[Doylo]

Agree with TB. When the heads gone it's time for a break. You can't pound something that's so hard for you into submission. Very rarely works like that.

[Luke Owens]

Felt like I hadn't done much this week but looking back I did quite a bit. Enjoying the training but missing the real thing, maybe do a lamplight bouldering sesh one eve this week instead of the wall and aim to get out on the proj next weekend. Fingers crossed for good weather and finding a partner!

M: 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

T: Equipping, added a few bolts to make proj more comfortable and easier to work. Also added a direct finish from the start, looks just as good as the main proj, finishes up a slab on verdon-esque dimple/pockets. Also added a small handline to the cave from the ab-in to avoid the mud death slope when the ground is wet.

W: 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

Attempting the proj replica from the first crux to the rest (16 moves) with a 3 minute rest between goes, fell off move 14 three times and got to the end once.

F: Rest

S: Family illness prevented plans to get on proj, fireworks at Chester Racecourse in the eve with the kids.

S: Plas Power - 10 mins LI-Aerocap

Tried 7A on the Moonboard off the app, felt nails, couldn't do some of the moves, need to set some of the easier problems off the app.

Did proj replica first crux to rest twice to the end (16moves) fell off move 14 three times. 3 mins rest between goes.

4 x 1:30min (~25moves) on 2min off - HI-Aerocap

10 mins LI-Aerocap

[nai]

Fri - car packed with a sea of foam, flask filled and lunch made. All set for a return to eatswood to iron out the rail match and get some links done. Then 20 minutes before school opens a message arrives saying they have no water and it's shut for the day.  Spent the day in a bit of a huff.

Same effin thing happened again today.  Was feeling quite sorry for myself til I saw measle's post. Good luck with your recovery.

And Simon, also think you've done the right thing canning it for the year.  moose sums up how I feel too, feel like I should still be throwing myslef at bits of the Tor while it's dry but I've been going at it since March and just can't force myself to turn up any more.  Give those fingers a rets so you can do some effective training ahead of Spring. No point limping through, working around tweeks, that won't help long-term.

[Dolly]

Shark - I agree with the leaving it for this year brigade. Dont beat yourself up about it. Come back in the Spring, stronger and psyched.
T_B. First move on LHM is OK if you're as tall as you. As with a lot of this problem there's a knack.  I can post beta if you want - but will hold off in case you'd prefer to not to do it like that.


M nothing apart from scooting to school and back which probably isnt permissable as a power club entry so I wont mention it again
T Lagerstarfish and I had planned to go to Stanage but it was raining the morning  . Dried up by lunchtime and I'm not quite sure why but I went to Black Rocks. The last time I went there was 84 I think and I'll probably leave it another 32 years before my next visit. Lots of litter, some graffiti, limestone scree at the bottom of the crag (WTF?) and a noisy quarry over the other side of the valley. I did Hat Trick which was all over a bit quickly then left. Went to look at Back Street Abortionist on the way home, but I need a spot to commit to the move on the ex chicken head. Did that easy arete problem which was very good
W Had to go into work for a bit then for some reason I decided to go to the far end of Rivelin Quarries. I wasted the time I had thrashing through undergrowth, getting hot and frustrated only to get to the problems at the end to find they were green, overgrown and would need work before being climbable. Sacked it off
T Met TT at Gardoms. Failed on Perfect Day direct start and Bin Ladens cave, despite having my hands over the top. Now I knwo what to do hoping for a return to these 2 this week. Skin and body trashed.
F HIT, but I was knackered from Thursday
S
S After talking to TT about the real benefits of them I did some weighted max hangs. Quite hard arent they ?

[duncan]

STG: Don’t get injured. Allow full recovery from cold.  Shoulder maintenance exercises twice weekly. Steep bouldering or fingerboard twice weekly.
MTG: project a 7b
LTG: Font 7A. 7b+. E5/5.12 trad. Something properly long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).

Week 348 -
Week 349 -

S - Fingerboard ‘warm-up’.
M - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
T -
W - Westway fridge bouldering to ~V3.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Fingerboard ‘warm-up’: repeater-style short hangs on the 45, 20 and 15mm edges. Carved plugs to create a 25mm deep slot: the BM1000 always feels like there is a gap between the 45mm and 20mm. Sad to be indoors when it looked so glorious but not fit for 6 hours of driving and a day in the cold, badly miss not living nearer real rock at times like this.
S - Stroll in Epping Forest. Surprisingly knackered afterwards.


Easing back into things after a bad cold. 70% better but anything involving large muscles for any time still leaves me very tired. 2kg heavier than two months ago and >3kg more than ideal. On the positive side, 9 months after (probably) avulsing a collateral ligament, my middle finger now tolerates some easy finger-boarding. I’d really love to do a good winter of strength training, the obvious thing to address my biggest weakness and break the current plateau. Slightly dispirited by events outside climbing and feels like I’ve missed the boat this autumn but I’ve just booked a sport trip for February and other ideas germinating for the spring/summer. measles23 puts my minor woes into context; hope the recovery goes to plan.

Plan: two strength sessions per week (fingerboard, bouldering, projecting), easy does it to begin with. Add more supportive exercises as general health allows.

[cheque]

limestone scree at the bottom of the crag (WTF?)

It's from lead mining in the 18th (I think?) century. BR's on a very small area of grit right on the edge of the limestone.

[Nibile]

NNFN

Jesuschrist, so sorry for that!
Glad it didn't happen while deadlifting, or I would have felt a bit responsible!
Anyway hats off to you, it seems that you took it on the chin like bad mofo.
All the best, heal soon!

[Will Hunt]

Bit of a lazy week. Only a day out on Saturday to report. Went up to Barden Fell and came back down three split tips the richer after pottering on the usual circuit of problems. Didn't do anything new but was still a great day out. Hooked up with a big crew from Sheffield including danm, JB, Duncan Campbell and others which was good craic 

[Fiend]

Just not enjoying it any more over the last three sessions years.

Enjoy the winter's training tho. JB called the grit well.....

[tommytwotone]

Not much to report here - I was going to complain about some elbow (Tennis? General tendonitis maybe) trouble that has flared up since a foot slip at the wall a couple of weeks back. Then I read measles' post so I'll leave it at that.


Oh, and I thwarted an attempted break-in at my house last night when I was kipping on the sofa in the living room...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Dolomites, third day on, perfect conditions. Took it easy then summoned all my physical and mental strength and climbed my project. Perfect. I am a machine.
Tue - still sunny and perfect, dammit. Drove home.
Wed - boxing bag.
Thu - anti-rotation work, trap work. Climbing class.
Fri - rest. Achey.
Sat - board climbing, too tired for bouldering. Matched past PB on circuit! YYFY!!! Dumbbell complex (speed) x3.
Sun - low int. PE, 30/30, 1/1, 30/30 x5 all completed, amazing progress!!!

Well, a great week. Climbed my project in the Dolomites and made good progress on my circuit project. I feel that I'm on the right track. PE is really improving, added another 30/30 set at the usual session. Chuffed.
I think that some rest is due.

[Murph]

I did some weighted max hangs. Quite hard arent they ?

To paraphrase that Mike Mentzer quote: anyone who thinks max hangs are easy, is wrong.

Great way to spend an evening though IMO. Certainly beats getting your arse handed to you on your project again (+1 to "take a break from it shark and get the love back").....or breaking your leg (mend well measles23 - you put all us drama queens in place!!)

[filz]

Measles good luck with your recovery.

Shark I'll have my say too  Take some days rest and then try again with a good recruiting session the day before.

M: front lever proressions
T: climbing. 2 goes on a 7a+. The first was not bad. In the second I got all the foot sequence wrong
W: fb repetaers during lunch break. Yoga in the evening
T: abs work: crunches, hanging leg raises, dragon flags. Dumbbell complex: clean, press, squat
F: isometrics weight training. Then something else I don't remember
S: board climbing on nib's board
S: theraband excercises for shoulders

[tomtom]

Christ Measles - that looks gruesome... hope it heals straightforward and fast. You sound pretty chipper considering :-/

Shark. Shark shark shark shark shark. Plenty of advice above, so I recommend doing whatever makes you happy

M: Work

Tu: Work > Hull wall in the evening. Much to my annoyance they'd got rid of some of the 7A/+'s I'd been trying and replaced them with other 7A/+'s that largely felt impossible. Upstairs were still some of the older problems and I recovered some pride on those.

We: I've forgotten... lots of driving I think...

Th: Gardoms with Dolly. Good session. Got to within tickling distance of the second crimpy edge on Perfect Day - though was taking a 'french start' to a new level by french starting from the block to the right Very much enjoyed it. Transferring weight onto the toe to share then powering up felt like great moves. As per Dolly, I reached the final jugs on Bin Ladens and failed to top out. Retired a quivering wreck

Fr: Looking after baby day..

Sa: Drove to Beris early. Amazed it only took 1hr 20 min from home... I should go to N.Wales more often its well within striking range... Met up with fried Neil and we set off to do the Horseshoe. Pass car park was full, so parked at the Cromlech and hoiked it overland to meet up with the Pyg track (I think)... Crib Goch was entertaining, strong gusty northerly wind and sporadic hail showers.. no hands and knees moments, but mostly crouched and lots of shuffling across. Good fun. Neil, who lives in Cambridge and in his own words "the highest thing I've crossed on foot in a year is a hump backed bridge" found it a bit trickier. Fuck me - there were hundreds out on Snowdon... didnt bother with the summit - had some food in the shelter of the (closed) railway cafe... was quite nasty on the top, snow on top of rime all over the blocks and paths. Lots to twats in trainers skating about all over the place.. tricky descent then the rest was easy/enjoyable. Cheesy Chips (or Chips and CHeese?) in Petes, couple of beers in the Heights followed by a Curry and bed. Excellent.

Su: Went out for a potter below Cwm Idwal - ended up questing towards Tryfan as legs felt in good shape. Gave up at the shoulder between Tryfan and the Glyders due to driving sleet/snow and having seen the connies on top of Snowdon the day before didnt fancy skating about without some cramps. Looped back, got soaking wet - cup of tea and a pastie and home. Great weekend.

Somehow manged to put on 3lbs despite walking 25-30km... (and lots of up and down)... 

[webbo]

Mon. Board 30 warm up problems the repeaters with 39.25lbs added. Bike 61.23 miles 3 hrs 35 mins.
Tue. Turbo 50 mins.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Dentist apparently I've got an infected tooth, prescribed anti biotics. As usually get the shits. Board did 4 problems I couldn't do last week.
Fri. Feel rough, went for a ride couldn't tell if it was hard due to the wind and cold temps or it was due to antibiotics. 44.84 miles 2 hrs 38 mins.
Sat. Board trying projects, still feel shit.
Sun. Feel even worse.

[shark]

Shark. Shark shark shark shark shark. Plenty of advice above, so I recommend doing whatever makes you happy

Crag X made me happy today - still buzzing. Mint condition. Had 5 solid hours on JR. Worked the top initially and linked to top from LH on small intermediate crimp and right hand on rail. Then did progressively higher redpoints with best goes going for slot with left hand. Didnt fade throughout and last go was one of the best. Dont know where this session stamina has come from - I'm normally done in after three hours.

[Doylo]

Is it T-Shirt weather in the peak?? It's freezing here ..

[tomtom]

Good effort there. Nice heel toe.

Climb faster

[shark]

Is it T-Shirt weather in the peak?? It's freezing here ..

4/5 degrees but no wind. Had to wrap up between goes and go back to the car a couple of times to keep warm

[dave]

I wouldn't usually advocate this Shark but I know some folk on JR after matching the rail I think get left heel on the big LH hold (the one you get after 2 moves) which gets them through the top bit with a relatively solid foot. You could probably cross into the high slot off the rail with heel up.

[dave]

and lo....

[36chambers]

M: Lunch yoga. Full body workout avec deadlifts
T: Almscliff. First session trying to link Keelhaul 8A. Had one go from start to pockets slap then Farmer Gedden arrived.
W: half of W7 gym ball core, more deadlifts
T: Indoors. Felt weak and fatigued and struggled with easy 50 board problems. So spent the session getting use to some of the heinous crimpy holds.
F: Afternoon at Caley. Despite feeling weak got to a new high point on Crystal Method 7B+ and Blockbuster 7B. Also reacquainted myself with Zoo York 8A and could effectively do the first toe hook move statically every time! On paper the day sounds more successful than it actually was.
S: Brimham. Completely chickened out of the last move on Belly Porkers Progress 7B a few times. I suspect it's actually a very easy move. Ended the day on To Me To You 7C and having previously written it off as being too reachy it may be a Goa after all.
S:

Think I'm currently troughing, going to take it easy this week. 

[jfdm]

Measles,
Take care and get better soon.

[measles23]

Thanks for all the good vibes and supportive texts folks it means a lot.. Thanks too for editing the photo - amazing what seems appropriate after half a litre of oramorph!

Nothing to do now for 6 weeks apart from applying deadlift science to the fingerboard 

and ask the obvious question what would Jerry do?:


Have a good winter season all

[shark]

I wouldn't usually advocate this Shark but I know some folk on JR after matching the rail I think get left heel on the big LH hold (the one you get after 2 moves) which gets them through the top bit with a relatively solid foot. You could probably cross into the high slot off the rail with heel up.

Cheers Dave - I was aware of the left heel but was put off that it wasn't the done thing as well as having high risk of a nasty sideways fall. TT also tells me that you should match the flake though most seem to jump off just holding the crimp and flake. Hope the heel toe is OK.