[Nibile]

Hey guys, for the annual edition of Up-Climbing magazine, they are running a series of monographs on hystorical routes, and of course one of them will be about Hubble.
I will be cooperating with the author of the monograph, so to do something "new" I though about telling some anecdotes about the route itself, how it came to be, the stories behing its ascents and ascentionists, you know, the kind of stuff that you recall in front of a few pints.
The Epic.

Thanks a lot for your contributions.

[standard]

how about....no one who has actually repeated it has said it's 9a?
How did that discussion even come about?

* standard hides behind sofa.

[Doylo]

 

how about....no one who has actually repeated it has said it's 9a?
How did that discussion even come about?

* standard hides behind sofa.

William Bosi said he thought it was 9a.

[dave]

Got given 9a in the new guide.

Megos said 8c+ didn't he, and to be honest he's the one most qualified to comment.

[T_B]

In Grimer's podcast Megos wouldn't be drawn on a French grade and said a bouldering grade is more appropriate as the hard bit is 6 moves.

Given his comments about the Frankenjura/German scene, I doubt it's a case of him not saying 9a so that AD is recorded in the history books as 9a. I don't reckon he thinks it's that hard or 9a, but is being polite as he's a jolly nice chap.

[galpinos]

In Grimer's podcast Megos wouldn't be drawn on a French grade and said a bouldering grade is more appropriate as the hard bit is 6 moves.

Given his comments about the Frankenjura/German scene, I doubt it's a case of him not saying 9a so that AD is recorded in the history books as 9a. I don't reckon he thinks it's that hard or 9a, but is being polite as he's a jolly nice chap.

Beat me to it! I thought he came over really well in that, not the German automaton I had imagined.

[SA Chris]

They aren't all in Kraftwerk you know.

I assume you have links to all the interviews with repeaters and high profile failures?

[Monolith]

Didn't Johnny G have his wife belay him on it? She might have a few anecdotes...

[dave]

I thought the G hubble anecdote was he was driven to the crag early doors by his dad with the G kipping on the back seat. Does this mean it was pappa-G belaying, or was it a full family outing?

[Nibile]

Yes, exactly, we are interested in unknown anectodes, nothing that already appeared in other interviews.
Everything that constitues the aura that surround the route.

[rodma]

One evening many years ago in a dingy pub in the north of Edinburgh, two of the three ascensionists ( Ben and Malc) had a drink together. The pub  was completely unaware and unaffected by the event. :D

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[Moo]

What will it take for the uk sport climbing scene to get past Hubble?

[T_B]

An ascent by Shark?

[Ru]

In Grimer's podcast Megos wouldn't be drawn on a French grade and said a bouldering grade is more appropriate as the hard bit is 6 moves.

Yes, he's probably being polite. Given that the Frankenjura is spiritual home of the bolted boulder with a route grade, I'd have thought he would be comfortable with the concept.

[Will Hunt]

I've not seen Hubble in the flesh. Is the landing too poor to pad out? Or is the hard bit too high? Perhaps it needs to be highballed, given 8B, and then we can all move on to gushing about some hard climbing.

[dave]

The landing under hubble is a sort of sloping area of small steps. Don't think it's unpaddable, but with crux moves on undercuts, feet high, I bet you could fire off backwards and take some uncontrolled falls. But it's got bolts so literally no reason to do this. You'd also have to get down from the Revelations belay, which would require a harness and rope anyway.

[Nibile]

Plus, it's already been done:
http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html
 

[slackline]

Yes, exactly, we are interested in unknown anectodes, nothing that already appeared in other interviews.
Everything that constitues the aura that surround the route.

If the anecdotes are not widely known then how can they be adding to the aura of the route? 

[Wood FT]

The landing under hubble is a sort of sloping area of small steps. Don't think it's unpaddable, but with crux moves on undercuts, feet high, I bet you could fire off backwards and take some uncontrolled falls.

Yep, I reckon falling off sans cord all crimped up in those undercuts would leave you somewhere near cheedale.

[Falling Down]

Yes, exactly, we are interested in unknown anectodes, nothing that already appeared in other interviews.
Everything that constitues the aura that surround the route.

If the anecdotes are not widely known then how can they be adding to the aura of the route? 

There are anecdotal anecdotes, a bit like unknown unknowns.

[slackline]

There are anecdotal anecdotes

Ah, I get it, gossip.

[BID]

Plus, it's already been done:
http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html
 

Who is this? Am I being dim?

[shark]

An ascent by Shark?

  That was between you and me. I climb for myself not public recognition. Its not a competition. Now everyone will just be after proof, proof, proof. Its pathetic. Stuff them all. It is the beauty of the line that interests me. And the MOVE. The hard work paid off. It was amazing the way it all came together on the day. I'm just happy knowing I've done it. And that's enough 

[Wood FT]

An ascent by Shark?

  That was between you and me. I climb for myself not public recognition. Its not a competition. Now everyone will just be after proof, proof, proof. Its pathetic. Stuff them all. It is the beauty of the line that interests me. And the MOVE. The hard work paid off. It was amazing the way it all came together on the day. I'm just happy knowing I've done it. And that's enough

8c+ or 9a?

[Muenchener]

You'd also have to get down from the Revelations belay, which would require a harness and rope anyway.

How did M. le Menestrel do it then?