[monkoffunk]

What are your thoughts on ripping out the TCA woody and replacing it with a moon board? Has generated a small flurry of attention on the TCA facebook page, some positive and a fair bit negative. Wonder if there is general consensus one way or the other? Do enough people care?

[Duma]

As a bristol boulderer who uses TCA, I think it's a real shame they can't find space to put a Moonboard in without taking out the woody, but as I've said on fb, it's the least used bit of wall in there, and if more people use the mb then I suppose it'll be considered a success. Be nice if they could put it where the ex-mirrorboard is, but the hold wash is behind that so don't think it'd fit. Should also say I don't actually use the woody regularly so it's loss won't directly impact on me.

[monkoffunk]

Likewise I'm only a visitor to Bristol these days. Do you think a moon board would get more use? I do like TCA and the people who work there, don't want to seem like a dick, but still, do think it's a big shame.

[cha1n]

Firstly, I'd like to keep the woody. Wouldn't bother me if it moved somewhere else in the centre or to UCR, so long as the dimensions were kept the same.

I really like the idea of the moonboard but have heard some negative comments about the holds from a fair few different people. Can anyone who uses the moonboard or know of people that have used it give some feedback on it please?

[SA Chris]

I've used a friend's Moon board. I think it would be of great benefit if you climb at the 7B-8A mark; all the hold are poor, it's steep and very core intensive.

I also think you need to have a healthy dose of OCD to follow the problems as they are described on the web. I'm personally used to working problems set in a specific colour, so would often get a bit lost trying to do hands for feet, and look down at a sea of footholds trying to remember which one I'm supposed to use.

[Duma]

Well the led thing should solve that?

[cha1n]

It looked to me like you'd only be able to see the holds above you if the lights are in the t-nut holds, probably won't be visible for foot placements at that angle but just a guess.

[andy_e]

How about just learning which holds a problem uses? Surely this is good mental training for things like remembering and refining beta on a problem, or getting sequences wired?

[cha1n]

How about just learning which holds a problem uses? Surely this is good mental training for things like remembering and refining beta on a problem, or getting sequences wired?

For the record, I agree with this^. Was just suggesting that the lights probably wouldn't help for spotting footholds.

[highrepute]

How did this work out, getting used much? They just got one at the foundry, Sheffield.

[Hugh]

How did this work out, getting used much? They just got one at the foundry, Sheffield.

It's being used, possibly slightly more than the woody that was there before; the db of problems seems to be the key attraction. I see quite a few having a quick go, although mostly the same crowd as the old woody using it on a more regular basis.

I've had some quite fun sessions on it, but it's too savage on the skin (for me at least) to use more often. Still not as good as the woody it replaced imo, but decent enough.

[Bouldering Ben]

The Moon board didn't look straight when I saw it. The lines of bolts are parallel with each other but are noticeably not level horizontally.