[36chambers]

M:
T: 50 board. Ridiculously busy, but I still managed to have a good session. Improving on the smaller holds. Piecing together an established hard "board 8grade" problem which consists of 5 moves of which I can just do the easiest. Can barely hold the positions, so have been making up similar easier problems using some of the holds to get use to them.
W:
T: 50 board. Very good session. Made light work of some problems that use to feel hard. 
F:
S: Cliff. Supporting GF on DWR. Played around on pointless eliminates.
S: Zoo York. Finally tried the top section which was reassuringly fine. Have officially done all the moves now. Cut loose move feeling fine, made better links than last session and everything felt easier in general. Had some feeble attempts from the start, but good progress overall.

[Duma]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Fingers ok, R shoulder still not right - trying to change posture at work but habits hard to break...
Sleep: lots over the weekend, so feeling ok.

Really can't remember much from last week
M: TCA on new whites, think finished off all but three. (~6hrs)
T: nowt. (~6.5hrs)
W: TCA, tired and poor session, did finish one more white though, 2 hard ones to go. (~7hrs)
T: TCA, very brief, still knackered but did a 7a+ ish circuit and then bimbled round about half the reds (5+ to 6B)(~6.5hrs)
F: nowt, work then picked up daughter. (~7.5hrs)
S: nowt. (~8hrs)
S: TCA afternoon with daughter, nice as haven't got to take her much since summer. Managed to do a bit myself too - comp problems from sat, did all but 2, not much impression on those though (not many attempts either though). Ran out of time to try finals. (~7.5hrs)

Really tired during week - fun to play on whites but weds and thurs sessions were pretty compromised by sleep. Caught up now but not ideal.

70kg 

[nai]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

Yeah interesting but surely the big question is:

M. Went out xmas tree hustling in a forest above Belfst.
T. Flew back from NI.

How do you get an xmas tree on a plane?

[andy_e]

Through the cabin door, obviously.

[Murph]

If HFLC means High Fat, Low Carbs then that's what I've been doing

Yeah that's what I meant. I've never tried it, but was intrigued by all the HFLC/keto stuff going around these days, so listened to the Neil Gresham interview where he said it made weight loss effortless, he just wasn't hungry, and his friend who tried it said it made him "into a weapon".

Sounds ideal but bread and social and stuff. Might get stuck in after Christmas but there's more than one way to skin a cat.



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[nai]

If you're the sort of person who only eats when they're hungry then it could work for you, if you like to pick then you end up grazing on some very calorie dense foods which add up very quickly.  Use a diet app like MyFitnessPal to keep track.

Gresh and DMC had good results because they did a lot of research and did it properly, I suspect my failing was doing half a job.

[nai]

goals - 

Dec - Feb proper training now hopefully

2017 - Powerplant, Raindogs, Nemesis, Anger Management, 7c onsight, E6.

Mon -
AM - Yoga class- good, enjoyed it, neck felt good afterwards.
PM - meant to try a gentle progression from repeaters to max hangs but got a bit carried away and ended up going all out.

Tue -
3x10mins LI AeroCap then spent just over an hour on circuits at the Works working out which ones will be best for AeroPow sessions.

Neck feels fucked again. Feel sure I've torn the Trap.

Wed - housework day. Slight delay after becoming irrationally angry with shark when he announced he was going scraping around for something to climb in such obviously rank conditions. Soon passed.

20 minutes beginners youtube yoga  PM

Thu
3x10mins LI AeroCap
2x20 mins youtube yoga (Warrior Strength (bit hard) & flexibility)

Fri -  Deep Tissue massage. Trap tear theory immediately dismissed.  A shed load of stiffness and knots found in shoulders and back, masseuse seemed genuinely surprised at the extent of knots, both in number and the size of some of them. Lots of the deep lying smaller muscles in a bad, bad way. Progress made though and booked in again for next week.

For anyone interested this is attributed to a number of bad habits that many if us probably fall into:

1. Not warming down properly after hard sessions.
We all know we should flush and stretch hard worked muscles but there's often not time or not inclination, keep trying as hard as we can then jump in the car and head home. I'll warm down next time....

2. Lack of supplementary exercises, antagonistics etc.

3. Not enough rest between hard sessions.
Further breaking down already broken down muscle before it's had chance to repair.  Again, an obvious thing and I should know better

4. Not enough non-climbing intervals throughout a climbing year/career.
Mustn't stop, I'll lose everything I've worked so hard for....

He also noted that my shoulders (boids and traps rather than delts) are underdeveloped so I will rely heavily on Lats when climbing, and suggested some exercises to address that.

Anyway I was sent home being warned I'd be sore for a few days so to take protein, use heat on the areas and to stretch, so:

Eve - 20 mins flexibility yoga

Sat - SORE! 20 minutes flexibility

Sun hungover  - couple of hours at mini works with daughter then supplemental weights back home

[SA Chris]

Su Horrible hangover... got into the bad books as I was due to look after TTjnr whilst MrsTT went on her Xmas boozing but was incapable so she had to take the bairn with her...

Sucks breath in through clenched teeth ...

Indeed. How is the doghouse this time of year? Chilly?

I remember our first NCT group headwetting night out, got utterly wankered and had to go out for a walk next morning with wife and new child in snowy wonderland with him in baby bjorn and me wondering if I vomited on the back of the baby bjorn if the vomit washed out as easily as the front. Saturday night 6 of the 7 of the original group were out together, 7 years to the day after the arrival of the first child.

[filz]

M: planks, weights
T: ring planks
W: Can't remember. Probably some theraband exercises during lunch break
T: Bouldering on rock after a while. Not bad.
F: Nothing
S: Working on my board. Removed all holds, cleaned up and set up my new wood holds. This week I will put in place all the holds. Psyched to try new problems
S: Bouldering. Conditions were not good. Some easy stuff then tried a 7c. I could barely do a couple of moves

[Nibile]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

[filz]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

[petejh]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

I know, it's mental what hasn't been developed. N.I. The new Yorkshire.

[Nibile]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

I was sure.
Nevermind, in this case it's very simple. All you have to do for a quick ascent, is simply using all the holds of the adjacent problem, like all the other ascensionists have done, and then you can also call Islero soft. That's how they roll these days.

[petejh]

I've also, ummm... found an undeveloped Kilnsey. No exaggeration. One of the top 4 sport crags in the UK (Malham, Kilnsey, Diamond, 'X') hasn't even been developed yet. Unbelievable what's out there. Development starts next weekend. Hahahahaha yyfy!

wtf?!?! Wales or NI?

Yeah interesting but surely the big question is:

M. Went out xmas tree hustling in a forest above Belfst.
T. Flew back from NI.

How do you get an xmas tree on a plane?

Big coat.

I find it's nice to spruce up after a flight.

[measles23]

first campus session

At last!

69kg
Lighter week due to fatigue - mostly 2 session days

M- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -7kg x 5s
     2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets mostly +10 x 4s

T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag Metolius Central rung: 8 sets including a bunch of 0 x 5s
    2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +55 x 2

W- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -6kg x 4s
     2. 2-arm hangs BM2k 1/2 crimp small crimps: 7 sets mostly +40 x 3s

T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag variety of holds: 10 sets up to +5 x 5s
    2. Weighted pull-ups/one-armers: 6 sets up to +55 x 1 + 4 single 1-armers per side

F-  1. Max hangs BM2k small crimps 1/2 crimp: 10 sets up to +50 x 4s
     2. Max hangs BM2k small crimps open crimp: 6 sets up to +40 x 2s
     3. Max hangs BM2k small crimps full crimp:  8 sets mostly +30 x 5s

S- Rest

S- Stoke AW: Handful one footed problems up to V3; other half climbing well, as was the boy - we're all pretty much at the same level now!
Handful of efforts on moonboard; have worked out a decent sequence to train on.
6 sets per side single 1-armers; decent quality
3 sets per side campus drop-downs (small rung 4 to 1)
3 x 3 ring dips

Half-way through my sick leave so time for half-term appraisal of the high frequency deadhanging:
45 fingerboard and 13 weighted pull-up/1-armer sessions in 5 weeks; all low volume/ high intensity (for me)
Body seems to have adapted well; no injuries/tweekiness; elbows and fingers fine - no obvious degradation, just a very slow incremental increase in max lifts. Overall a 10% increase in finger strength; not earth-shattering but I'd done a fair amount of fingerboarding and had reached my lifetime plateau before starting this program, so v chuffed to have broken plateau..

Would love to reach a 20% uplift, as that would equal 1-arming the BM2k small crimp in open crimp, and should translate into a meaningful difference on rock, so shall continue with the program (excepting obligatory Christmas "deload" week..)
 

[nai]

I find it's nice to spruce up after a flight.

Fir sure

[Murph]

S- Rest

At last!

Strong work Matt and some big training numbers there. Impressive use of your forced layoff.



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[filz]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

I was sure.
Nevermind, in this case it's very simple. All you have to do for a quick ascent, is simply using all the holds of the adjacent problem, like all the other ascensionists have done, and then you can also call Islero soft. That's how they roll these days.

Ok.. Next time I will try cheating

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk

[Nibile]

Some easy stuff then tried a 7c.

Which one?

Islero.

I was sure.
Nevermind, in this case it's very simple. All you have to do for a quick ascent, is simply using all the holds of the adjacent problem, like all the other ascensionists have done, and then you can also call Islero soft. That's how they roll these days.

Ok.. Next time I will try cheating

Inviato dal mio Nexus 6P utilizzando Tapatalk

No you won't. Because you know that if you try to, I'll suddenly spring out from behind the problem and break a few of your bones. 

[shark]

Maybe you need to think back to Autumn 2015, what motivated you then and what did you do that worked?

didn't he go to canada and get whipped into shape by habrich?

The main losses were achieved after I came back putting into practice the ascetic learnings of the Habrich.

Might the other contribution have been the shitloads of "easy" trad? Grand Wall, Freeway, etc. AeroCap with added soul?

I have looked back through my diary entries to see if I can glean what made the difference compared to this year and it isn't obvious. I was stronger this year but motivationally I think you could be on to something. From being in the pits of despair from burning my hand inApril and low expectations coming to Squamish (took 3 sessions to do Sardine when I started climbing again - formerly a warm up route) I then had a great time with you and got a lot of volume in then lost 7lbs when I got back and had a head start on theOak as it was quite cool at the tail end of the summer and good go up with Tommy who was still on summer hols. Hitting new high points then gave me an extra surge of enthusiasm in the autumn. This year there hasn't been quite the same excitement

[galpinos]

This year there hasn't been quite the same excitement

I imagine something like a bespoke training rung would help. Maybe ask Santa.......

[tomtom]

This year there hasn't been quite the same excitement

I imagine something like a bespoke training rung would help. Maybe ask Santa.......

With climb faster embossed on them! Winner!

[nai]

Unfortunately hanging faster won't help...

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[Luke Owens]

M: Boardroom - Progressively harder boulders as a warm-up. Moonboard, 2 x 6B+ and 6C tried varioud other problems.

T: Lunch: 30 mins Core

Eve: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

Board - Repeated an easy-ish problem and came up with a bunch of others. Also changed around some holds as the majority were small holds, need to work on big moves on big holds.

10 mins LI-Aerocap

W: 30 mins Core

T: Pillbox Wall - Tried Pill Box Original (nails) could only do the first 2 moves. Tried Mr Whippy and got some good foot beta, final throw feels miles, will try and use the more static undercut method next time. Few throws on Chocolate Wall.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Sheep Pen Boulders - 6A, 6B+/C, 6C+, 6C+, few goes on KoR which has been downgraded to 6C+, felt nails.