[36chambers]

New route at Dovedale by Joe Heeley

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=431595

https://www.instagram.com/p/BKiFecThbmd/?taken-by=monkeytimefilms

[shark]

It is on Adjudicator Wall

Yeah, it goes direct through what was on old bolted line that zippy put in and then goes direct through the head wall and bulge above.

Good to have a keen youth scouring the Peak for gaps

[Paul B]

I'd be interested to know what it'd get as a sport route?

[BID]

I'd be interested to know what it'd get as a sport route?

Joe and Kyle said about 8a+

[Bonjoy]

It was down in the Rockfax as an open proj with a guessed grade of 8a, but that may not have included the upper section.

[Wood FT]

Big grade for peak limestone trad, Dovedale seems in vogue right now. Walked past Joe and Kyle on the way out of dovedale a few months back and they were cagey about what they were up to, good effort for getting it done.

[AlistairB]

Big grade for peak limestone trad

Yep, I reckon that's why Tom didn't give Final Round an E-grade, it's sticking your neck out to give anything more than E7 on peak lime! It's cool that there are still things like this to be done in the peak, Dovedale is such a great setting too.

[Footwork]

We need the P. Whittaker grading system more than ever!

[SA Chris]

Good to have a keen youth scouring the Peak for Gaps

Surely there aren't any, just nip to Meadowhell.

[Fiend]

Great stuff. That actually looks really good for grotty peak limestone. I like the down to earth feel of the film and lack of annoying bullshit editing. The crux wire too....lol. Good effort without pads too.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

What a tremendous and inspiring statement!

There should be zero concern about the grade too - other than perhaps upping it a notch. Give it E20 or whatever, who cares. The effort and commitment to go out there on a limb and get it done should be applauded. Full stop.

F'ing great effort lads.

 

[Wood FT]

The route looks good, lovely looking rock and a good slap. It's so nice down Dovedale, especially so on late summer evenings when the walkers have gone home.

I do care about the grade as it's a historic moment for Peak lime trad climbing which I take a great interest in. I've read Muy Caliente is limestone 8a+ with a risky bit and viewed as E9, so if Joe thinks Eyes Wide Shut is 8a+ with a risky bit I guess he must see it along those same lines?

Well done Joe, you and Kyle seemed to be seeking out new stuff and this looks like a good one indeed.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Yes, but surely the grade isn't a score, or "prize", though admittedly it often gets used that way.

Too often, people are put down for offering grades a bit above what a route settles at.

As with James Pearson's efforts in the South West, what I see here is enthusiasm, great commitment and principle, dedication and some pretty pokey hard climbing.

What we're left with, is an honest account too. Great.

It's a bit tragic, if we're at a point where you need a longer neck to grade the route, than you do to climb it!

I think that we'd all rather see more of this action, than less of it, simply because people are afraid of the put downs that often follow.

This is so clearly a case of it being the climbing that matters.

   Who do I Wad?

[T_B]

   Who do I Wad?

Yourself Dave. Oh, wait you can't. Have one from me 

[Baldy]

I'm glad everyone is being decent about the grading decision.

I had a really long chat with Joe about the subject on the walk out, and unfortunately my camera ran out before he had the chance to explain his thoughts on the rope - otherwise I would have left it in.

I'm sure if you catch him down at the wall, then he'll be just as honest about his thought process - but in short - he's quite prepared for someone to go along, do the repeat, and offer a more experienced view. He's definitely aware that he hasn't climbed a multitude of limestone E8/E9's to work from but given the objective difficulty and serious nature of the climbing (with that last piece of gear falling out - you're looking at a groundfall from 20m up, and it is definitely not and easy move) he felt that the grade was justified, even if only as a warning to the E8 crankers not to get too carried away with it.

[mark20]

Looks brilliant. Great video too. Well done Joe

[36chambers]

(with that last piece of gear falling out - you're looking at a groundfall from 20m up, and it is definitely not and easy move)

Is the rest of the gear pretty bad then? The next piece only looked about 2-3 feet below the one that he knocked out and the piece after that another 2 feet lower. 

[Baldy]

Difficult to say, and I'm definitely not the one to declare the quality of gear or rock (proper boulderer/sport junkie), but it is all quite small placements (Brass Head RP type things), and Joe seemed to think that the rock was a little friable in the placements.

Again - he didn't fall on any of it, and didn't do any tests on the gear.   

If someone gets up there and takes some whippers on it, and it all holds - then I guess E8 would seem reasonable.
If they deck out and break something, then E9 sounds good.

[Jaspersharpe]

Great looking route and nice video. Brilliant to see some old skool Peak lime trad getting done, looks scary and hard. 8a+ on dodgy gear has gotta be E9 surely?

[Paul B]

Nice looking rock that!

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Again - he didn't fall on any of it, and didn't do any tests on the gear.   

If someone gets up there and takes some whippers on it, and it all holds - then I guess E8 would seem reasonable.
If they deck out and break something, then E9 sounds good.

Good ethics too. Depending on small placements in limestone is always scary. Some of those did look dodgy.

I guess this route is ripe for more "Maybe that was the E9" comments from Grimer - and a bit of "something fell out of your bottom" too 

Any takers for "..repeated the route quickly afterwards to confirm grade and quality"?

Good work.

(Hey, thanks T_B    )

[Baldy]

Guaranteed quality - I did (most of) the moves on it on the first session out there, and it climbs superbly.

Techy yet powerful slab into decent holds but skatey feet, super gear placement followed by a nice rest to psyche yourself up (or out) for the top.

Genuinely not a duff move on it. Highly recommended. 5*. Would top-rope again.

[DubDom]

Wow! Nuts! 

[Gus]

Again - he didn't fall on any of it, and didn't do any tests on the gear.   

If someone gets up there and takes some whippers on it, and it all holds - then I guess E8 would seem reasonable.
If they deck out and break something, then E9 sounds good.

It's almost like "that is the E9" you might say

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Yes, re "that is the E9" . We should probably add that that's a reference to Seb's lob onto the flake - now broken - on Parthian in the Hard Grit vid. Never before tested.

Scary