UKBouldering.com

[Peak & Yorkshire][Various crags][42 probs 5 -7C] (Read 13878 times)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9937
  • Karma: +561/-9
Good work, sounds heinous. I get lip then throw a high but poor kneebar in and then go again with lh to wide pinch. I might not work for your height anyway. Sounds like the same topout. Will try and post some pics tomorrow.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9937
  • Karma: +561/-9
Sorry about the unrotated pic. Annoyingly the pic is correctly rotated on PC but then reverts when uploaded. It'll have to do for now. From this position you move LH back and left and then start manteling.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9937
  • Karma: +561/-9
Here's a vid of Ned on Proper Gander. Not best quality but good for beta

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9937
  • Karma: +561/-9
Here's one of The Real Thin, 'Tidy' Jon Coe climbing.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
Here's a vid of Ned on Proper Gander. Not best quality but good for beta

This looks brilliant, well done Jon. Well spotted, both the line and the sequence.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8017
  • Karma: +634/-116
    • Unknown Stones
Going back in the thread a bit, can anyone enlighten me as to the finish for Get A Grip at Eavestone? The moves through the roof are great but I just couldn't suss how to get up onto the lip from the pocket. I'd be interested in giving Sky Carbon or whatever it's called a go since the top of Sky Diamond looks like a sharp bunchfest to me.
Andy also describes an alternate finish, how does that one work?
« Last Edit: December 30, 2016, 09:43:16 am by Will Hunt »

Alex-the-Alex

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 222
  • Karma: +18/-0


Pretty much same as this Will, using the hold round the arete a bit. Its not too bad once figured out. I just didnt have the beans to link it all...

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9937
  • Karma: +561/-9
Cheers Ru.

Have also added an extension start to The Real Thin starting on right as per Crystal Voyager, bumps it up to 7a+. On same day also did a  RH finish on The Flakes at 6b+.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8017
  • Karma: +634/-116
    • Unknown Stones


Pretty much same as this Will, using the hold round the arete a bit. Its not too bad once figured out. I just didnt have the beans to link it all...

Fucks sake that's grim.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9937
  • Karma: +561/-9
Another one to add to the RH Upper Tier circuit. Done last week, it saw a few quick repeats, all agreed it a fine addition. Bit like a giant Staffs Flyer. Pretty obvious line, wouldn't be surprised if it attracted a retroclaim (hence the name).

Who’s Boss 6C – About 10m directly behind the Ride My Pimp block. The high prow, with a boss mantel to finish. Grade might feel generous without the post-clean scrittle-damp. FA Rocketman Rob Smith

Alex-the-Alex

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 222
  • Karma: +18/-0
Hi Jon, does Veni Vidi Vici climb more on the left or the right of the arete? I was up today and managed the left hand side which was great but couldnt quite do the right... cheers.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9937
  • Karma: +561/-9
Fairly front on from what I recall. Deffo involved a heel-toe.

Alex-the-Alex

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 222
  • Karma: +18/-0
Ah right thanks. Yeah used a heel toe both ways but couldnt commit to the right hand side (left foot in). Visions of snapped ankles.... Cheers.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal