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[Peak][Stanage][7A-B] (Read 2438 times)

mark20

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[Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 05, 2016, 02:39:51 pm
A couple from Stanage, get your retroclaims in now

At the Popular end
Hooters 7B - A super direct start to The Nose, through the triangular roof. Reach round the roof to sloping ripples on either side of the arete, and slap up for the break above. Finish at the next break/flake and traverse off, or finish up The Nose.



And up on the edge above Beauty/Beast
The arete of Undercut Crack, from a sit start. Use the seam on the right and dyno for the break. Solo up Undercut Crack or drop off.

Scouse D

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#1 Re: [Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 05, 2016, 03:40:52 pm
look good them, nice one

dave

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#2 Re: [Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 05, 2016, 03:55:44 pm
Don't think that one which is the edge of the crack has been done. Although I looked at it a few years back as an obvious one to go back to but never got round to it, so it will have been seen by others too. What grade do you reckon for that one? I thought it looked good, presumably ignores the other side of the crack?

mark20

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#3 Re: [Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 05, 2016, 04:17:38 pm
I dug out a rock that was blocking the start, so I doubt it had been done before, at least not from a sitter. Felt hard at first but 7A once I'd sussed it and committed to the last move. And yes I eliminated the other side of the crack, which is a bit awkward at the start as you can't put a heel on without dabbing, so quite a powerful move to bring the left hand up

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: [Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 05, 2016, 08:39:08 pm
Sorry, Ned beat you to the crack arête. He did mention it to me but I don't think I ever posted on UKB (he usually puts his things on PB.info). He later climbed the crack you have your RH in direct from SS, it's a very good 7b, pretty sure that's on UKB thread somewhere.

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#5 Re: [Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 05, 2016, 08:51:23 pm
Had a search around and seems I mentioned the crack in last year's best of 2015 but never got round to writing up. It's called Crackless Bottom 7B - climb the overhanging vague finger crack from SS.

mark20

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#6 Re: [Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 06, 2016, 06:58:01 am
That makes sense. Feel free to change PB.info, I got a bit hasty and already added the arête.
I noticed that the seam/crack direct looked good, I'll have to go back and try it.

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#7 Re: [Peak][Stanage][7A-B]
December 06, 2016, 11:34:02 am
No need, Ned came up with the same grade and hadn't thought of a name. Will try not to leave retroclaim traps out there in future!

 

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