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Mono-tastic (Read 14700 times)

rodma

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#50 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 09:48:14 pm
Its a long time ago that I did it, but how about Poverty at Bowden?
And poverty rh, so he can train ( rather ironically given the name) his left hand.

La derniere fleau in font, but that's a rh mono

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andy popp

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#51 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 06:58:04 am
Does Monoblock at Pex actually have any monos? Not steep, but certainly hard.

Nope

SEDur

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#52 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 08:29:15 am
Maybe already suggested, but isn't pyranah at Rubicon 7a? That starts with a bunch of drilled monos

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dpb

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#53 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 08:36:09 am
Also not steep but should think you could invent some eliminate problems with loads of monos at Rheinstor

Murph

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#54 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 09:17:32 am
Maybe already suggested, but isn't pyranah at Rubicon 7a? That starts with a bunch of drilled monos

These get mixed up in various guidebooks but I think it's White Bait that has the drilled monos that you actually use. That one goes straight up and is just to the left of Miller's Tale. Piranha is a bit further to the left and sort of traverses left (the boulder start at least) and has monos but I think their use is avoidable.

SEDur

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#55 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 09:18:54 am
Maybe already suggested, but isn't pyranah at Rubicon 7a? That starts with a bunch of drilled monos

These get mixed up in various guidebooks but I think it's White Bait that has the drilled monos that you actually use. That one goes straight up and is just to the left of Miller's Tale. Piranha is a bit further to the left and sort of traverses left (the boulder start at least) and has monos but I think their use is avoidable.
Cheers for clarification!

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Tommy

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#56 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 02:42:09 pm
Thanks so much for these suggestions everyone!! Freaking awesome.... got me really psyched.

I'll collate them all into a list and post up as a "oner" and then we'll all have something useful as a bit of a resource for anyone who ever searches this thread. In reply to the 7A vs 7B+ thing it's more about the fact that I'm happy to do easier things around the 7A mark if they're specific to the goal mainly as it's just good fun. But the 2-finger stuff would need to be a bit more gnarly I guess as it's not quite as specific.

I can't believe I'm going to have to finally visit Parisellas properly for a session... (or a hundred)  :)

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#57 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 02:44:35 pm
I suspect thats your going to be better of just traveling abroad to say frankanjura or building a replica. I'm  at a loss for hard mono problems and all the monos that i can think of the crux isn't  the mono move.

Theres only one that i can think of with the crux revolving around  the mono. Its the left hand variant to high speed impact(churnet) Font 7B+. For extra training you could link the teaverse into this.

Yup, quite agree. Going to go there this year as it seems to be the standard to compare to.... would be inspiring to see AD as well.

grimer

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#58 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 02:53:43 pm
Hey Tom I remember doing the BMC Froggatt guide, seeing a couple of unclimbed routes and told some hotshot about them. I'm pretty sure it was your little friend, Peter. I THINK he looked at them both and dismissed them as too hard. One went on to become James Pearson's Return of the Jedi, that amazing E8 arete at Matlock Bank. The other was the slabby wall left of Demon Rib at Black Rocks.

As i remember the crux of the latter was covering miles of ground using a miniature, shallow one-finger porthole.

Now, I know that doesn't fit your criteria but it is: Hard; protectable; a great line; on the most perfect of gritstone; in one of the most classic locations on the Eastern Edges.

Murph

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#59 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 02:56:14 pm
Not sure if these count, but Jason's Mono Problem at burb west? And Sloper Pocket Eliminate on trackside? Both 7A if you are wandering past on the way to something more challenging. Like Haydn said though, pulling on the mono is not necessarily the crux.



andy_e

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#60 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 06:05:26 pm
Does Monoblock at Pex actually have any monos? Not steep, but certainly hard.

Nope

Thanks for the confirmation. Shit name in that case!  :whistle:

SA Chris

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#61 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 06:06:37 pm
I would have named the thread Mono Culture if it was me.

petejh

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#62 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 06:59:54 pm
Here's a left-field suggestion Tom. There are a bunch of drytooling routes in neverneverland of the Slate quarries. The holds are all drilled pockets. It might be possible to rock climb the routes using the drilled pockets as monos if your fingers are strong enough... They aren't big though, think a 10 or 12 mm bit was used.
Also 'The Works' drytooling crag in Cumbria is similar, drilled slate.

Both venues are steep so would suit your goals.

ghisino

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#63 Re: Mono-tastic
January 04, 2017, 08:16:08 pm
A classic left mono move in font: Sale gosse assis

Italian monos: Grotti. Cool Margalef-like conglomerate crag near Rome, maybe not world class, but a good idea if one happens to already visit the city. 99% of the moves will be face pulling on a mono or middle two...

shark

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#64 Re: Mono-tastic
January 07, 2017, 02:07:26 pm
Noticed a couple of monos on Dick Williams with potential to create an eliminate

lagerstarfish

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#65 Re: Mono-tastic
January 08, 2017, 01:08:19 pm
I wonder whether there is much scope for removing rusted bolts/sleaves from old aid routes to create monster mono routes?

like Intrepid at Baildon Bank

joel182

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#66 Re: Mono-tastic
January 10, 2017, 11:43:09 pm
Reading through his blog, Dan Varian's bloc The Shrubbery ~8A apparently has an index mono

 

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