I have seen good results doing 1 rep max training (up to 35% body weight added), but this weekend will be week 8 of the training so I am thinking of switching to a Strength Endurance phase for a 4 week block after a rest week next week.
With regards to fingerboard pyramid training, eg
http://nicros.com/training/training-articles/fingerboard-pyramid-training/What are people's thoughts on the holds to use?
Eric Hörst article suggests using the same hold, but I have also seen advice to start off on the poorest hold you can hang comfortably for 20 full seconds on, and then move to a better hold etc. So as the hang times get longer the holds get better, and then as you work back down the pyramid the holds worsen as the time shortens?
Thanks
Just in case anyone is interested, or it adds to the discussion
I currently flash v3 to v4 bouldering, have worked up to v6, currently flash 6c/6c+ sport, have got a few 7a and one 7a+
my previous 8 weeks of training looked like
Mon - Boulder (strength)
Tues - Yoga/core
Weds - Redpoint routes (strength endurance)
Thurs - Weight pull ups (strength)
Fri - Core
Sat - Weighted 1RM fingerboarding (strength)
Sun - Core
Plan for next 4 weeks or so
Mon - Boulder (strength)
Tues - Yoga/core
Weds - Redpoint routes (strength endurance)
Thurs - 20 min on the min unweighted pull ups (strength endurance)
Fri - Core
Sat - Fingerboard pyramid training (strength endurance)
Sun - Core