[nai]

that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...

Surely rubicon is fine all year round?

Pretty much, yes.  And there's no sign of any crapping out either.  Connies only likely to improve for the foreseeable.

Nobody panic.

[TobyD]

Monday Gym AM
Tuesday Gym AM
Wednesday Gym AM
Thursday 7-8 mile walk PM
Friday Gym AM 6 mile walk PM
Saturday Gym AM
Sunday Dartmoor walk in the morning

Feeling a little better on the weights this week, pull ups still feel a long way off. Going to hospital for a check up tomorrow; very nervous. Hopefully all will be OK.

[Dolly]

About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess -  well cold enough to see your breath when I got there.

7 degrees when I passed the Fox House this eve

Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great

Greater than Lagers?7

No of course not

[measles23]

73kg

M - nowt
T - Blackwell Dale: repeated Ovine in a couple of goes, which was a relief after having an unexpected 'mare on it in the spring; worked the left and right starts but didn't quiet feel like going for it on either - crossed the road and met Murph at Beginner's - Hi Murph - advanced training looks good for potential STG - rest of the Dale was gopping
W - Streaming man-flu, work, felt pants
T - Deadlift day but felt way too shit to go to the gym WTF! Desperate decision as was light enough for 3xBW, and just needed to lift the same as last week. Beginning to feel this target could really drag out..
F - Still feeling shit. Some kind of premonition made me weigh-in, as Fridays are usually a 7pm finish merging straight into bedtime duties. But the luck fairy was with me today; one of my patients literally fled the building after I explained the tiny chance of me rendering them blind or making their brain leak - some people!
Anyhoo that created the unexpected window so I persuaded myself to go to the gym at least just to get some training in; very crowded, big Eddie was in the house, somehow scraped together the energy for one good go and the consequent willy-waving covered in the DL thread. 225 off 1" blocks wouldn't budge tho! Went home and died
S - Fingerboard BM2k open crimp small crimps - max hangs up to 3 sets of 30kg for 8 sec
S - Stoke awesome walls   - 2 hrs problems; chuffed to get the black V8 in the cave; worked the green V8 but too long for me
3 sets per side campus board drop-downs (4 to 1)x3
ring dips 3x3
Way overdid it today and feel poo now
Looking forward to feeling well enough to to properly celebrate the 3xBW!

[36chambers]

M:
T: 50 board. Small holds, feeling strong, good session.
W:
T: 50 board. Small holds, feeling strong, good session. Felt slightly tweaky afterwards so maybe a tad too intense.
F:
S: Cliff. With Coops_13. Good day. Repeated lots of stuff. Slowly getting a sequence for Keelhaul 8A together, still don't quite have it completely sussed.
S: Cliff. Had a play on Slopey Traverse 7C and fell off the last "hard" move. Should hopefully go next time.

Current "training plan" is to spend all my indoor days on the 50 and then do a few PE sessions before the big winter crush. 

[shark]

No alcohol all week 

  indeed!

Resolve dissolved this evening. Shared a bottle of Chianti followed by neat craft Gin not to mention chocolate and pancakes.

Word is Oak is now wet so no harm done   

[nai]

Word is Oak is now wet so no harm done

But Horn to top is dry?

Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before.

[nai]

Lowering off the final anchors ... the photo is taken from where you start climbing. It's a monstrous route.

Looks (and sounds) amazing, good effort getting it done and sounds an amazing effort even getting to it over and over again.

[tomtom]

+1

[Nibile]

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest. Absolutely spent.
Wed - EMOM sets, cleans x10, snatch pulls x10, 15" lock offs x10. Normal service resumed.
Thu - dumbbell complex 10x10. Barbell shrugs.
Fri - EMOM sets, 30" overhead walk x10; 30" shoulder carry x10. Brutal. Spent.
Sat - rest.
Sun - board climbing! Big session with friends, too much volume, still very hot and humid but good fun. Luckily fingers felt fine. 10' of boxing bag afterwards left me completely spent. Brilliant.

[shark]

S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now   

Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.
Forecast looks dry all this week still

Yes really good nick. The river has virtually dried up. If I don't get any takers for Malham tomorrow I'll be heading back there.

Was looking thru the UKC logbooks last night and seen that you'd done Moffatricity and couldn't square that with the travails you've had with the eatswood Traverse.

[Duma]

Monday Gym AM
Tuesday Gym AM
Wednesday Gym AM
Thursday 7-8 mile walk PM
Friday Gym AM 6 mile walk PM
Saturday Gym AM
Sunday Dartmoor walk in the morning

Feeling a little better on the weights this week, pull ups still feel a long way off. Going to hospital for a check up tomorrow; very nervous. Hopefully all will be OK.

Hope it goes well Toby.

[filz]

M: Bas Cuvier. Wet from previous day. Tried a couple of easy blocks before going back to Italy.
T: assisted one harms. fb max hangs
W: pull ups
T: isometric weights. ab-wheel, headstand
F: rest
S: lunch board climbing. Eve tried a new circuit on rings: plank holds, push ups, dips, top position x 5 2-3' rest between circuits
S: climbing on nibs' board. Did better than what I expected.

[SA Chris]

M- Nuffink
T- Nuffink. Did a few bicep curls
W - hour  and a half session down the wall. Felt OK, already managing things I failed on last year. Should have stayed a bit longer, but got an aurora alert so went off with camera.
T - Nothing
F - packed, drove to Banff. Up watching and photographing aurora until about 1:30.
S - up at 7 - two hours great surf at Sandend. Went to Moray Monster trails. did about 20k on bike, fantastic single track. Gully Monster Black great fun - only fell off a couple of times, needs gorse cutting back in places though.
S - late start, long walk with family on beach near Montrose, glorious day.

[nai]

I will never complain about the journey time and cost to and from Malham again.

Well, I'll try not to at least.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[Will Hunt]

Looks (and sounds) amazing, good effort getting it done and sounds an amazing effort even getting to it over and over again.

Thanks! Yeah it is quite a faff as a day trip - about 50 minutes driving to the ferry terminal, usually about half an hour sitting in the car waiting to board, an hour and a half on the ferry, then about another 45-50 minutes driving to the cliff. And the ferry works out about $C100 each (~£60) if there are only two of you travelling. Pretty much every trip seems to include a discussion of how to make it easier, ranging from semi-sensible ideas (buy a cheap vehicle and leave it on the island) to stupid (float-plane ...). Anyway, it is easier than flying to Kalymnos - we are really lucky to have a proper tufa'ey limestone cliff within reach at all.

 

How does that compare to the average Canadian's average trip to the crag? I once met a Canadian couple so drove two hours each way to their local crag.

[Sidehaas]

S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now   

Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.
Forecast looks dry all this week still

Yes really good nick. The river has virtually dried up. If I don't get any takers for Malham tomorrow I'll be heading back there.

Was looking thru the UKC logbooks last night and seen that you'd done Moffatricity and couldn't square that with the travails you've had with the eatswood Traverse.

I think I find them similar difficulty overall if you have a kneepad on eatswood, but eatswood has got in my head more and I've had a couple of sessions in non ideal conditions. I had the opposite reaction to be honest ie was amazed how hard you were finding JR despite being able to do eatswood, as I don't think that move up is as hard as the eatswood crux in isolation! Each to their own

[dave]

It's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing.

[cjsheps]

Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.

Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".

 

 

[TobyD]

Hope it goes well Toby.

cheers mate, all seemed ok for the moment, got some reassuring words from a consultant, and got shown some really interesting 3d headscans (my head obviously).

[TobyD]

It's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing.

Perhaps more precisely only traversing isn't that great for upward climbing? Having said this, the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse for most people as far as i am aware. I didn't just look back at the thread again but I assume that was aimed at Simon?

[shark]

It's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing.

Perhaps more precisely only traversing isn't that great for upward climbing? Having said this, the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse for most people as far as i am aware. I didn't just look back at the thread again but I assume that was aimed at Simon?

Yes hes got it in for me irrespective. Thank you pointing out that the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse. Ill add that the crux of JR is also sideways as is most of Moffatrocity

[lagerstarfish]

Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.

Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".

 I am confused. Do the UKB power elite now consider it OK to recommend that Shark works on his stamina? It certainly didn't seem to be acceptable four months ago.

I took it that Ben was advocating the climbing version of interval running - which is for getting faster

everyone thinks Shark should climb faster (except Shark)

[dave]

Yes hes got it in for me irrespective.

Brilliant. If I had it in for you I'd be outside your house at 2am slashing your tyres, not making tongue-in-cheek wisecracks on the web about not taking advice.

On the contrary, I would love you to achieve your stated goal of doing the Oak and using it as a tool to make you better at bouldering and go bouldering more.

As it is, I'm struggling to see how you can train for a route involving font 7b/+ climbing by rarely bouldering harder than a couple of grades below that level.

[Doylo]

Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.

Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".

 I am confused. Do the UKB power elite now consider it OK to recommend that Shark works on his stamina? It certainly didn't seem to be acceptable four months ago.

He could probably do with a bit of both. I'd say more strength to regularly get through that low crux (if he could get through the first half of the route regularly he'd soon do the route). Moony's idea would be good for specific muscle memory and fitness but it would take a lot of motivation to make yourself do it and you might end up going stale on it mentally.  It was getting stronger that got me up my project this year, probably a similar amount of moves. The fitness kicks in when you start getting to the end but like I said if you're getting there regularly success probably isn't far away.