I dislocated my elbow maybe 3 years ago, and at the time, I got a nerve impingement test (electrical current thing), which found some nerve impingement, but not enough to recommend any treatment. Recently, the outside of my hand on that side has become kind of numb all the time, sometimes painful, and also the skin on the little finger has gone really dry and sore, and I am unable to fully straighten it some of the time. I'm wondering whether this could be related to the elbow injury. It is kind of sore on the back on my elbow (I can't rest it on a desk etc) though the joint itself is fine for climbing etc. That elbow does look larger than the other one, suggesting to me that there has been some bone growth after the injury which could be meaning there is less space for the nerves to travel through the joint? I don't really know how to go about getting it checked out though. I have a GP, but they're not really any use for things that aren't really really simple or really really serious as they are massively oversubscribed. I can't imagine they could do anything about that either. Who would you approach for this kind of thing? Do you think that the problem is likely damage from the dislocation, and what (if anything) could be done about it? Thanks very much.
Hi This is referred from your shoulder or neck. I assume it is a shoulder control problem that is an issue with certain wide holds as it is fine normally. A muscle injury would be more consistent. If its was 'super painful' you might have had a neck/nerve irritation that slowly improved but only caused problems with certain positions. Stretch you neck and strengthen your shoulder but continue climbing. Strengthen the shoulder in positions that reproduce your symptoms i.e. wide moves above head hight but do both pulling and pushing type exercise. Thanks Steve H
What to do? I suspect you need to get the problem assessed by someone. The first port of call is your GP but if that is not helping ask them to refer you to a physiotherapist or even Neurologist if the numbness is persistent.
Quote from: nai on October 24, 2016, 11:07:43 amExcellent, glad this thread is back.I currently have a niggle which manifests mostly in my neck which feels tight and stiff, get a bit of discomfort in the back left when turning my head, can't turn it as far to the left as I can the right. Feel the discomfort turning it either way.The discomfort manifests in trapezius, deltoid and inside of the elbow on the left too.Symptoms feel better once warmed up and engaged in activity than when cold or inactive.Feel a bit weaker than normal on my left-hand side, not just in climbing related activities, e.g. struggled to lift my bike over a stile with my left arm whereas it's straightforward with my right.Hi Nai This sounds like you are irritating a nerve on the left hand side of your neck. The pain into your deltoid, traps etc are probably referred pain as is the problem with your elbow. I assume you sit at work so correct your sitting position and stretch your thoracic spine (lost of upper back rotation). Stand regularly and reach up to the ceiling. If this does not improve over the next few weeks you might need to see a physio. If the weakness in your left arm deteriorated see your GP.Steve
Excellent, glad this thread is back.I currently have a niggle which manifests mostly in my neck which feels tight and stiff, get a bit of discomfort in the back left when turning my head, can't turn it as far to the left as I can the right. Feel the discomfort turning it either way.The discomfort manifests in trapezius, deltoid and inside of the elbow on the left too.Symptoms feel better once warmed up and engaged in activity than when cold or inactive.Feel a bit weaker than normal on my left-hand side, not just in climbing related activities, e.g. struggled to lift my bike over a stile with my left arm whereas it's straightforward with my right.
OK, feeling a bit like I'm falling apart, lots of issues on my left arm and hand which I think may be related! Both my shoulders are stiff and sore (have been for years!) but in my left arm I get a dull pain on the inside where the bicep joins the elbow. My left wrist has been sore for about a year and a half which at first I had put down to having a baby, saw a physio and had an ultrasound which showed nothing and the physio suggested I quit climbing, what did I expect at my age and didn't I have my hands full enough with a small child, I'd also talked to them about pain in my ring and middle finger but they totally ignored that. Taping when climbing helps, if I try to pull with just those two fingers it aggravates my wrist and hurts the fingers a bit but the wrist also hurts when I flex it back and it makes a lot of grinding noises. Now I also seem to have buggered the index finger on the same hand and it's stopping me climbing. The middle joint is swollen, looks a bit bruised and very painful when fully stretched or clenched. It has improved with a week of rest (I couldn't switch a light on without yelping last week!) but I'm concerned about it stiffening or becoming a long term niggle if it's not sorted properly now. I did it on a side pull finger pocket moving up and around it, I did it probably 8 times and started to feel something a bit off so stopped that but carried on climbing with no worries, an hour after I finished climbing it was agony. Sorry that there's lots there, I feel like I probably need to go and see someone but I'm not sure if it should be a physio (who has a bit more of an open mind!) my GP, minor injuries or a sports massage therapist! Any help you can provide would be appreciated.
If both arms are a problem I would suspect this is referred from your neck. Don't ice/stretch your forearms bit concentrate on your upper back and neck. If you sit at a desk for long periods this might be a contributory factor.
Quote from: HPclinic on November 02, 2016, 07:00:42 pmIf both arms are a problem I would suspect this is referred from your neck. Don't ice/stretch your forearms bit concentrate on your upper back and neck. If you sit at a desk for long periods this might be a contributory factor. The nerve issue has been advised it will recover with rest. However the forearm ache is still present. You mentioned concentrating on upper back/neck. What exercises/stretches would you recommend doing for this?
Quote from: HPclinic on October 29, 2016, 08:34:58 amHi This is referred from your shoulder or neck. I assume it is a shoulder control problem that is an issue with certain wide holds as it is fine normally. A muscle injury would be more consistent. If its was 'super painful' you might have had a neck/nerve irritation that slowly improved but only caused problems with certain positions. Stretch you neck and strengthen your shoulder but continue climbing. Strengthen the shoulder in positions that reproduce your symptoms i.e. wide moves above head hight but do both pulling and pushing type exercise. Thanks Steve HThanks for this Steve. I've been stretching my neck quite a lot over the past few days and it's made a massive difference. It's not 100% sorted but it's a hell of a lot better.There was one more thing I was wondering about injury wise. I had an a2 that hung around for a long time but it finally healed from what I can tell. A month or more later I injured something in my palm. It's not very painful but it gets worse when I climb on it.It's either side of the a1 and causes swelling when I stress my hands through climbing.Below is a picture of the areas that are swollen.
Hi Coops, The nerve will recover and on restarting climbing remember to slowly load the arm again on easier grades and increase this as symptoms allow.Regarding neck and upper back exercises; I would regularly reach your arms above your head making sure you lift your chest and upper back then lower and let upper back relax. In sitting you could cross your arms and rotate your trunk left and right. I would also rotate your neck to the opposite direction at the same time. Basically move and watch prolonged periods sitting in front of a computer. If this doesn't help it is probably worth visiting a local physio.Regards Matt
Hello HP chaps.I have shoulder and elbow problems. First sign ofproblem was on a weeks holiday in Fontainebleau back in April this year. Three days on, with no real warning signs I got acute pain in my left elbow. It hurt like hell, I'm not one to complain usually but it was extremely uncomfortable. That was the last time I climbed this year. Over the course of the year, things have worsened overall. Elbow pain had improved, but is still there. My shoulder has become very painful however. I do a manual job, very physical, as a tree surgeon. The pain is when my arm is extended out, usually above my head or with arm outstretched. Example being putting fresh bed sheets on, I reached out to tuck one corner in and lost my footing slightly and put weight down through my arms whilst they were both outstretched. The pain was intense! I did have a session with an NHS physio who thought I had a shoulder impingement. I ended up going to see a private physio as the pain was unbearable and the waiting time was lengthy on NHS. I have been to the private physio a few times, by don't feel like I'm getting far in all honesty.I miss climbing, and I worry I'm not going to be able to do it ever again! I'm stuck in a rut really, as I can't recover properly because of my job, but have to work as I'm self employed.Any thoughts?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hi, I pulled a hamstring about a week ago and would appreciate any advice for getting it back to full climbing use. It's not really noticeable in day to day activity and I can walk / run ok so I'm guessing it's a fairly minor injury. When climbing I get pain when the leg is either out to the side or when toe-ing in on any steep moves, basically any time I'm pulling with the foot rather than just standing up on it. The painful area is a few inches above the knee on the inner side of the back of the leg. (it's on the bit of muscle / tendon that stands out very prominently when the leg is tensed).Any suggestions for stretching / re-strengthening would be great, Thanks.[Hi Ali, if it is a mild hamstring strain then it should resolve over 2-3 week period. It makes sense that you feel discomfort with the manoeuvres you describe as you will be using your hamstrings to fix or bend your knee when pulling with your foot. Progress the amount of load on the hamstring over the next 4 weeks as symptoms allow i.e. Back off the amount of heel use and grades and Increase as able. Mild discomfort is acceptable. If symptoms persist let me know. Regards matt ]
Hi, I recently popped my left wrist, first time I've had a joint pop, very strange. No pain afterwards, no bruising, did it with an odd back hand move. Did it about 4 weeks ago and have climbed on it since without really much problem. I rested it a couple of days after it happened and then went to Font. Anyways... today doing some strength rack pulls -max weight/low reps- it popped again. I stopped. As there's really no pain and I still have full mobility without pain, should I rest it, be careful but carry on, see a physio, or? If I have to rest it, roughly how long for do you think? without any pain or discomfort its hard to know if it is better or not. [Hi,joints can sometimes make noise when a small gas bubble is released within it. It seems like the wrist is making the noise when you are at the extremes of load or when you are performing an awkward manoeuvre. This would make sense in that you are putting it at it's end of range and it is a release of pressure. The fact you have no pain or swelling is good. If you are generally have mobile joints then they may be moving excessively with large loads. Try a strapping the wrist to give it a little more support. Don't stop the climbing but perhaps avoid odd manoeuvres if possible over the next 2 weeks. If it persists or becomes more regular then go and see a physio.regards Matt ]
Perhaps a bit late to catch you guys today, but hoping to get some advice re my elbow.It's very hard to describe and might not be something that it is useful to discuss this way but...I basically get this feeling of tension in my elbow and wrist with tightness in the forearm (inside) also if I apply pressure there can also be slight soreness in the wrist and inside of elbow right on the joint. this is just on my right arm (I'm right handed).The symptoms don't seem to change with respect to exercise (i.e they aren't worse during or after) but I think I can be more aware of the issue during exercise.Occasionally I will have days where I don't notice it.Let me know if you have any thoughts/suggestions, but I appreciate it if there is not enough here to go off!Richard[Hi Richard,I suppose it is a good thing you aren't getting any pain and it isn't generally sore with exercise. The Ulnar nerve runs from the inside of your elbow into your lower arm and the inside of your wrist going on into the palm and fingers. Sometimes this can be irritated locally at the elbow and wrist through overstretching and direct pressure or at its origin in the neck. You don't always have symptoms in the neck. If it is just mild tension then it may be that you have overloaded the forearm if doing a lot of intense training. Recovery between intense sessions is important for progression.Perhaps look at your previous few weeks or month and see if you have changed anything.We would normally assess for patterns and reasons for this problem so maybe if it doesn't settle with reducing the grades over the/next two weeks then go and see a physio.regards Matt]
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