Quote"Assuming he's successful, doesn't that constitute 'pathing it'?" - Paul BNot really. To be honest, I think he had to put a fair bit more time and effort into this than I'd expected. I'd kinda expected him to struggle on some of the wierd laybacky type things - ie: pitches 10, 17 etc. But the two crux pitches, I thought he would do much more easily than he did. He did have hot weather all time he was there up till the third day of the push. But from then on, including both days spent on the crux pitches it cooled down loads. They are clearly properly hard.
"Assuming he's successful, doesn't that constitute 'pathing it'?" - Paul B
You have incredibly high expectations! Its not like Ondra onsights every 9a he tries (the vast majority of which are not slabby climbs rather steep and overhanging).Surely the question of 'pathing it' is relative?
just that the standards he sets are so ridiculously high.
For my part I think what Nalle did with Burden of Dreams is more impressive, less mad and cool and out there for him, but more impressive.Might get a bit vilified for this :D
Glad those fruit are labelled there Guy. Had me confused for a second..
QuoteSeems to me he's a once in a generation (or even once in many generations) climber who is best in the world at pretty much anything he turns his hand to and who seems to amaze other elite climbers just as much as he does armchair watchers. Let's not be forgetting Megos and Nalle. The reason Ondra is ludicrous and amazing in my mind is that he's such a mad nerd. I think a similar thing would have happened if Megos rocked up, he just isn't likely to because he want's to do what he's doing atm.Don't get me wrong, Ondra is a wonderful bastard, I just dislike talk of once in a generation and greatest. Maybe his want for variety alongside being up there (understatement I realise) strength wise makes him once in a generation. Who knows.For my part I think what Nalle did with Burden of Dreams is more impressive, less mad and cool and out there for him, but more impressive.Might get a bit vilified for this :D
Seems to me he's a once in a generation (or even once in many generations) climber who is best in the world at pretty much anything he turns his hand to and who seems to amaze other elite climbers just as much as he does armchair watchers.
Turned up in the Valley for the first time on 15th October. Topped out on the Dawn Wall 22nd November.
He's more sober than Mr. Zak. They are talking about going and do midnight lighting now. I'm sitting at the next table over.
Quote from: jwi on November 22, 2016, 04:30:12 am He's more sober than Mr. Zak. They are talking about going and do midnight lighting now. I'm sitting at the next table over.UKB Post of the Year 2016.
"You have incredibly high expectations!" - Slackline
Quote from: Will Hunt on November 22, 2016, 11:12:40 amQuote from: jwi on November 22, 2016, 04:30:12 am He's more sober than Mr. Zak. They are talking about going and do midnight lighting now. I'm sitting at the next table over.UKB Post of the Year 2016.Are Jacob and Bron nearby? Say hello if so
Quote"You have incredibly high expectations!" - SlacklineMaybe I didn't phrase that post quite right. Agree with most of what you said - except perhaps the bit about style. Think the two crux pitches - technical, vertical crimping - are absolutely his style, and that he is by a country mile the best at that type of climbing. But was really just agreeing with Duncan - ie: I don't think he "pathed it". That would have been rocking up and doing it in a week. Given what he'd done elsewhere, particularly Madagascar, I didn't think that was entirely out of the question. I think, as Duncan suggests, it's good for all concerned, that it put up a bit more of a fight than that.
What's the conversion rate between an Ondra and the old imperial measure, the Fawcett?
Quote from: mark on November 22, 2016, 01:00:53 pmWhat's the conversion rate between an Ondra and the old imperial measure, the Fawcett?There are two theories. Newtonian theory would have it as an absolute measure so an Ondrawad is worth 8.0 grades more than a Fawcett. The theory of relativity attributes a time value so the hardest grade in the World at the time would make an Ondrawad worth 1.5 grades more. Quantum physics makes it anyone's guess
Quote from: shark on November 22, 2016, 01:22:44 pmQuote from: mark on November 22, 2016, 01:00:53 pmWhat's the conversion rate between an Ondra and the old imperial measure, the Fawcett?There are two theories. Newtonian theory would have it as an absolute measure so an Ondrawad is worth 8.0 grades more than a Fawcett. The theory of relativity attributes a time value so the hardest grade in the World at the time would make an Ondrawad worth 1.5 grades more. Quantum physics makes it anyone's guessRe: Relativistic effects. From our frame of reference (in the stationary frame of now) the true difficulty, within a moving frame (the past), will appear diminished, and vice versa.