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North Wales Bouldering guide news... (Read 35638 times)

remus

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#25 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 09, 2016, 10:57:31 pm
the boss will have some ideas

Bruce Springsteen?

At least you will only have to change the cover slightly.


Funnily enough the decision on the cover is causing me some consternation - I've got three alternatives pasted on the office wall and I change my mind about which one I prefer every day...

time for a poll?


petejh

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#26 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 08:24:29 am

Robins , Robins and Robins? 

I wonder what percentage of problems with a named first ascensionst in the guide are his?

Closest guess wins a free copy. I'm guessing 10%

Doylo

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#27 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 08:40:21 am
Panton's done 14 676 7As though.

El Mocho

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#28 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 08:50:27 am
100% of the good ones ;)

Pantontino

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#29 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:06:01 pm
100% of the good ones ;)

Oh, let me see now...  :-\ I reckon King of Drunks is quite a bit better than that arbitrary piece of shite, Lip Flip low start that you did at Ysgo.

...or, how about The Tench at Pant Ifan:



Let me know how crap you think that is when you go and do it.  ;)

Pantontino

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#30 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:06:45 pm
Panton's done 14 676 7As though.

15, 350 at last count, actually.

Pantontino

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#31 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:12:01 pm
the boss will have some ideas

Bruce Springsteen?

At least you will only have to change the cover slightly.


Funnily enough the decision on the cover is causing me some consternation - I've got three alternatives pasted on the office wall and I change my mind about which one I prefer every day...

Robins , Robins and Robins?

One is Robins on Anthrapoid at Porth Ysgo, one is Miles Perkin on Ultimate Warrior in Cwm Pennant and the other is Laura Perry on Jerry's Wall in the Pass.

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#32 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:16:32 pm
Need a hand with proof reading/final checking etc..? I know RMan got a few people (I was one) to look over a couple of sections each when he was doing the Lancs Guide.

El Mocho

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#33 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:17:39 pm
Lip Flip low start that you did at Ysgo.

I walked past that during the summer and I couldn't even work out where it went!

The only reason I know how "good" all of Petes are is he phones me up to tell me, then a day later Caff phones me up to say how shit they are. Things like the Pant Ifan stuff is exactly why people are so excited by the new guide, guess it won't be ready for my Christmas stocking though.

Pantontino

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#34 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:22:59 pm

Robins , Robins and Robins? 

I wonder what percentage of problems with a named first ascensionst in the guide are his?

Closest guess wins a free copy. I'm guessing 10%

The number of 7 + 8 fas he has done in the last few years is phenomenal. I reckon he wins overall (bear in mind that fa details are not normally given for easier problems)

Maybe me next (just because I've been at it for twenty years), then Owen Hayward and Martin Crook are very prolific.

Nodder has done a lot of really classic lines - certainly a sizeable proportion of the ones that visitors seek out.

Doylo

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#35 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:30:18 pm
I reckon Nodder should be on the front.

Pantontino

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#36 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:34:11 pm
Lip Flip low start that you did at Ysgo.

I walked past that during the summer and I couldn't even work out where it went!

The only reason I know how "good" all of Petes are is he phones me up to tell me, then a day later Caff phones me up to say how shit they are. Things like the Pant Ifan stuff is exactly why people are so excited by the new guide, guess it won't be ready for my Christmas stocking though.

It took me a while to decipher the meaning of your original description - but it does make sense when you get up close. Here's the relevant page:

« Last Edit: November 10, 2016, 12:55:33 pm by Pantontino »

Pantontino

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#37 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:38:08 pm
I reckon Nodder should be on the front.

In terms of outstanding contribution, perhaps. However Pete has pushed ahead on that front in recent years, and he will be losing his position from the slate guide - when we do the revamp of that Caff will be on the front.

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#38 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:44:58 pm
The layout looks excellent. I'm glad you're including relatively thorough descriptions of the problems :)

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#39 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:57:57 pm
One is Robins on Anthrapoid at Porth Ysgo, one is Miles Perkin on Ultimate Warrior in Cwm Pennant and the other is Laura Perry on Jerry's Wall in the Pass.

The only British bouldering guide I can find with a lady on the cover is the guide to the Peak that isn't the Vertebrate one - I think it'd be cool to see that ratio shift a bit!

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#40 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 12:58:50 pm
Need a hand with proof reading/final checking etc..? I know RMan got a few people (I was one) to look over a couple of sections each when he was doing the Lancs Guide.

Maybe if you think you've got the time. There is a feedback group already, plus a few people doing some detailed proofing, but an extra pair of eyes could help.

Pantontino

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#41 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 01:01:16 pm
One is Robins on Anthrapoid at Porth Ysgo, one is Miles Perkin on Ultimate Warrior in Cwm Pennant and the other is Laura Perry on Jerry's Wall in the Pass.

The only British bouldering guide I can find with a lady on the cover is the guide to the Peak that isn't the Vertebrate one - I think it'd be cool to see that ratio shift a bit!

My daughter has made the same point to me, especially given the relatively low percentage of female action shots inside the guide.

Doylo

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#42 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 01:12:00 pm
I think it should be someone who's contributed though. Not just a token shot.

petejh

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#43 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 01:17:31 pm
My vote's for a female.

Pete must be one of the most prolific 'front covers' - Llanberis; Slate (other one?); and 'guidebook photos' ever!

He deserves it though as it reflects how much he's contributed to bouldering, sport and trad. Not just routes and probs either he writes a lot of scripts!

A female on the cover would be a welcome change of tack - although it wouldn't be reflective of who actually contributes first ascents it would reflect the increasing number of women who go bouldering.

Weird that FAs are so skewed to the guys. Maybe it's an exploratory urge thing?


edit -Doylo in a wig and pink E9 pants.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2016, 01:22:39 pm by petejh »

joel182

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#44 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 01:40:53 pm
One is Robins on Anthrapoid at Porth Ysgo, one is Miles Perkin on Ultimate Warrior in Cwm Pennant and the other is Laura Perry on Jerry's Wall in the Pass.

The only British bouldering guide I can find with a lady on the cover is the guide to the Peak that isn't the Vertebrate one - I think it'd be cool to see that ratio shift a bit!

My daughter has made the same point to me, especially given the relatively low percentage of female action shots inside the guide.

Really glad to hear it's something you've been thinking about.

Just had a flick through Boulder Britain - ~440 pages, and I reckon about 20 shots of girls climbing in the whole thing, the ~40 pages on Scotland have about 20 pictures of guys climbing (I think the book is great, fwiw, just hope that the ratio will change a bit in the future!).

Anyway, really looking forward to getting a copy of the book whoever is on the cover!

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#45 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 01:42:55 pm

Weird that FAs are so skewed to the guys. Maybe it's an exploratory urge thing?


My Mrs spoke at the Wimmin's Climbing Symposium about this, as she has put up a few problems in the 6s on Stanage. She used it as an example of 'goal setting' when you can't be cranking at your hardest (in her case, post babies). Anyway, she's definitely into looking for new lines and has got another potential proj lined up.

I would definitely put a woman on the front, given that it's a commercial guidebook and the market for women who go bouldering is boomtastic.

36chambers

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#46 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 01:54:33 pm
I'm heading to north wales with my GF this weekend. Although it looks like it will rain I could convince her to pull onto The Edge Wall in the pass for a quick photo? At the very least I could get a shot of her looking at Jerry's Roof. ;)

But in all seriousness, a girl on the front cover would be nice. From what I'm aware there's a good scene of strong female boulderers in Wales. A female front cover worthy shot might already exist.

Apologises that these comments aren't making the cover decision easier, you could put a mug shot of Caff on it and I'd still buy it :thumbsup: 

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#47 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 02:06:08 pm
As a compromise has Wales got any blokes who look like girls from the back? We got at least one in the Peak.

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#48 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 02:55:44 pm
As a compromise has Wales got any blokes who look like girls from the back? We got at least one in the Peak.

Had, JBs lost too much hair now...

petejh

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#49 Re: North Wales Bouldering guide news...
November 10, 2016, 05:20:25 pm
As a compromise has Wales got any blokes who look like girls from the back? We got at least one in the Peak.

And one or two girls that look like blokes!

 (that can't be considered sexist) 😇

 

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