your own type venue from what I remember.



A bit of video beta here:

[BID]

The best things at Scugdale is off to the right of the main crag (you take the path at the top) on Barkers Crag.

New Dimensions at E3 6a something like highball 6B+ with a good landing but a scary top out (possibly check it out before you climb it). Could be done alone with 1 or 2 pads if you climb solid 7A, otherwise a spotter and 2/3 pads. And next to that, grand master flash at E5 6b, something like 7A+ with a v bad landing but I think if you fall off the hard moves you miss the horror. Neither are in the rockfax guide and take a bit of finding.

The rest of Scugdale is a nice day of 6m soloing if you don't mind soloing between 4b and 5b.

Not sure how much bouldering is at the Wainstones really, as I remember it it's more of a route place, and the walk in is a bit of a graft.

General disclaimers about people on the internet not knowing what they're talking about.

[bigironhorse]

Not sure how much bouldering is at the Wainstones really, as I remember it it's more of a route place, and the walk in is a bit of a graft.

I would say there is a decent amount, at least enough for a good full day session if you've not been before. If you walk along the forest track rather than over the top of ravenscar etc the walk isn't too bad. The prow, beneath the breadline, and fade to grey are all pretty good around 7A and all the stuff on the 'A' boulder is worthwhile. Not much quality above 7A though to be fair.

The Mighty Oak (7B) at Oak crag is one of the best problems I have done at the grade and is well worth seeking out but that one does have a nasty walk in! Can be combined with stormy hall in a day though.

[Stabbsy]

I was racing up in the Moors yesterday and it all seems pretty damp. Very damp underfoot, very little wind and quite high humidity, so things aren't drying very quickly. One of the crags high up that's catching the wind would be your best bet so that probably writes off Clemmits and the better bouldering at Wainstones. I think Stoupe Brow is sheltered from westerly winds so might retain the damp, same with Stormy Hall. Scugdale is a fairly good shout, or you could combine Duck Boulders and Oak Wall (easy enough to walk between the two when the bracken is dead). I'd also consider Camp Hill - same parking as Clemmits and always seems to be breezy.

[andy_e]

I'd have suggested Thorgill too as the problems there are ace, but given the prognosis above it might well be wet. Worth a look though if it dries out!

[bigironhorse]

As a cautionary note to anyone venturing over to Stoupe, do not climb on the rock if it is even a suspicion of damp as the rock is very soft in places and will easily be damaged if climbed on when wet. Scugdale will be a good bet especially if the wind is blowing on to the crag.

[Nigel]

 Cheers for all suggestions so far, I'll check guide later to see how things look but it's sounding like scugdale. Agree that we need somewhere catching a bit of breeze. Fingers crossed...

[Paul B]

Personally, if it wasn't too windy I'd be seeking out Goldsborough instead.

[fatneck]

If you're considering Goldsborough (and there's nothing to suggest that you are!) and you fancy something a little more esoteric, Crag Hill and Sunnybrow might be worth a shout?

...awaits correction from more informed locals....

[andy_e]

Crag Hill is ace but banned from Jan 1st until May 1st.

[clm]

Anyone got a Ravensdale/Stoup brow pdf. they can send me? I dutifully paid my 50p on Betaguides, the PayPal has gone through but no trace of the order or guide. Can’t see proper contact details on the website to chase it up, just a bunch of links. 

[Steve R]

Assuming you're just bouldering, Stoupe's not very extensive - basically just two big boulders.  The approach info and map on ukc should get you there fine.  Then with the descriptions and photos there (plus vids elsewhere) you'll figure everything out pretty easily.  I think the stuff on ukc will actually be a lot more up to date than the old pdf.

[casa]

i'm probably going to regret asking...but on that ukc link which also shows Walrus Buttress there are 2 climbs listed Walrus Flake Project & Blunt Arete Project (both given E10 7b) so my question is, have these been climbed or are they projects???

[Steve R]

unclimbed... I suspect the full blunt arete thing is impossible as the description suggests.  Definitely climbable options coming in more from the left.  What's listed as walrus flake is one of the harder interpretations of this I think.

[casa]

Thanks Steve. It is all to the good that projects are listed but I was a bit perplexed with them already having grades and also stars. Some skillz that......being able to grade and give 3*** to an unclimbed line !