[Bonjoy]

The first is a sit start to Moo Cow at Shining Cliff. The new moves aren't that hard but they do make a good prob into a really good one I think. The grade is a bit  . Think the stander is probably 7b rather than the 7a+ I gave it originally and the sitter adds a grade (or maybe not) so 7b+. Meh, whatever.


Next up Colder Compass a 6C low start to the bouldery start of the route Cold Compass (E2 6b) at Birchen. The landing needs two pads. Vaguely reminded me of Happy Days at Brimham.


Last up and on the roof left of Cold Compass, the bottom of Nelson's Slab. I've seen chalk on some of the holds before and the pockets looked like they'd been used before, so won't be too surprised if my claim flushes out some retro monkey or other. Starting on the plinth with hands in two big pocket undercuts, then climb the lip and pocketed roof all the way i.e. keeping feet off the back wall. Called Iron Eye and about 7a+.

[Fiend]

Nice one Dovejoy, good to get videos of thm.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers Mat. I've fashion a monopod out of a sharpened stick now so it's a bit easier to get vids.

[Tommy]

Nice one - always cracking them out. Thanks also for the vids - I'd like more "thumbs up" at the finishing jug please :-).

I think going down there a million times must have given me RSI as I was injured 2 days after my last ever trip down there. Amen, no more rat crimps.

[Jim]

some good noises there Jon !

[Bonjoy]

Did Iron Eye with better/more logical foot rule t'other day. Rather than use the plinth for feet at the start you start sat on it and don't use it for feet. Just about worth 7b this way and better. Have dubbed this version Iron Eyes to distinguish on pb.info (I'd have just changed the Iron Eye description to the new beta but it already had the vid with the old beta so would have been confusing).
Also added a new 7a to the same buttress as Colder Compass. This clamps up the right arete of the prow/bulge left of the direct start to Ratline. Start in slots on the front. I've called it Scuttlebutt and its about 7a.

[Yoof]

Slightly confused about the line of scuttlebutt (though I've not got a guide with me, and I'm in south Wales so I'm going from memory), does it clamp out along the roof right of cold compass (underneath the traverse on sail butress)? If so, then awesome! I've always wondered about that as a line  If not, where does it go? Perhaps a topo would help?

[Bonjoy]

No it's not the obvious LGP round the nose of Sail Buttress (looks good and not too hard  but needs a fair size pile of pads).
It's the undercut arete above the girl on this pic.

[Yoof]

Ah, ok. Looks like it could be fun, I may well give them a whirl next time I'm up at Birchen  Thanks for the clarification.

[highrepute]

Climbed this today because I'd misunderstood the description of Iron Eyes on pb; hadn't read this thread. Been done before?

[Scouse D]

Looks good that

[highrepute]

No claims? I thought it climbed well, eliminating the plinth sort of forces you to climb it a certain way which maybe detracts. a taller person might not get so much roof action.

Maybe I should come up with a name.

[36chambers]

No claims? I thought it climbed well, eliminating the plinth sort of forces you to climb it a certain way which maybe detracts. a taller person might not get so much roof action.

Maybe I should come up with a name.

Iron Ties

[old cheese]

Grid scuttlebutt at the weekend. As soon as I allowed myself to use the vague lump right of the arete it went quickly and was a nice movement. Couldn't get my legs to bend the right way for iron eyes though, tough

[highrepute]

Good to see a bit of interest stirred up, possibly by my post. Couple of friends also reported that they found Iron Eyes hard and didn't manage it.

[cofe]

Did Iron Eye this avo. Seemed logical to use plinth for feet at start. Tough finish. Good problem.

Also did Scrim Net at left-hand end. Good little highball.