[shurt]

Forgive me father as it is 11 weeks since last posting and I've actually not climbed or trained for that time. However, over  the last two days I did some pulls ups and press ups and am feeling like I have some energy so hopefully I might climb again soon.

I've spent the last 11 weeks on the most mental energy low and allergy thing (sneezing, runny nose and eczema on my face). Some days I couldn't get out of bed and generally had huge bouts of lethargy and tiredness. I had blood tests, various doctors appointments, been signed off work and have chest and abdominal x rays next week.

The long and short of it is that I am iron, vit b12 deficient and allergic to loads of things - cows whey being a major one - and have been on a cocktail of supplements and slightly different diet. I'm still not 100% sure what is causing the stuff on my face. The last few days I am starting to feel better. Oh and my partner had our 2nd child a week ago too.

Hopefully I'll get back on the fingerboard this coming week and out bouldering before the end of the year. Watch this space...

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7anything by arrival of TTT Jnr. mk II


M: Nowt.
T: Testing out new lunchtime routine now I'm working futher from gym. Managed to change at work, run to gym, do HIIT class, run back, shower all within an hour. Might be able to make that work a couple of times a week.
W: Depot eve. Good session, but always is when the crimpy wood circuit gets a reset - though had to stop more due to skin than body.
T: Nowt. Visiting relatives from USA so had a midweek family roast dinner!
F: Nowt.
S: Wedding where venue was all but next door to Earl, and reception all but next door to Crookrise. A touch frustrating but was a nice day.
S: Planned to experiment with an outdoor session with Una in tow but combination of factors (mainly being in midst of potty training) meant I shelved it in favour of a trip to The Lab in Leeds instead. In retrospect a good shout as it threw it down with rain on the way there. She really enjoyed it, climbed more than she has before and then (sorry to anyone who was party to this but I'm taking as a good sign!) threw a massive strop when I said we needed to leave.

[36chambers]

Forgive me father as it is 11 weeks since last posting and I've actually not climbed or trained for that time...

Hopefully you're over the worse and congratulations on your second child

[36chambers]

M:
T: Cliff avec lamps. Had a date to try Slopey Traverse 7C but arrived early so tried out some new, revolutionary, beta on Keelhaul 8A and can now link from the crack to the lip. Before this point I wasn't officially "working" it but rather just having a look to see if it was actually possible. It may be a goer after all. Fell off the last hard move on ST a number of times, slopers felt worse than last time.
W:
T: Indoors. Brief play on the 50. Long PE session on roofs, felt like a sack of potatoes.
F:
S: Club trip to Peak. Managed Old King Cascade 7B and Suavito 7B. Both pretty good problems. It seems the Peak does have the odd decent problem lying around, though it's a shame they're so spread out
S: Stanage for the 3rd Annual Hangover Session on Brad Pit. Didn't feel great but I can now consistently stick the LH, could hold it fine but couldn't move on it. Rain stopped play. At this rate I think Stanage 2018 will be the one!   

[Coops_13]

S: Stanage for the 3rd Annual Hangover Session on Brad Pit. Didn't feel great but I can now consistently stick the LH, could hold it fine but couldn't move on it. Rain stopped play. At this rate I think Stanage 2018 will be the one!

Should have had more meanie, that'd have got you up it!

[webbo]

Mon. Board did a mirror session first this year 41 problems. Bike 74.87 miles 4 hrs 36 mins went further than planned battered.
Tue. Work
Wed. Work.
Thu. Bike 27.30 miles 1 hr 36 mins intervals.
Fri. Ash head crags wet forecast was to gradually improve. So given that and the wind plus every where else was wet, so chanced it. But it rained, found a wall to play on and another bit in a cave. So did some climbing.
Sat. 30 problems to warm up then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off times 5 5 sets with 36.5lbs added.
Sun. Set of to to do about 3 hours got pissed on in first half miles. So did some. Intervals and came home. 1 hr 2 mins 16.63 miles.

[Duma]

Goals:
Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

Body Audit: Shoulder ok, knee ok but still there in the background, finger just about there.

M: Out for dinner, too much booze, not enough sleep, predictably.
T: Finally caught up a bit of sleep (~9hrs)
W: TCA eve, finally had a decent session - who'd have thought sleeping more than 5 hrs would help?? Finished off the black 7B+ on the mothership fairly easily, bit of progress on the green "7B", but still running out of beans for the finish. then 5hrs sleep - FUCKS SAKE!
T: Rockstar (swindon wall) at lunch, just a bimble really, but a few things in the mid 6's. Slightly better sleep, still prob less than 7hrs though.
F: Nothing, feeling much better, but prob due to good life stuff rather than any sleep improvement. Eve, drive up to Staffs, sleep I guess 6-7hrs
S: Churnet, Farley Wood. Never been before, had a great time - Encore en Fois (7A), Machinehead (7A) (flash), Propellerhead (7A) (flash), Google Earth (7A+), did all moves quick on The Mentalist pretty quick, but big pocket was very painful on my index finger so sacked it. Then over to Valley of Kings, Managed Obelisk (7A) and The Moon is Born (7A) before the midges drove us to the pub. prob ~7hrs sleep.
S: Later than planned start, Gentleman Rock: Jill the Traverse (6C), The Nose (6C), Limp Lizard (crimp way)(7B), High Speed Imp Act (7A), Electrofly (6C+), Martins Mono (7A+), Humpty Dumpty (7A+). Fingers decided there'd been quite enough pocket pulling by then, only token goes on 50p Problem and Crash Damage. Great weekend. ~5hrs sleep.

Good week, but really struggling to get enough sleep since I've gone onto days, no problem dropping off but consistently waking up before 4 and not getting much after that. Anyone tried that 5htp stuff? Couple of folk have reccommended it to me.

68kg 

[Nibile]

Mon - weights warm up, boxing bag. Brilliant. Aching from Sunday session. Started working on anti-rotation for core tension. Hard.
Tue - rest.
Wed - system, dynamic session. Fucking brilliant. Rings, I's and L-sits, 15" on 15" off x5, brutal. Dumbbell complex, traps.
Thu - boxing bag, climbing class.
Fri - low intensity PE, 30"/30" x5, 1'/1' x5. Improved. Dumbbell complex, trap work.
Sat - dumbbell complex, 30' of boxing bag, extreme.
Sun - bouldering! First time on rock in almost 6 months, very humid, at least I was with good friends. Good day.
Super psyched for boxing, must go back to the weights soon.

[SA Chris]

Good week, but really struggling to get enough sleep since I've gone onto days, no problem dropping off but consistently waking up before 4 and not getting much after that. Anyone tried that 5htp stuff? Couple of folk have reccommended it to me.

At least you have an excuse. 6 hours is a good night for me. Melatonin is meant to be good for resetting body clocks. I bought some of that 5 htp stuff, but read about some side effects and took it back. I find getting really really drunk usually resets my body clock quite quickly.

[SA Chris]

Oh and my partner had our 2nd child a week ago too.

I'm sure you were at least partially involved. Congratulations, this is not the right place to slip news like this in. Friends just had twins as their first (and probably last!) kids. I think they are in sooo far over their heads.

Roll with it mate, always time for another comeback.

[Murph]

Wow Duma that sounds like a heck of a weekend. Good work!

[nai]

1 hr 36 mins intervals.

Wow, long burns 

[rginns]

Really really really really long time since I've posted on here, but I've got goals I want to get done this winter so need to get back training and Power Club has helped with the motivation in the past..

STG - Regain 7A or at least do a few on the list.
MTG - 7B (3 months)
LTG - 7C

Weight - 73Kg, target 70Kg, 4wks

S - Pull Ups - 76 in 13 minutes, one min on, one min off, AB Ripper X (reps of 15 or 20)
M - Lunchtime Brownstones session, 30mins, mainly Ash Pit Traverse, building up a pump
T -  Lunchtime Brownstones session, 30mins, Ash Pit Traverse, evening: 82 Pull ups in 13 mins, one on, one off,
W - Lunchtime Brownstones session, 30mins, Unjust area. Evening: Board session, 25 x Max reach pulls and controlled lower, both arms, 45 mins on big reach, positive hold problems, 50 leg raises
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Pull ups, 89 in 13 mins, 1 on, 1 off

Disappointing end to the week, but it's nice to be doing something after a long time not being focussed - understandable given the third addition to the family in February.
It'll be interesting to see if I can maintain the late night training though, because although it gives the best value it's more difficult to get motivated. Need to do a bit more cardio to drop the weight.

[Dolly]

HIT will help you drop wright more than cardio.
Squats, lunges, press ups, pullups, burpees, Supermen, Jumping Jacks can all be done without weights. In 15 minutes of those done in 2 or 3 sets you can be panting like a dog, getting a stronger corea dn never leave the house

[SA Chris]

+1. Or run at a faster pace for less time, then you can get it over with quicker!

[Murph]

Hi Rginns,

Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form.

80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.

Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.

[tomtom]

Hi Rich drop me a FB message if you're out in Lancs & want some company... Free most thursdays and fridays...

[rginns]

HIT will help you drop wright more than cardio.
Squats, lunges, press ups, pullups, burpees, Supermen, Jumping Jacks can all be done without weights. In 15 minutes of those done in 2 or 3 sets you can be panting like a dog, getting a stronger corea dn never leave the house

Good shout, I hate running so anything to avoid that is welcome need to do some research on HIIT

Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.

Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.

Hi Rich drop me a FB message if you're out in Lancs & want some company... Free most thursdays and fridays...

Yes Tom! I'll hit you up if I manage to get out, nice one.

[TobyD]

M gym
T gym
W gym
T
F gym AM,
S gym AM; 5mile walk PM
S travel to Sheffield for 24 hour visit.

Decent week. Getting very slightly stronger on some of the weights, but getting irritating sore back, probably from slightly poor form on some (bench or military press I am guessing). More core control needed before upping the weight I reckon. Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...

[Wood FT]

Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...

I'm up for easy trad when you're back Toby

[Duma]

Decent week.
Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...

Good to hear Toby 

[TobyD]

Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...

I'm up for easy trad when you're back Toby

That sounds great Guy, hopefully it'll still be warm enough for trad! I managed a few 6bs on top rope yesterday, and easy trad probably inspires me most at the moment, given that my forearms felt like I'd had 4 redpoints on an 8b after those!

[SA Chris]

Great news. Probably better to stick to climbing at first though, given the fragility of your skull?

[nai]

Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...

Not real cycling but I have a turbo trainer that I never use, you're welcome to it if you could make use of it.

[cheque]

S travel to Sheffield for 24 hour visit.

Did I see you walking across the top of Burbage late Sunday afternoon Toby? I assumed it couldn't be you as you were in Devon...

Also up for easy trad. Really enjoying grit trad this autumn.