[T_B]

M - LI AeroCap
T - Max Hangs - 5 x half crimp on Lattice +20Kg, 2.5mins rest. 4 x middle two +10Kg, 2.5 mins rest (one was actually 3.5mins rest - still a personal best).
W - 1.5hr session Myofacial release treatment. Later, 30 mins moving around wall. Lower back felt loosest in years - high steps and drop knees felt really good!
T - P.M. Wave. Did White with black spots and red on wave. Felt really good, keeping feet on well (due to more movement in lower back?)
F -
S - A.M. 5Km run to test back for running - felt good. P.M. Works Motherboard. Not as good as previous sessions, felt a bit tired and v cold. 2 x 7A+, 1 x 7B. Session cut short.
S - P.M. Made myself do some repeaters. 3 x drag on Moon, 2 x front 3 drag, failing on rep 4 of 3rd set 2.5 mins rest. 2 x 10 pull ups.

I was still struggling with my back Mon/Tue so had some treatment (Myofacial release). On Wednesday evening it was the first time in 6 years that I couldn't feel any tension/discomfort in my lower back. Part of the treatment was re-aligning my pelvis. It feels as though the muscles around the base of my back are now saying wtf?! So, I still have some discomfort and feel vulnerable in certain positions, but overall there is more movement. Climbing immediately after the treatment highlighted the extent to which I have been limited by such stiffness in my lower back. It also make me realise how it's taken some of the enjoyment out of climbing.

Thought I'd overdone it Tuesday doing 4 x +10Kg (a PB) on middle two, but fingers feel OK.

Looks as though we're going to get a homeboard built in the garage, though Mrs T_B is keen for it to be steeper than I'd like it to be (she wants 40 degrees, I'd been keen for less steep and smaller holds... thinking back to the Schoolroom 30 degree board when it was the right angle). 3m high by 3.3m wide hopefully.

[tommytwotone]

There's a good book called treat your own neck prob pick it up for a few quid* on amazon. Might help 👍

I'd agree. Likely to be a lot more helpful than foam rollers etc.

We talking this one yo?


As a fellow terrible postured / injured Power Club member I might grab it too.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Treat-Your-Neck-Robin-McKenzie/dp/0987650416

[TobyD]

That's the one TTT.

[TobyD]

M 28 Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 29 Turbo early AM Gym AM
W 30 Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 01 Turbo early AM bike ride PM
F 02 Turbo early AM Gym PM
S 03 Turbo early AM Gym AM
S 04 Turbo early AM Gym AM seaside walk PM

Really getting into dawn sessions on a turbo trainer, short and sweet. Feeling like it may actually be productive too, at least far more so than trying to climb absolutely first thing. Had planned for a climb or two as well, but lifts/partners fell through. The gym is starting to wear a bit thin, but making slow progress on general conditioning. Watched a dude at the gym bench press 240kg one day this week. Now that is some power; mind you i don't suppose he would get up much at Malham.

[nai]

We talking this one yo?


As a fellow terrible postured / injured Power Club member I might grab it too.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Treat-Your-Neck-Robin-McKenzie/dp/0987650416

That's what I ordered, Tom, but I found it cheaper/est on ebay for the most recent edition.

Enjoyed yoga this morning, much more like a workout than pilates, you could feel yourself getting deeper into each position and a better stretch as they cycled round.  Dare I say I can feel improvement in my neck already (although this is likely temporary, it always feels better after manipulation at physio as well.)

[nai]

Mrs T_B is keen for it to be steeper than I'd like it to be (she wants 40 degrees, I'd been keen for less steep and smaller holds... thinking back to the Schoolroom 30 degree board

If only there was another angle somewhere between 30 and 40   

[36chambers]

Mrs T_B is keen for it to be steeper than I'd like it to be (she wants 40 degrees, I'd been keen for less steep and smaller holds... thinking back to the Schoolroom 30 degree board

If only there was another angle somewhere between 30 and 40   

50?

[andy_e]

I was going to suggest 45, but your suggestion is better.

[T_B]

I have never heard of a 35 degree board.

[duncan]

A BOGOF


STG: Rehab. shoulder.
MTG: project a 7b. Manage life's stresses more effectively (specific goals here but not for ukb).
LTG: Font 7A. 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni next summer + one other long, hard and free
BHAG: Chant du Cygne


M - Westway. Tweaked L. shoulder in the warm-up.
T - Evening with habrich and son #2. 
W
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
F
S - Portland with the retired super-Alpinist. Southern England claggy all over but the clouds cleared as we approached the scepter'd isle. Glorious day, Blacknor deserted. Warmed up very slowly and puntered around up to 6b+. Felt great to be on rock, only the second time in 3 months. Shoulder improved as the day progressed.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
M - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
T - Westway. Bouldering to V2. Tweaked shoulder again.
W -
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Portland with the retired super-Alpinist. Blacknor again, much busier than previous weekend. Sunny and very pleasant in the sun to start, gradually clouded over and was bitter by the end of the day. Repeated last weekend’s process but the warming-up didn’t work and shoulder felt pretty sore this time.


Missed two weeks - sore shoulder, continued stresses at work, chest infection, generally run-down, all obviously related - meant no climbing. Trying to get to grips with all of the above. Very easy and prolonged warm-up climbing with the sun on my back works...but tricky to do this in the UK in December! Long-term goals need strength and power deficits addressing but I’m just going to have to be patient for a few weeks and stick with the rehab. and aerocaping.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - hill sprint x6; 25' bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - front lever pulls 10x5, brutal. Cleans 5x5 46kg. Trap pulls 5x2.
Thu - board climbing, reacquainted with two projects, singles and short links, not bad. PE low, new routine 1'30" on/1'30" off x5, fell at 45" of fourth set. Hard. Various weights (shoulder rotations, incline trap extension, dumbbell complex, shoulder walk) absolutely brutal. The board is very hard, no wonder I climb things on rock.
Fri - shoulder rotations, front raise, dumbbell thruster 10x5. Recovery session.
Sat - board climbing, tried one project, 16 degrees, 64% humidity, useless, must sort this thing out. PE low, new routine fell at 1' on fourth set. Cool. Boxing bag 25'. Brilliant session.
Sun - shoulder rotations; ab wheel x100; dumbbell complex; boxing bag. Very cool.

Very glad to be back on the board, I was terrified about it. Now I'm happy because I know that climbing on it makes me strong.
Sadly still being unable - or lacking the courage - to crimp is an issue. A serious one.
Battled horrid conditions, up to 73% humidity, got a dehumidifier from fellow Filz, hopefully projects will start falling soon. Only four or five left now.

[andy_e]

Battled horrid conditions, up to 73% humidity

Yeah, 73% is about the kind of level when I think "wow, low humidity today, conditions will be good."

[Nibile]

Battled horrid conditions, up to 73% humidity

Yeah, 73% is about the kind of level when I think "wow, low humidity today, conditions will be good."

Is your board in the Rain Forest?

[Will Hunt]

It's relative humidity. For the same volume of water in a body of air, it will be more relatively humid (i.e. closer to condensation, "100% humidity") if the air is cold. So in the warm Mediterranean climes of Spain, 73% might mean that there's a lot of water knocking about, and it's warm. In winter in the UK, when you see that it's sub 5 degrees and 73% you know that the gritstone gods are smiling. Normally the cold weather makes the usually moist westerly winds hang around the 80-90% humidity mark. If you were looking solely at the temps you might think it was a perfect connies day, but look out of the window and you might see lots of grey clag hanging around (today is such a day in West Yorkshire).

[Nibile]

Good knowledge, thanks.
Well, recently I've had between 14 and 18 degrees at the board, with humidity ranging from 60 to 73 percent or even more...

[SA Chris]

M- Boulder - 1.5 hrs - felt reasonably strong
T - nuffing
W - Boulder session - 1.5 hrs felt reasonably strong, skin thin after Monday.
T - nuffing
F - AM weigh in - 13st. No idea how I got there, but not complaining.
free bar for Xmas do at work. Reasonably restrained, got 9:15 bus.
S - short walk in morning to clear head (needed a pack of bacon too), boulder comp in afternoon. Dug in, managed a couple of "at limit" probs by the skin of my teeth, and any that shut me down did so with conviction. 2nd in Vets after crimpy Gareth.
S - wasted, arms in bits. Short walk with kids in arvo, and some yoga getting Xmas tree down from loft.

[measles23]

Literally cut and paste from last week, with a few numbers changed...

M- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -8kg x 6s
     2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets up to +20 x 1
     3. Max hangs 2-arm BM2k small crimps 1/2 crimp: 6 sets mostly +30 x 8s

T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag BM2k small crimp: 7 sets up to -12 x 3s
    2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +55 x 1

W- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -6kg x 2s
     2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets up to +20 x 4

T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag Metolius Central rung: 9 sets up to 0 x 5s
    2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +55 x 1
    3. Pulley assist 2-arm bannister pinch hangs: 6 sets mostly -8 x 8s

F-  1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2 crimp: 9 sets up to -7 x 4s
     2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets up to +25 x 1
     3. 2-arm hangs BM2k 1/2 crimp small crimps: 6 sets mostly +35 x 6s

S- Rest

S- Stoke AW: Half a dozen one footed problems up to V3 (yyfy - first true probs since the injury). Half a dozen efforts on moonboard; limited by still being unable to plantarflex meaningfully... (and being fucking terrified of falling off!)
6 sets per side single 1-armers; decent quality
3 sets per side tentative campus drop-downs (3 to 1)
3 x 3 ring dips
 

[Murph]

STG - get my act together.
MTG - just a tiny bit of consistency.
LTG - it was Rubicon 8A but now it may as well be grit 7A.

M-nowt. Kids kept me up half the night.
T-works session. Cold and didn't really find my groove. One arm hangs testing. 8s on middle hold of BM2k vs 3s on outside bottom edge of BM1k.
W-late night. Wasted. Kids.
T-more life getting in the way.
F-ditto
S-pattern forming
S-unexpected session / pass at trackside/gorilla. Story of my life. Felt strong as in I could hang around all day on the crux holds of Early Doors but couldn't move up. No power. I know, climb faster, go for it, try harder etc.

Weight - a colossal 67kgs yesterday. Biggest score since June.

This week's podcast - Jamie Foxx. Not obviously training related (but highly recommended nevertheless) it turns out Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing training than half the members of power club. The habits of successful people, eh?

[Murph]

Zippy's. Eventually it had dried enough to try it. Tweaked beta and sent through to swinging on the final jug, only to dab slightly on a pad  Couldn't repeat, buggered. Definitely will go next time

That's exactly what happened to me when I did it. Had a breakthrough session where I did it with dab a couple of times but couldn't get the tick. It went first or second go a few days later. First 7B it was pretty mental. I knew it would go next session so I spent a few days just sort of cheerfully looking forward to it. Happy memories.

Good luck with next time!

[Coops_13]

Zippy's. Eventually it had dried enough to try it. Tweaked beta and sent through to swinging on the final jug, only to dab slightly on a pad  Couldn't repeat, buggered. Definitely will go next time

That's exactly what happened to me when I did it. Had a breakthrough session where I did it with dab a couple of times but couldn't get the tick. It went first or second go a few days later. First 7B it was pretty mental. I knew it would go next session so I spent a few days just sort of cheerfully looking forward to it. Happy memories.

Good luck with next time!

cheers, not sure I'm cheerfully looking forward to it though...

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Fingers ok, R shoulder improved a bit but still not right - climbing seems to help if anything.
Sleep: Bit poor, need some early nights this week.

M: Bloc, for a go at the comp problems from the weekend. Did all but one of the qualifiers that were still up, they felt hard though! Some fun playing on a few of the finals problems too. (~6.5hrs)
T: TCA, short ish on time but went for last go at the yellow that had eluded me - great conditions and went fairly quick. Really pleased to finish this circuit off - generally an indicator im going pretty well. had a few goes getting the moves done on the new 8b ish wood circuit after - will be very hard link for me though, with 7A+/B crux a couple of moves from the end and no rests I can use. (~6hrs)
W: nothing. (~6.5hrs)
T: TCA, new hard circuit up (white). Def a bit softer than the previous (yellow), always a fun first session on these - lots of stuff 6C-7A+ ish. 8 to go. (~6.5hrs)
F: Nothing, picked up truly enormous piece of cow. (~7hrs)
S: Neath Abbey, really beautiful day, great nick. I'm mostly gap filling here now, but managed a couple of 7A's I'd not done before, and got up Der Pateshed 7C? (final variation finish of Der Pater I'd not done yet) which I was pretty happy with as I'd not repeated the crux moves since the LH starting hold broke last winter. (~7hrs)
S: cook, shop, cook, drink, eat. Great massive roast with mates (~6hrs)

Good week. didn't feel great on the Bloc comp problems, but happy to finish the hard circuit at TCA before they were reset, big session on the new hard whites, and ace day out in the winter sun.

?kg not weighed in this week - prob heavy given how much I ate on Sunday...

[cheque]

Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing basic strength training than half the members of power club.

[TobyD]

Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing basic strength training than half the members of power club.

Yup. Not totally irrelevant but very little correlation between being able to smash out hundreds of these exercises and being able to climb hard.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 min LI-Aerocap

Board -  Trying random problems for 1.5hr.

10 min LI-Aerocap

W: Rest

T: Boardroom - Random easy problems for 10 minutes.

Tried some harder ones for 20mins.

First time on an official Moonboard - Easy problems = nails.

Managed 2 x 6B+ and one 6C. Tried some other stuff too, awesome set up and holds.

10 mins LI-Aerocap

F - S: Rest/DIY/House stuff.

[galpinos]

I've been told I'm tall...

...and lanky Tom, and lanky. Don't forget that bit.