[nai]

Sorted that for them:

[Doylo]

Sounds like he was fucked trying to Jug up El Cap with a gri gri and a ascender 

[standard]

Think hes had an education now...
https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=726277337525998&id=126516774168727

[dave]

Sounds like he was fucked trying to Jug up El Cap with a gri gri and a ascender 

Anyone any idea if he's got a similar logistical support crew/setup as the first ascensionists had? Or is he just puntering up it, bigwall beginners mind style?

[Duncan campbell]

By the sounds of things he's just puntering around trying to fix lines up to the crux pitches. The impression I'm getting is that he has onsighted most of the easier pitches but seems to have frigged his way up those around the 5.14 mark?

Could be well wrong there but it also sounds like he is trying to do everything as free as possible i.e no aid climbing up pitches to get a rope on them. Though if you can climb 9b+ but have never aided it would probs be easier and probs less terrifying than doing some A4 shit?

He got to the top of pitch 7 on his first day on the route which is further than Tommy and Kevin got on their redpoint ascent! I wouldn't be shocked if Ondra sends Dawn Wall on this trip... though I guess it depends how long he is in thecircus Valley for. Plus he could get totally shutdown on the crux pitches due to heat at this time of year? Though maybe he could go and onsight the Salathe whilst he waits for it to cool down?

[Rocksteady]

I think it's pretty cool of Ondra to have a crack at this. I mean, he has his rep as 'best climber in the world' to maintain, and he's taken himself out of his comfort zone to try something as hard as it gets in a style he's not used to. Lot of potential to fail very publicly - he's obviously not worried and is just psyched to try. Of course, there may be some sponsor pressure but I doubt that would influence him given his public stance on the Olympic format. Shows a pretty impressive attitude that is probably part of why he's got to where he is in the first place.

[T_B]

The guy grew up climbing Czech sandstone. I can't see him being that fazed about El Cap.

[mikester]

 I know it's a not a FA, but I quite like that there isn't the sponsor-fueled media shit-storm around this.

[standard]

well, he's not american for a start.

[Clart]

I mean, he has his rep as 'best climber in the world' to maintain, and he's taken himself out of his comfort zone to try something as hard as it gets in a style he's not used to. Lot of potential to fail very publicly - he's obviously not worried and is just psyched to try.

I always thought that when he gets involved in the comps. He has more to lose than gain but gives it his all anyway.



Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[jfdm]

Just to refresh the memory banks, he came over to UK and had a quick go on Peak rock a few years ago. Numerous E7's and made them look a doddle.

If anybody can do this he can.
If he doesn't make it there is always next time.
Why let egos get in the way of having a good time?

[slackline]

In interviews I've watched Adam Ondra seems to have no, or very little, ego when it comes to climbing, he just fucking loves climbing, thats it. 

Look at how he went out and repeated loads of established routes so he could develop his appreciation for what climbs at each grades are and how new routes he would do would fit into that scale, often failing quite openly on some routes before finally getting up them.  Thats not an approach someone who wanted to stroke their ego would take.

[Wood FT]

In interviews I've watched Adam Ondra seems to have no, or very little, ego when it comes to climbing, he just fucking loves climbing, thats it. 

Look at how he went out and repeated loads of established routes so he could develop his appreciation for what climbs at each grades are and how new routes he would do would fit into that scale, often failing quite openly on some routes before finally getting up them.  Thats not an approach someone who wanted to stroke their ego would take.

+1, closest I've got to a hero.

[jfdm]

In interviews I've watched Adam Ondra seems to have no, or very little, ego when it comes to climbing, he just fucking loves climbing, thats it. 

Exactly he loves it and the greatest climber by far of this era, and a gent.
The best ambassador climbing has.
The ego bit of my post regards the wider climbing community, ethics of the ascent, hope he fails etc etc. etc.

[Johnny Brown]

+1, closest I've got to a hero.

Yeah, whatever. I've seen the way you look at Nige.

[Doylo]

+1, closest I've got to a hero.

Yeah, whatever. I've seen the way you look at Nige.

He's just good looking.

[Duncan campbell]

+1, closest I've got to a hero.

Yeah, whatever. I've seen the way you look at Nige.

Is that a hint of jealousy I detect, JB? 

[Johnny Brown]

We're all human.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

By the sounds of things he's just puntering around

Sounds refreshingly in vogue. I went puntering at the Tor earlier.

Puntering is the new wadding 

[petejh]

In interviews I've watched Adam Ondra seems to have no, or very little, ego when it comes to climbing, he just fucking loves climbing, thats it. 

Exactly he loves it and the greatest climber by far of this era, and a gent.
The best ambassador climbing has.
The ego bit of my post regards the wider climbing community, ethics of the ascent, hope he fails etc etc. etc.

Easy to be humble and lacking in ego when you're cruising along being the best..

Wait until he hits 35, has a kid, picks up a few niggles, the business he started starts to demand more of his time than he'd like and his missus is on to him to get on with painting the living room like he promised. It'll be nothing but 'leading climber' Adam Ondra' (media euphemism for 'has been' or 'nowhere near the best') and 'Singing Rock ambassador' on the fall-out bunker media feed.

[jfdm]

In interviews I've watched Adam Ondra seems to have no, or very little, ego when it comes to climbing, he just fucking loves climbing, thats it. 

Exactly he loves it and the greatest climber by far of this era, and a gent.
The best ambassador climbing has.
The ego bit of my post regards the wider climbing community, ethics of the ascent, hope he fails etc etc. etc.

Easy to be humble and lacking in ego when you're cruising along being the best..

Wait until he hits 35, has a kid, picks up a few niggles, the business he started starts to demand more of his time than he'd like and his missus is on to him to get on with painting the living room like he promised. It'll be nothing but 'leading climber' Adam Ondra' (media euphemism for 'has been' or 'nowhere near the best') and 'Singing Rock ambassador' on the fall-out bunker media feed.

Maybe, but he's only in his early 20's I am sure that in the next 10 years he will tick his short/medium/long term climbing goals, having a lot of fun along the way. And then retire gracefully....

[Duncan campbell]

Surely Ondra is a lifer?

[slackline]

Easy to be humble and lacking in ego when you're cruising along being the best..

Wait until he hits 35, has a kid, picks up a few niggles, the business he started starts to demand more of his time than he'd like and his missus is on to him to get on with painting the living room like he promised. It'll be nothing but 'leading climber' Adam Ondra' (media euphemism for 'has been' or 'nowhere near the best') and 'Singing Rock ambassador' on the fall-out bunker media feed.

And?

People and their situations and therefore priorities change as they progress through life.  Thats not a revelation, its life.

Performance standards and what constitutes 'the best' change, and generally improve, not just in climbing but across all activities as there is better shared knowledge and its application.  Thats not a revelation either.

My guess is that he'll be happy going out climbing and challenging himself even if he's not viewed by others as 'the best' or at the cutting edge, just like most other people who climb.  Or he might sack it all off one day and do something else, wouldn't taint the legacy he'd leave behind one little bit.

I'm struggling to understand what you are trying to convey.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Easy to be humble and lacking in ego when you're cruising along being the best..

Wait until he hits 35, has a kid, picks up a few niggles, the business he started starts to demand more of his time than he'd like and his missus is on to him to get on with painting the living room like he promised. It'll be nothing but 'leading climber' Adam Ondra' (media euphemism for 'has been' or 'nowhere near the best') and 'Singing Rock ambassador' on the fall-out bunker media feed.

And?

People and their situations and therefore priorities change as they progress through life.  Thats not a revelation, its life.

Performance standards and what constitutes 'the best' change, and generally improve, not just in climbing but across all activities as there is better shared knowledge and its application.  Thats not a revelation either.

My guess is that he'll be happy going out climbing and challenging himself even if he's not viewed by others as 'the best' or at the cutting edge, just like most other people who climb.  Or he might sack it all off one day and do something else, wouldn't taint the legacy he'd leave behind one little bit.

I'm struggling to understand what you are trying to convey.

The difference between "ego" and "ego defence".

The former is very often used as a shorthand for the latter, as when life is going well for us, our functional or "positive" manifestation of ego - e.g. just loving climbing - tends to go relatively unnoticed. When life starts to encroach, and things seem to not be going our own way - we thought we were the über wad, but we've been dropping the 53rd move for three weeks goddammit; being in a foul mood when we've got to earn climbing vouchers, by entertaining the in-laws when the conditions are otherwise mint; pulled a pulley, that sort of thing - the ego can take that as a direct and painful realisation of the discrepancy between the self concept and reality.

As a defence, our ego responds e.g. with anger or other less sociable behaviour - yelling and screaming, kicking the rock, chipping holds (!), in an attempt to externalise the pain. We refer to this "negative" behaviour as "ego", because it's kind of unpleasant, and what we notice.

Ondra appears relatively "well adjusted" to life's frustrations, and seems to display less defensive behaviour.

I know this is all a bit clumsy. I was going to post something like it earlier, but petejh did instead.

Anyway, Ondra has been known to throw the odd tantrum. Bring on pitch 15, though I reckon he'll path it.

I'm guessing that what you may mean, Slackers, is that when you enjoy climbing so much, the frustrations are far easier to take; any climbing is fantastic - and that's a great place to be!

[Nibile]

I dare say that petejh was being sarcastic.