overlapping halves!
Quoteoverlapping halves!Nice one Simon!
Quote from: Duma on September 25, 2016, 05:16:43 pmQuoteoverlapping halves!Nice one Simon!Yeah that def means more. I like the idea of the second bolt to top link, would be a good confidence booster, plus trying it should give you the chance to do the throw move successfully with more moves beforehand, as it seems you're very often failing here from the ground, bit it's fine on its own.
Fri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it. Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off. Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.
Quote from: nai on September 25, 2016, 08:24:07 pmFri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it. Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off. Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.you need beta! its really easy when you have a bit of knowledge, Mr Shark gave me the numbers on this, and i may even have flashed this section IIRC. My memory is shit, (and was shit before smashing my head!) so i can't be of much help. Good luck with Aberration / Wales / BM.
Tom, I always understood Speckled Egg to be the thing starting standing there with a good pinchy sidepull undercut of LH, going over to a slot pocket then jug. That would be about the same place as your thing only you're veering slightly left at the top - same basic line though. Being the name of the buttress speckled egg has to be something fairly easy and obvious. The roof problem/s to the left of it are speckled egg indirect I think (there's more problems than names here though).
Goodbye youth
I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!)
Quote from: TobyD on September 25, 2016, 10:34:34 pmQuote from: nai on September 25, 2016, 08:24:07 pmFri - Tor - once up Body Machine, didn't really enjoy it. Second go still couldn't do moves past horrible sharp holds on lower wall (I've never done these moves in four sessions), got frustrated and sacked it off. Put clips in OT and had a single RP before the sun came round. Just missed with the long move, straight back on and went to top.you need beta! its really easy when you have a bit of knowledge, Mr Shark gave me the numbers on this, and i may even have flashed this section IIRC. My memory is shit, (and was shit before smashing my head!) so i can't be of much help. Good luck with Aberration / Wales / BM.I have the Shark beta (and beta from three other folk who have something that works for them), I really need to MTFU and just admit I am going to have to try really hard at this point, think I have some mental block about the route not even having started yet so wanting to breeze through those low moves without expending too much energy.
Quote from: Footwork on September 25, 2016, 11:05:23 pmGoodbye youth Aren't you about 24?!
Quote from: cheque on September 26, 2016, 09:20:03 amQuote from: Footwork on September 25, 2016, 11:05:23 pmGoodbye youth Aren't you about 24?!I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose...
Last year I ended up quite close to RBR a couple of times but ran out of skin and connies in the end. I had the problem fairly well dialled and could do the lower bit into the stand with a decent success rate. I dropped the last move to match the arête a couple of times. So that would seem to suggest that power endurance is my problem? What's the posh term that people use now? AeroPow? AnPow? AnCap? What does that even mean?
I find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floor
Quote from: Wood FT on September 26, 2016, 12:20:13 pmI find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floorI'd be happy to do BM from the break I think but not Proud Whore which looks waaaay better than BM. Gonna have to work it out, sure it'll just be down to micro beta and it'll all fall into place. Hopefully.
STG: Regular training, Skin maintenance
If you can make it over to the Depot, I'd recommend training on the roofs and barrel. Much more similar to RBR than a board.
Quote from: 36chambers on September 26, 2016, 02:51:05 pmIf you can make it over to the Depot, I'd recommend training on the roofs and barrel. Much more similar to RBR than a board. As an aside, is the beta for RBR (stand) just get the LH side-pull, RH around the arête, and then just campus up with the right until it's high enough to get your feet up (only video I've watched of it)? Or is there a nicer way? I had little play on it last time and it seemed like a world away. I'm normally reasonably happy around that grade (though only just getting back on the grit after a year or two off it).
Ancap: (30-40 seconds of climbing (12-15 moves) with rest = double time on wall) x 4. Then 10 min rest, repeat.Anpow: (5-7 moves with rest less than or equal to time on) x 4. 10 min rest, repeat.
You could easily set a problem similar to RBR, 10 moves (~50 seconds climbing, according to vimeo) with ~90 secs rest, repeat.
I don't suppose you've filmed yourself on RBR? I'd bet my bottom dollar that on your best goes you've come off because you've been on it for way in excess of a minute. No need to train, just climb quicker
As an aside, is the beta for RBR (stand) just get the LH side-pull, RH around the arête, and then just campus up with the right until it's high enough to get your feet up (only video I've watched of it)? Or is there a nicer way? I had little play on it last time and it seemed like a world away. I'm normally reasonably happy around that grade (though only just getting back on the grit after a year or two off it).
Quote from: Footwork on September 26, 2016, 01:11:14 pmQuote from: cheque on September 26, 2016, 09:20:03 amQuote from: Footwork on September 25, 2016, 11:05:23 pmGoodbye youth Aren't you about 24?!I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose... could be worse... you could look like him.... or even worse, be him.
Don't bring yourself down I hope one day I can climb those lofty sport grades with the same tenacity.
I know you have to cut out the "dead space" in your climbing, but I think climbing efficiently is optimal, rather than fast.
So AnCap and AnPow, are those what you'd recommend and a description of how to do them? How maximal are these 30-40 seconds of climbing supposed to be? Enough so that you can just about, or rather just not, complete a set?
Quote from: 36chambers on September 26, 2016, 02:51:05 pmYou could easily set a problem similar to RBR, 10 moves (~50 seconds climbing, according to vimeo) with ~90 secs rest, repeat.On the board, like? How maximal would this be? That's AnCap, yeah?
Finger feeling improved from a week ago.
Quote from: Coops_13 on September 26, 2016, 07:51:55 pm Finger feeling improved from a week ago.Good to hear buddy! Quality power noises on the video!
Quote from: nai on September 26, 2016, 02:56:08 pmQuote from: Wood FT on September 26, 2016, 12:20:13 pmI find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floorI'd be happy to do BM from the break I think but not Proud Whore which looks waaaay better than BM. Gonna have to work it out, sure it'll just be down to micro beta and it'll all fall into place. Hopefully.Push-up feels gnarly, sharp and nasty to begin with (E56c says it all) but strangely enjoyable once wired
I'd be keen to give it (and the SS) a go again too so if you need extra pads/spotters then let me know.
.... I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!) Hopefully back up in sheffield for a quick visit in the next week, first time i'll have been back home since June!
Quote from: TobyD on September 25, 2016, 11:05:13 pm.... I probably could do some easy toproping but not yet found the right person available at the right time (I'm thinking indoor wall, quiet as possible, extremely attentive belayer!) Hopefully back up in sheffield for a quick visit in the next week, first time i'll have been back home since June!Autobelay? Good opportunity to do lots of easy laps and get a great base of aerobic capacity. /Barrows
So, been and managed the moves today. Sod larking about with a thumb for the RH, crimp the bollocks off of it, twist RF and stand up into the LH sidepull. Taking RH gaston leaves me too stretched so use a pinch under the roof to get RF on and stand up. Felt ok but still more gnarly, sharp and nasty than enjoyable.
Quote from: nai on September 27, 2016, 02:58:18 pmSo, been and managed the moves today. Sod larking about with a thumb for the RH, crimp the bollocks off of it, twist RF and stand up into the LH sidepull. Taking RH gaston leaves me too stretched so use a pinch under the roof to get RF on and stand up. Felt ok but still more gnarly, sharp and nasty than enjoyable.Nice Ian. Sounds kind of familiar. I think the very bendy legged have an easier time on this perhaps, more weight on feet i'd guess. I remember not really pulling on the razory wafer thing, more using it for balance? Get stretching?!
Su - Planned to meet Filz at Cuvier, I arrived early and climbed as crap as I usually do there. Did some easier stuff, bashed my knuckles in on a orange problem. Lack of network meant we didn't manage to meet as planned, but found each other by luck. I was trying this again https://bleau.info/cuvier/8331.html. We had a couple of goes each, then decided he'd better see Cuvier before it rained, we walked a few feet and it started raining. Chatted under charcuterie for a bit, then went home. Hope he has better luck tomorrow.
I'll be heading to the Foundry quite regularly from November and will be happy to give you a belay.