I was wondering about this the other day...
Would you use different fingerboard routines depending on what you were training for?
For example, the 7:3 repeaters if you were training for sport/trad climbing and max hangs if you are training for bouldering.
I know in theory training max hangs should help for endurance too as you're not working as hard on each hold, but I'd be interested in people's opinions/experience.
I've done both, and tend to 'enjoy' the max hangs more, possibly because I get bored with repeaters
but wanted to know what would be best (I'm mostly a trad climber when I'm outside)