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Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes (Read 3526 times)

weakdave

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Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 07:43:17 am
Anyone looking at selling any of the following:-

5.10
Blancos uk8
Pinks uk7.5

Scarpa
Instinct vs uk8
Vapour lace uk7.5

La Sportiva
Miura lace eu40
Miura vs eu40.5
Katana lace eu40.5

Or anything else I might have missed that could do the job

Cheers

duncan

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#1 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 09:51:01 am
Tenaya Masai. Medium-stiff, very precise edging, a lot like old-school Pinks. Quite narrow fit.

haydn jones

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#2 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 11:33:19 am
Evolve bandits are cheaps and stiff

shark

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#3 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 12:17:16 pm
Evolve bandits are cheaps and stiff

Good all rounder, comfortable and affordable. Moderately stiff but lacks precision 

Teaboy

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#4 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 12:56:27 pm
As a matter of interest Shark, how are you getting on with the Verdons? Did you use them on your return to the Oak last week?

weakdave

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#5 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 01:35:51 pm
I am put off bandits by the stench I have had from other evolv models. Worse than 5.10, in my opinion!

shark

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#6 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 01:44:53 pm
As a matter of interest Shark, how are you getting on with the Verdons? Did you use them on your return to the Oak last week?

No I broke open a new pair of whites. I noted like Tom that the inside edge is not as stable as the Whites and so thought that they would be poor on the third move. Probably worth testing though.

In general I really like the Verdons especially their ability to poke into awkward holds and pockets.     

shark

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#7 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 01:46:57 pm
I am put off bandits by the stench I have had from other evolv models. Worse than 5.10, in my opinion!

My eldest son has rancid feet and I got him a pair of boot bananas which work really well

weakdave

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#8 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 01:54:33 pm
Tried that. It did make them more bareable

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kelvin

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#10 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 07:12:36 pm
Evolve bandits are cheaps and stiff

Good all rounder, comfortable and affordable. Moderately stiff but lacks precision

The lace version is a slightly smaller last and I find them much better on limestone. Velcros in the same size are much better at smearing. Having had about seven pairs, I'd say the only drawback is they lack feeling.

kingholmesy

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#11 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 08:14:05 pm
Tenaya Masai. Medium-stiff, very precise edging, a lot like old-school Pinks. Quite narrow fit.

+1 to this if you want a stiff narrow shoe.  Not sure if the rubber is quite as good as 5.10 but they're relatively cheap.

kingholmesy

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#12 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 08:16:25 pm
Forgot to say, if you get a pair bear in mind that they don't stretch much.

weakdave

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#13 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 09, 2016, 08:38:29 pm
Got some masai and really like them but dont find them that stiff... Maybe I need a half size smaller?

kingholmesy

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#14 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 10, 2016, 12:13:02 am
Wish I'd sized mine half a size bigger!  Got them tight and they've stretched too little to be useable for trad.

kingholmesy

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#15 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 10, 2016, 12:17:27 am
BTW, how do the Masai compare to the new pinks for performance and for sizing?

I used to love the old pinks, but haven't tried the new ones yet and am tempted to get a pair.  I'd prefer something low volume in the toe box and not super stiff.

ghisino

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#16 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 10, 2016, 07:58:56 am
Just to make things more complicated.

I've extensively used a pair of Wild Climb Pantera Vs'  and they are pretty stiff/edging oriented, at least when new. They are reminiscent of a miura Vs but with a narrower fit in the front and slightly looser heel.
I also have the blue lace version, half size up, and it feels more of an allrounder (maybe the toe rubber stiffens the shoe?).

the real reason i like them though, is that they are often very cheap @epicTV, and have a little italian banner on the side  :)
Sizing: same as blancos for me (although the shape is completely different).


sidewinder

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#17 Re: Wanted: Stiff(ish) edging shoes
September 10, 2016, 09:13:52 am
Am trying the la sportiva otaki, seem good so far, am 9.5 in dragons 7.5 in Velcro anasazis and 6 in the otaki. I was a big fan of the Velcro bandits (lace ones didn't fit as I have a reasonably broad forefoot)

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