[fried]

STG - Tick some stuff off.
MTG - 2x 6B at Gorge aux chats.
LTG - 7A by 50

M - BM session 5x5 on easy sloper. 30 mins. Found some mini jenga blocks that I can use to get a shallower deep pocket.
T - Rest
W - Indoor, easy session first without aircast, took some falls, seemed O.K if not completely perfect.
Th - Rest

F - Day off, I'd compiled a list of all the 5C/6A problems that I've had a decent session or 2 on, then given up. Decided to actually just pick a problem and try to finish it, rather than flitting about.

Went to Segognole to try l'excentrique https://bleau.info/segognole/10584.html. Warmed up quickly, then got straight on it, took about 10 goes over 45 mins or so. Tried to get it on film, but got stagefright. I've backed off the top out before, nice low ball problem.

Decided to move on to Canche aux Mercier and Tirroir secret https://bleau.info/canche/3625.html. I have a big problem on this, usually knee barring the start, then failing to hit a crimp at the top, changed my starting position and it all felt much easier, don't know how many mini sessions I've wasted on this. Quickly got to the top move, but backed off, didn't fancy having my foot pop. Tried to find a safer option, but not happening, fingers very sore, shoulder aching. Very hot in the sun.

Had a rest and then had a couple of goes on Jeu des Jambes, but just too knackered. Good day out.

Sa - Rest, ache everywhere, excellent.
Su - Decided against a session, as I'm back in the forest on Tuesday. Repeated Tues BM session, using reduced deep pockets/slopers.

[tomtom]

Cheers fried...

Su: Drove from Manchester to North Norfolk to stay with the in-laws in their Dacha a few miles from the coast...

Mo: Chilled. Ate. Swam in sea.

Tu: Fingerboard session on my CRUSHER (tm) mobile fingerboard.. good - weird hanging on a wobbly suspended by cord board though! Tested some new muscles on different (from a BM) holds..

We: More relaxation, crab sandwiches and chips on the beach...

Th: Drive to Southwold (nearly 2 hours each way) to introduce TT jnr to his great grandparents.. and back...

Fr: More fingerboard, - long swim (by my ineffective standards) in the sea...

Sa: Drive back in the pissing rain...

Su: Might do some weighted deadhangs if I can be bothered

Well hopefully kept my fingers in some sort of shape while away. Swimming felt great for my back and shoulders - should do more.. only managed to put on 3lbs..

[nai]

goals:
Autumn - Powerplant looking unlikely & lost a bit of psyche for Raindogs.  Aberration, Body Machine, Obscene Toilet.
Winter - another training block.
Spring - likely some or all of those listed above

M - Two Tier - had a look at Aberration having enjoyed Celebration so much, luckily partner had done it recently so talked through it.  Two working goes and felt ready for a RP.  Not a great attempt, messed up start of Celebration but got to crux before falling.  Did it in three (which isn't so bad really for third burn on an 8a with far from ideal prep).  Felt tired and tips were on fire, decided I wasn't going to get up it or learn any more so stripped it and couldn't find the motivation to do anything else.

T - nowt

W - foot on campussing -  bit disappointing, not making the same advances as in the last block.

Th - rest

F -
AM - Fingerboard
PM - foundry with kids - AeroPow 3 x 2 x 30 moves on lattice board + new 7a+s on autobelay

Sat
Foundry with eldest - 3x10 mins AeroCap on autobelays, mostly 6b up and down but did sections of 7a.
Core

S rest

Kids are back to school this week thankfully so will start getting out again.

[Nibile]

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Low Intensity PE, strangely after some rest I was immediately back almost to my PB. 3'20" off the couch, then two sets of 1'30" without matching. Flapper stopped play, dammit. Felt good. Ab wheel, one single max with 1'20" pause at full extension, then 2x30". Rings, I's and cross progression. Muscle snatch at 36 kg + overhead carry 15" x10. Snatch high pulls x8. Good, good session.
Thu - upright rows wide grip x10, chin ups x5 (5' pause at 90%), x10. Not bad. Tired forearms.
Fri - dumbbell complex, cleans. Fast and furious.
Sat - rest.
Sun - new system session, no crimping. Same excercise, 10 sets. Usual foot on campusing, still half crimp. Harder. One small PE round. Painful. Overhead carry, barbell carry, waiter carry x2. Hill sprints. I'm definitely back. Hopefully avoiding full crimps will help my index. Glad to know my half crimp is still fine.

[36chambers]

STG: Follow a training plan for winter. Weather depending.
MTG: Zoo York, Ben's Groove sitter.
LTG: 8B

M: Called in at Shaftoe on my way back from Scotland. Highlights being Timmy Tip Toes 7A+ and Viagra Sitter 7B (started as low as possible to warrant the grade). I thought the former was excellent, containing everything required for a three star problem.
T:
W: Wetherby. First time there. It's okay. Was keen to try Lipo Suction 7C as I heard it was a lip traverse. Didn't realise it was a 20m long stamina fest though. Eugh. Didn't even get round to trying it.
T: Indoors. I've started climbing the 50 board using the terrible wooden feet rather than the resin ones. I'm effectively jumping between holds as it's practically impossible to use the feet for my usual routine.
F:
S: Indoors. Another session on the 50 using the wooden feet. I'm still just throwing between jugs. I actually consider my ability to keep my feet on to be my greatest climbing asset, and since it's way easier to do the moves with a cut loose, I'm undecided whether this is more effective training than using worse holds but better feet.
S: Terrible weather so bailed to Almscliff. May have found a few FAs...

[Coops_13]

STG: Tick some things in Magic Wood
MTG: Heal myself and get solid at 7B
LTG: 8A

M: Empire Crag above Llandudno. Great fun short bouldery jugfests. Flashed 6c, on sighted 7a, 7a+ 1st RP.
T
W
T
F
S: Got to Magic Wood half an hour before dark. Went and tried Enterprise, got it in the dark with a lot of screaming. Sweaty and humid conditions...
S: First full day in the wood. Did the classic highball Blue sky of mine 6A+, then went and did Blindflug 7A. Had to do weird move to reach past the dirt crimps but was happy when it went. O/Sed a 6C as a mate was trying Intermezzo. Fingers too bad to try Dinos... Failed on James Bong before going and getting Hob den Ausch 7A. Very good climbing with a Fontesque top out. Shame the crux was not dabbing the start. Rain stopped play.

Good start to Magic Wood though raining now so might have a couple of enforced rest days. Finger limits what I can do and can hurt a fair bit after a big try. But no lasting damage.

[SA Chris]

STG - keep weight down stay fit.
MTG - get climbing again.
LTG - get strong

M - run, 10k hill repeats, only got a bit wet
T - short run with Kyle
W - tried a brick 11k bike, followed by 6 k run. Tough
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Charity Bike ride 67.5k plus 2 x 2 k from home to start and back. Felt OK, apart from final tough climb out of Stonehaven. Managed to keep ave speed over 24km/hr. Short walk to beach with kids in afternoon.

[Luke Owens]

M: AeroPow - Foot-on Campus
1min on 1min jug shake out x 4
1min on 2min jug shake out x 4
Failed towards the end of rep 8

T: 2 x 10 LI - Aerocap

W: Diamond - Bit rushed given the tide/nights drawing in. Went up N-TS to put the clips in and figured out better body positions for the rests.

Came down and went straight for a redpoint. Got to a new high point, managed to recover better on the rests but still not enough, from the 2nd rest managed 4 moves when I'd previously managed 1. 4 moves to go then I won't drop the top.

Had to boulder hop and jump to the access ladder in the dark to escape

T: Rest

F: AeroPow - Foot-on Campus
1min on - 1:30min jug shake out rest x 8

Only just managed to complete rep 8, pumped into oblivion...

S: Rest

S: Diamond - Conditions suprisingly OK. First go to put the clips in on N-TS, 1st redpoint got to a high point, the very last hard move, failed to latch the flatty off the sloping pinch, so close! 2nd redpoint fell one move lower, both attempts higher than last sesh.

Time on the route getting pumped and AeroPow seem to be doing the trick, so close to getting it done now!

[filz]

M: last day in Iceland. nothing
T: back home. theraband exercises, pull ups
W: rest
T: lunch: pull ups, headstands. eve: rings top position, front levers progression, knee raises, lateral plank, planks, bridges
F: isometric weights. front levers progression
S: fb
S: back on the board after a couple of months. feeling heavy, slow and imprecise

[Dolly]

Tu: Fingerboard session on my CRUSHER (tm) mobile fingerboard.. good - weird hanging on a wobbly suspended by cord board though! Tested some new muscles on different (from a BM) holds..

Which of their mobile fingerboards was it Tom ?

[shark]

Tu: Fingerboard session on my CRUSHER (tm) mobile fingerboard.. good - weird hanging on a wobbly suspended by cord board though! Tested some new muscles on different (from a BM) holds..

Which of their mobile fingerboards was it Tom ?

Hey Dolly - whilst I think about it - what was that finger massage device you use?

[Dolly]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LXU40MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Don't use it in public though - unless both hands are clearly visible and above waist level.

[nai]

I find the spikey ones more effective. The larger ones are easier to use but the spikey ones seem to provide better stimulation.  And careful where you buy from, lots of them seem to come from far east.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anself-Finger-Massage-Acupuncture-Massager/dp/B00UIZOVAW/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1473074065&sr=8-6&keywords=finger+massager

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Effort Luke, sounds close!


Last week of ticking over (but not much ticking)

M. Bolting at crag x, a minor classic in the bag.
T. Flew home.
W. Devils Gorge after work. Only enough light for one rp on Born Slippy. Fell on thin crux of Underworld, then linked to the chains. Not enough light for a second attempt.
T.
F.
S.
S. One hour on pillbox wall in the evening. Did Pill Box Original then tried Chocolate Wall, kept getting hand over the hold but not holding it. Nice prob.


Not a lot going on psych-wise, dramas elsewhere taking precedence.

[duncan]

STG: Shoulder maintenance exercises at least twice weekly. Bouldering or fingerboard twice weekly.
MTG: Don’t embarrass myself on Caveman. Maintain around 70kg
LTG: Font 7A. Sport 7b+. Something properly long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).

M -
T -
W - Shoulder maintenance exercises
T - Pull-ups
F - Shoulder maintenance
S -
S - High Tor, with the retired super-alpinist. Good scenes: teams on - and off - Darius, Tales, Flaky, and Robert Brown. Peak trad. limestone not dead yet! Warmed-up on a couple of the right-wing sport routes, got on Supersonic, and was thoroughly spanked. Took falls getting out of the bottom groove and then again on the crack leading into Flaky. The moves were a bit harder than I was expecting, the style felt alien, and I was very tense and climbing poorly. Followed Original Route direct and Flaky Wall to get the gear out for another team. Epic drive in both directions.


Disappointed with my efforts on Supersonic but glad to have given it a try. It's good to fail sometimes. On reflection my preparation hasn't been ideal, I've done enough trad. climbing recently to be happy moving above gear but more ‘the leader must not fall’ than ‘the leader it quite likely to fall but will be fine’, which needs a different kind of confidence. I've definitely not done enough UK 6a, ideally a couple of proper E4s in a similar style. I love High Tor and the angle suits me but it's a couple of years since I've climbed on peak lime and I really missed friction and footholds! Pembroke would have been better for me but the weather didn't agree. Most importantly I need to manage the stress of ‘big deal’ routes better. This was a bit of a surprise because I’m usually fairly good at staying calm. Climbing E5 has been a big aim for a few years and when I finally got on one it was all bit much. It also felt like the final and best opportunity to try an E5 this year, which further increased the pressure. 

Plan: life will curtail outdoor climbing somewhat for the next few months, time to focus on getting stronger. Bouldering, fingerboarding and redpointing ahoy!

[Dolly]

I find the spikey ones more effective. The larger ones are easier to use but the spikey ones seem to provide better stimulation.  And careful where you buy from, lots of them seem to come from far east.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anself-Finger-Massage-Acupuncture-Massager/dp/B00UIZOVAW/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1473074065&sr=8-6&keywords=finger+massager

yeah I've got one of those as well.
I think the larger ones are good for massaging out tweaky tendons, if anyone ever suffers from those

[nai]

Actually true, you can get into the A1 a lot better with them. Ach they're peanuts, ust buy both, but not from Hong Kong.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Tu: Fingerboard session on my CRUSHER (tm) mobile fingerboard.. good - weird hanging on a wobbly suspended by cord board though! Tested some new muscles on different (from a BM) holds..

Which of their mobile fingerboards was it Tom ?

It was the mission: http://crusherholds.co.uk/crusher-mission-portable-hangboard-fingerboard

[Muenchener]

STG: none in particular
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: rest
T: 40 minutes mobility (ha! not much after Saturday) & core
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Half an hour light bouldering & half a dozen easy routes just to get some movement back into alpine traumatised shoulders.
T: rest
F: rest
S: Wetterstein. Hiked up to the amazing-looking Scharnitzspitze and Schüsselkarspitze south faces. Was interested to have a look at them, and indeed there is some impressive rock up there including the Kurt'n'Wolfie classic Locker vom Hocker. But in reality I was still knackered from last week's Kaisergebirge epic, and when my mate failed to A0 the crux of the 6b we were trying I was quite content to bail for an early beer at the hut.
S: Wetterstein. Early beer, early night, feeling a bit better. Did a pleasant five pitch V+, Phantasia, that ended with an exposed & exciting traverse on wobbly jugs. Pleasant day out.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Have time and ability to climb Font 7anything this autumn / winter


M: Nowt.
T: Tabata class on lunch. Really focused on going all out on the work section and felt like it was working. Properly boxed afterwards.
W: Depot after work, good session, did all 30 new Blacks (V3-4). Not done that much volume in a long time.
T: Works leaving do after work. Too much beer.
F: Terrible head all day. Caribbean restaurant for jerk chicken and medicinal Red Stripe at lunch.
S: Had a pass for whole day, so of course it bucketed down. Went to Depot and had another great session. Felt strong, did a few more purples.
S: Took Una swimming for first time, she hated it! Got a bit of a water resistance squat workout bobbing about in the kids pool with her clinging onto me like a limpet though.


At the risk of tempting fate, it appears to be coming back after feeling less than useless for about 6/9 months. Just need to consolidate, not get injured etc and pray for weather and passes being kind once the clocks go back.

[shark]

10.13- 11.1

M. Fingerboard. Max assisted one arm and weighted two arm hangs. Not too bad seeing as weighing a bit heavy and out of practice and long journey and, and...
No booze. Restarted low carb diet

T. AM Systems board. Warm up. Did some undercut work then Aerocap. 3 sets of 20/10s = 360 moves. Please with that as normally only do 2 sets.

W. Noon. Campus. Popped into foundry to benchmark/top-up recruitment. Not too shoddy. Nearly did 1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs

T. Curbar with Ben and Tom. Not my first choice, or even twentieth given how hot it was but Ben keen to try Gotrilla Warfare. Went to Bens Wall to warm up. Then the pit. Reworked GW and linked to last move. Then did it  Only the second time Ive done it. First time was in 1997. Had a play on Early Doors too

F.  Eve. Drive to Malham with family to stay in Bunkhouse for a friends 50th. Beers in the Buck Inn

S. Drizzly and warm. Went to catwalk with Tommy. Surpisingly ok nick. Dogged up the Oak – did throw first go and linked top traverse to belay. Go 1 Ground to undercut bty third bolt and feet slipped off (rest) throw to midway across top traverse Go 2 Ground to throw but nowhere near to getting horn. (rest) throw to start of top tracverse Go 3 Ground to undercut by third bolt (rest) dogged in sections to top. Tommy had a few goes too with Moose reciting Larkin to us. Pretty good session which compared favourably to my start on it this time last year. Eve Booze and games

S. Sunny. 6 mile scenic walk taking in Victoria Cave whicvh Id not seen before. Nap. Evening meal at Listers. More booze back at the barn   

Good week. Glad I hadnt put on too much excess weight during holiday. Pleased with the way training and climbing are going. Not going to Malham this week as too hot. Will train. boulder and diet with the Oak in mind and resist the temptation to do any outside roped stuff

[moose]

Tommy had a few goes too with Moose reciting Larkin to us. Pretty good session which

Mis-quoting Larkin would be more like it!  Still you got the gist; glad you appreciated it!

[SA Chris]

No booze. Restarted low carb diet

Beers in the Buck Inn

Eve Booze and game!

More booze back at the barn   

Doesn't sound like a man with much commitment to the cause!

[shark]

No booze. Restarted low carb diet

Beers in the Buck Inn

Eve Booze and game!

More booze back at the barn   

Doesn't sound like a man with much commitment to the cause!

I know. The scales of justice revealed the magnitude of my sins this morning. Its sackcloth and ashes from now on.

[dave]

Too many carbs in sackcloth.

[SA Chris]

Aren't some sacks made of hemp? Give you the munchies too.

[Nibile]

No booze. Restarted low carb diet

Beers in the Buck Inn

Eve Booze and game!

More booze back at the barn   

Doesn't sound like a man with much commitment to the cause!

A little bit like this other man... 

LTG - get strong

M - run, 10k
T - short run
W - 11k bike, followed by 6 k run
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Bike ride 67.5k plus 2 x 2 k
Short walk

[SA Chris]

What -  doing nothing on T,F & S? In my defence I had parents visiting from Friday night to this morning, so needed to get house in order on Thursday and spend some time with them.

Focussing on LTG will come when I have a working thumb again. I tried climbing without using it, but got too annoyed, focussing on other things for now.

[Nibile]

Hey you don't need to give any reason, it was nothing but a joke! Anyway I was referring to all the running and cycling.
Hope your thumb heals soon. You can do lots to get strong even with a dodgy thumb though.

[SA Chris]

Yeah I know about strength, but given limited time I tend to focus on one thing at a time! Looks like I might be doing 65mile Etape Royale soon, and probably a fell run later in the month. Will get back on strength training probably when it gets dark and wet.

At least I'm pretty much off the booze, down to under one unit a week on average!

[Nibile]

 

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 67.89 miles 4 hrs 2 mins.
Tue. Board ver hot so 30 warm up problems then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off X 5  5 sets with 36.5 lbs added. Bike 18 miles 1 hr 3 mins intervals of various lengths 15 efforts.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board tried a project a few times before moving on to other things. Did 3 new things. Currently working through lots of old problems but not using any footholds on kick board.
Bike 36.57 miles 2 hrs 6 mins intervals 5 mins on 1 min off X 6.
Sat. Board did a problem I couldn't do yesterday plus another new one. Lots of goes at a project.
Sun. Bike 15.43 miles 52 mins intervals 15 secs on 15 off X 3 X 5 X 7 X 9 X 11 one minute between each set.
Now I have time to do stuff. Need to get out off the habit of thinking Oh I've got two hours spare quick do some training.

[shark]

Now I have time to do stuff. Need to get out off the habit of thinking Oh I've got two hours spare quick do some training.

And get outside

[webbo]

Now I have time to do stuff. Need to get out off the habit of thinking Oh I've got two hours spare quick do some training.

And get outside

I might save that sort of thing for my old age. Oh hang on a minute.

[tomtom]

Now I have time to do stuff. Need to get out off the habit of thinking Oh I've got two hours spare quick do some training.

And get outside

I might save that sort of thing for my old age. Oh hang on a minute.

Finished cutting the grass yet?

[webbo]

I've never cut the grass at our current house, lived here 20 months and that's why I don't climb outside. I can't find my way out of the garden

[Dolly]

Tu: Fingerboard session on my CRUSHER (tm) mobile fingerboard.. good - weird hanging on a wobbly suspended by cord board though! Tested some new muscles on different (from a BM) holds..

Which of their mobile fingerboards was it Tom ?

It was the mission: http://crusherholds.co.uk/crusher-mission-portable-hangboard-fingerboard

OK thanks

[the_dom]

Monday: Crossfit - heavy kettlebell session
Tuesday: Crossfit - heavy overhead squats session
Wednesday: Heavy (90 min) hangboard session - max hangs, assisted one arms and repeaters.
Thursday: Morning surf (paddle, really, thanks to quite a significant amount of swell) followed by exhausted PM climb.
FRiday: Short, intense hangboard session. Drinking.
Saturday: Hangover
Sunday: Poor day out bouldering in the heat followed by some max hangs.

Not a great week. 8A in 2016 seems out of my grasp given the nascent end of winter 

[Hugh]

Two weeks again:

Mon: 4x4s
Tue: Weighted repeaters
Wed: Techy fingery stuff on the TCA 20deg woody
Thu: Swim
Fri: First session on new woody in the garage. Proper job!
Sat: Drive to Cornwall with family.
Sun: Swimming in the sea. Lots of cake and ice cream.

Mon: Tides weren't ideal but managed to get to Godrevy for an early morning bash with family in tow. Cave was sadly damp (well, everything was damp) but had an ace time pootling around doing easy stuff in the gullies.
Tue: Swim in the sea. Dead calm, clear water - stunning.
Wed: TCA, woody again I think.
Thu: Weighted repeaters.
Fri: Home woody session. Bit knackered from the week but felt worked by the end, particularly core.
Sat: Run 6km.
Sun: Max hangs.

Decent couple of weeks. Work still mental so not really got any time to get out, but hoping to make the most of the new garage board.

[Duma]

STG: Tick some things in Magic Wood
MTG: Heal myself and get solid at 7B
LTG: 8A

M: Empire Crag above Llandudno. Great fun short bouldery jugfests. Flashed 6c, on sighted 7a, 7a+ 1st RP.
T
W
T
F
S: Got to Magic Wood half an hour before dark. Went and tried Enterprise, got it in the dark with a lot of screaming. Sweaty and humid conditions...
S: First full day in the wood. Did the classic highball Blue sky of mine 6A+, then went and did Blindflug 7A. Had to do weird move to reach past the dirt crimps but was happy when it went. O/Sed a 6C as a mate was trying Intermezzo. Fingers too bad to try Dinos... Failed on James Bong before going and getting Hob den Ausch 7A. Very good climbing with a Fontesque top out. Shame the crux was not dabbing the start. Rain stopped play.

Good start to Magic Wood though raining now so might have a couple of enforced rest days. Finger limits what I can do and can hurt a fair bit after a big try. But no lasting damage.

Ian(?), you still in magic? I'm in the black VW t4, come say hi if you're at a loose end. And do Protektor if you get a chance, it's ace!

[Coops_13]

Ian(?), you still in magic? I'm in the black VW t4, come say hi if you're at a loose end. And do Protektor if you get a chance, it's ace!

Duma, I think you've got the wrong Cooper! Just left the wood today, got Protektor yesterday though. Such a sick line. Hope you have a good trip!

[Duma]

Oops, sorry! It's ace isn't it? Cheers, trip is already pretty great, and few more days to go...

[Coops_13]

Yeah, class line