[jwi]

According to Fanatic Climbing Charles Albert has added a sit start to Délire onirique at Rocher St-Germain. Albert used 12 sessions to link the sit and proposes easy 8C.

[haydn jones]

Is that a fig 4 on a 8C boulder!? Incredible!

[nai]

Is that a fig 4 on a 8C boulder!? Incredible!

A barefoot fig4 at that.

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[ferret]

Is that a fig 4 on a 8C boulder!? Incredible!

something tells me its going to be the easiest move

[Murph]

something tells me its going to be the easiest move

Probably not 

It's 8A+ from the stand...so either this move or the move before it must be the 8C bit, no?

[Murph]

Just checked the link. "The climbs proposes a nice Yaniro as crux for reaching the stand".

What's a Yaniro?

Well this picture of Tony Yaniro climbing at Buoux in 1986 might explain:



Isn't that the coolest thing? Naming a move after someone. Do we do that in English? I can't think. Is there Larry Layaway, a Harry Heelhook or a Garry Gaston who could step forward?

[joel182]

Just checked the link. "The climbs proposes a nice Yaniro as crux for reaching the stand".

What's a Yaniro?

Well this picture of Tony Yaniro climbing at Buoux in 1986 might explain:


Isn't that the coolest thing? Naming a move after someone. Do we do that in English? I can't think. Is there Larry Layaway, a Harry Heelhook or a Garry Gaston who could step forward?

Not quite Garry Gaston, but not too far away...

[jwi]

Isn't that the coolest thing? Naming a move after someone. Do we do that in English? I can't think. Is there Larry Layaway, a Harry Heelhook or a Garry Gaston who could step forward?

Layback is called “Dülfer” after Hans Dülfer as well. Disappointingly enough a gaston is called épaule (shoulder).

IIRC a gaston is called such in light mockery of Gaston who had a tendency to muscle up cracks by applying the ‘forcing-open-the-elevator-shaft' technique rather than jamming them.

[sdm]

Isn't that the coolest thing? Naming a move after someone. Do we do that in English? I can't think. Is there Larry Layaway, a Harry Heelhook or a Garry Gaston who could step forward?

There is also a problem at 95.2 called Le Yaniro:

[cheque]

or a Garry Gaston who could step forward?

EDIT- just read the other replies.  That's a great book (which also has a problem at Hen Cloud named after it) though- nothing in it about shouldery sidepull moves but I enjoyed it despite having no interest in the alpine climbing it is about. In fact reading books like that is what put me off the idea of alpinism for life!

[dave]

Classic climbing literature that Starlight & Storm book, amazing stuff.

[r-man]

We did have the Moon kick, which I've heard reference to a couple of times in the past, but not in recent years. Obviously Moon wasn't the first to deploy the technique, but he did it on something cool...

[moose]

Leavittation is another eponymous technique - Randy Leavitt's off-width climbing method of shuffling fist stacks and knee jams.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/leavittation-how-climb-offwidth-cracks

[i.munro]

We did have the Moon kick,

Double-axel ?

[r-man]

Never heard that one!

[Duma]

I've always called these pogos (the cypher move)

[andy_e]

Ninja kick.

[36chambers]

heard an America in Squamish use the term Moon Kick

[HaeMeS]

As JWI already pointed out laybacking is called “to Dülfer” or "Dülfering" after Hans Dülfer. But it is also known as "to Piaz", after Tita Piaz (an Italian).
Not exactly a move, but the French call a campus board "pan Güllich".

[jwi]

I just learned that the french word for drop-knee (lolotte) is in honour of Laurent “Lolo” Jacob. There you go.

[Muenchener]

Layback is called “Dülfer” after Hans Dülfer as well.

In some languages including iirc French & Italian. Not, however, in German where they think Tito Piaz was the inventor.

Edit: rats, HaeMeS beat me to it by over a month.

How long before the footless opposed-press crucifix traverse, or "Pooch", enters the standard movement vocabulary?

[mrjonathanr]

In France an 'egyptian' is called 'une lolotte' after Fabrice Guillot who was credited with its invention,  have an idea Lolo was his nickname, someone French may arrive to confirm or deny or even do this 

[andy_e]

I just learned that the french word for drop-knee (lolotte) is in honour of Laurent “Lolo” Jacob. There you go.

In France an 'egyptian' is called 'une lolotte' after Fabrice Guillot who was credited with its invention,  have an idea Lolo was his nickname, someone French may arrive to confirm or deny or even do this 

 

[jwi]

I just learned that the french word for drop-knee (lolotte) is in honour of Laurent “Lolo” Jacob. There you go.

In France an 'egyptian' is called 'une lolotte' after Fabrice Guillot who was credited with its invention,  have an idea Lolo was his nickname, someone French may arrive to confirm or deny or even do this 

 

[Source]
Grimper 2016
https://www.pressreader.com/france/grimper/20160901/282978219361668
[/Source]

[mrjonathanr]

My source is better, chatting to Lynn Hill at Volx when the climber in question was on a route. So beat that! 

It was, self evidently, Laurent Jacob (clue's in the name, innit) 

[mrjonathanr]

He may even have been doing the Egyptian on L'Invitatation au Voyage at the time ....