[shark]

Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.

Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.

I wouldn't write it off especially if you are psyched for it and doesnt give your elbows grief. A lot of good climbers have incorporated volume pullup routines as significant part of their training notably Dmitry Sharafutdinov

[nai]

Agreed, and nothing wrong with using for a few weeks as a high-volume base phase before going on to lower reps with added weight. 
You could try doing half the sets with a narrow (shoulder width) grip and then got to 1.5x or 2x sh width which will feel harder, making sure you have good form at all times; long neck, trying to put your shoulders in back pockets.
Then after 3/4 weeks or 10/12 sessions go to sets of 3-5 reps with added weight.

[Murph]

Cheers chaps. I should always caveat my advice to say -"I am no expert!"

[TobyD]

Great news. Probably better to stick to climbing at first though, given the fragility of your skull?

I asked my consultant about cycling specifically, given that I will be wearing a helmet anyway, be said that the increased risk would be minimal. I'm far more vulnerable to a puncture type injury eg from something falling on my head.

Not real cycling but I have a turbo trainer that I never use, you're welcome to it if you could make use of it.

Cheers Ian, I'll take you up on that if I may,what sort/ model is it?

[nai]

Trax?
I was given it. Set it up once but have never used it beyond that and have now sold my road bike, it's just spent a couple of years being in the way. Pretty sure it's in working order.

 

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[measles23]

72.4kg

STG: Climb, deadlift, lose a little weight
MTG: Advanced Training at Beginner's, 225 kg deadlift, 70kg
LTG: 8B, 240 kg DL, travel to the moon...

M: manflu, work
T: manflu,  Session on advanced training at Beginner's with murph - short session as tired + poor skin but worked a decent sequence and did all moves - murph needs to get over building the broadest based grade pyramid on lime and do more hard probs!
W: manflu, work
T: manflu, BM2k open crimp small crimp max hangs up to +35kg x 4s
Deadlifts - not sparking; tired, fuck knows how I lifted heavy last week - failed to get 225 off 1" blocks, 230 off 4" blocks 3 times..
Wide stance squats - 4 sets of 100s
F: manflu, work+++
S: manflu, BM2k open crimp small crimp max hangs up to +35 x 7s
S: manflu, Awesome walls - 1hr probs up to V7, finally did the blue prob in the cave after ditching Colin's shite beta and going basic. 30 min moonboard - weak.
Campus board medley; ladders, drop downs, staggered pull-ups..
Ring dips 3x3
Work +++

Pretty run down

[fried]

Pretty run down

 

[TobyD]

Trax?
I was given it. Set it up once but have never used it beyond that and have now sold my road bike, it's just spent a couple of years being in the way.

Looks good! I'll definitely relieve you of that if it's in your way! I'll be in touch with you when I am next up there - hopefully soon!

[Murph]

murph needs to get over building the broadest based grade pyramid on lime and do more hard probs!

I think you have convinced me. After the current 7 that I'm working on, my 25th, the next thing will be an 8. Plenty of time to backfill later in life. 

[tk421a]

Hey,
It's been a while since I've posted. But question for you all.
Came back from a great magic wood trip 3 weeks ago, almost ticked my first 7C. Had 2 indoor sessions the week after before 2 weeks completely off on holiday in Iceland.
Before I could do a 1 armer on my right arm comfortably and just about on my left, 13579 was easy, 146 also. Now... I can barely do a right arm one armer and can barely start a left arm one...13579 is a struggle and I can barely do 145.
Is 2 weeks pretty common for a big detraining effect on power?
Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back?
I've never been this strong and taken such a long rest before.
Cheers

[shark]

Hey,
It's been a while since I've posted. But question for you all.
Came back from a great magic wood trip 3 weeks ago, almost ticked my first 7C. Had 2 indoor sessions the week after before 2 weeks completely off on holiday in Iceland.
Before I could do a 1 armer on my right arm comfortably and just about on my left, 13579 was easy, 146 also. Now... I can barely do a right arm one armer and can barely start a left arm one...13579 is a struggle and I can barely do 145.
Is 2 weeks pretty common for a big detraining effect on power?
Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back?
I've never been this strong and taken such a long rest before.
Cheers

In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength

[tk421a]

Thanks, good to know doesn't take too long. Dead hang strength feels OK, just power and lockoff.

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[filz]

M: lunch: assisted mono, pull ups. eve: rings circuit x5: planks, push ups, dips, top position. Then reverse pull ups, skin the cat, fb on portable board
T: worked till late. Nothing
W: yoga
T: lunch: fb evening: ring circuit. Tired
F: Climbing on nib's board. Not bad despite having headache all day
S: Was supposed to take some rest instead.. Dumbbell complex 5x3: cleans, push press, squat. Single arm plank rows. Then some climbing on the board with friends. Good session
S: Bouldering with friends. Very humid. Feeling surprisingly well.

Good training week. At the end of the week I had sore fingers. For this week I'm planning to give some rest to fingers and forearms and do mostly weights and rings.

Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back?

For me this summer was a period of lack of motivation and not much training. In september I started training more consistently feeling terribly weak. After about a month I'm having good sensations again. And strength (or lack thereof  ) seems to back to where it was in spring. Looking forward to test my shape on rock.

[shark]

Thanks, good to know doesn't take too long.

Felt like ages at the time

[nai]

According to author Vladimir Issurin, the residual training effect of different qualities is as follows:
Aerobic Endurance: 30 days
Maximum Strength: 30 days
Anaerobic Endurance: 15 days
Power Endurance: 12 days
Maximum Power or Speed: 5 days

from

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization--non-linear-periodization/108438729

So yeah, 2 weeks off power and you'll have seen a decline but with recharged body and psyche it won't take long to come back.  Personally I wouldn't rush to get it back, take a few weeks getting your body used to training again rather than attempt to smash all your PBs asap.

[TobyD]

In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength

So how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)

[Nibile]

So yeah, 2 weeks off power

You must be kidding. Who really wants to take two weeks off power training? You'd better just quit climbing once and for all, after two weeks off power training.
If I stay two days off power I start feeling gentle, and in peace with the world, ready to embrace the beauty of climbing outdoors and the pleasure of movement.
Then luckily I get my dose of power training and my life goes back to a rage of angry, testosterone-induced frustration for the perennial search of infinite strength.
It's so beautiful in my mind.
I feel a bit lonely though at times.

[shark]

In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength

So how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)

Could be as long as four weeks.

You'll bounce back like Jerry after his two years off from injury and an operation. Book your Spring ticket to the Bout du Monde now for extra motivation 

[shark]

I feel a bit lonely though at times.

Manly hug 

[Nibile]

 

[rginns]

Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.

Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.

I wouldn't write it off especially if you are psyched for it and doesnt give your elbows grief. A lot of good climbers have incorporated volume pullup routines as significant part of their training notably Dmitry Sharafutdinov

To Shark, Nai, Dolly, Murph,
Thanks all for the advice - elbows are pretty good generally, and I'm looking to get a good level of base fitness.
I do think form is important though, so need to keep an eye on this. It's only a small part of a bigger picture of general climbing that is more important anyway.
That Dmitry sounds nuts! Although it seems other climbers do a similar thing - Michaela Tracy in jamCrack Podcast 005 discusses it too. Interesting!

[TobyD]

In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength

So how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)

Could be as long as four weeks.

You'll bounce back like Jerry after his two years off from injury and an operation. Book your Spring ticket to the Bout du Monde now for extra motivation

I'd love to think so, cheers for the positive response though, I need more of that.

[Paul B]

I ended up with 8 months off with my leg-break and although it felt like an eternity at the time, it wasn't, and I don't recall climbing performance being poor on-return as being soul crushing; I was simply happy to be climbing again. Hang in there!

[shark]

I'd love to think so, cheers for the positive response though, I need more of that.

Drawing from my experience with the burnt hand last Spring then I imagine you will probably be feeling quite vulnerable and fragile at the moment which is natural following a traumatic experience. Also people saying you will come back as strong or stronger will ring hollow. When I started again it took me three sessions to redpoint Sardine which before I could do from cold as a warm up. By the end of the Summer I was at a different level on the Oak. It may work differently for you but I would bet Dave's money that it doesn't.     

[Nibile]

With respect to Dmitri and other world-class crushers doing tons of pull-ups, I think it's crucial to take into account that volume is always depending on intensity and vice versa.
Those who do lots of volume of a certain excercise, are performing it a fraction of their max intensity. A pull-up has different intensities depending on who performs it.
So, I think that Dmitri can do thousands because one single pull-up represents a very very low intensity effort for him. Probably he can do more pull-ups than most people can walk. 
For a normal person a single pull-up is almost extreme, while for climbers is quite common, but it still represents a good fraction of their max potential.
So, if one of us mortals would like to get lots of pull-ups volume in, I think we should do assisted pull-ups or use a lat machine.