[Stewart]

Going to hit the road this weekend for a climbing trip with mixed group. We were thinking sport climbing and looking for stuff from 5's to low 7's. Some bouldering might be a nice diversion. Someone has suggested N Wales which sounds nice but none of us have been there. Can anyone advise on the best crags to hit, places to camp etc?

Apart from myself having a few days at almscliff none of us have climbed south of greater Scotland (ie Northumberland/Lakes) but i've heard there is some climbing near Sheffield - any suggestions welcome.

[Duncan campbell]

The Slate would potentially be a good bet for your mixed group, certainly due to the no climbing before 6pm during summer holidays restriction on the Marine Drive at The Orme. Plus it dries quickly after rain.

Other sporting options include;

Lower Pen Trwyn - tidal though not time restricted like the Upper Pen Trwyn/Marine Drive. Could combing with bouldering at Parisella's if you are that way inclined.

A55 sport - Penmaen Head, Llandulas Cave. Not the highest of quality though have spent more days than I should of there as a misguided student. Both have a spread of grades though maybe not so much in the 5 range?

Bouldering wise North Wales is your oyster if the weather is nice. Unfortunately you will have to do some serious research to find out whats what especially in the more esoteric areas as the new guide is still being written and the old one is long out of print. There is some ace stuff kicking around though.

May have forgotten something/expressed an opinion that someone will challenge...

[SA Chris]

Are you specifically asking about N Wales, or suggestions in general for places to go? If general;

1) Yorkshire Dales "area"; base yourself somewhere like Skipton  or Settle and you will have good access to a range of sport climbing plus bouldering on the western moors

2) Eastern Peak; base yourself in Hathsage or thereabouts (or maybe a bit further south) good access to bouldering at more places than you can shake a stick at, plus a shit ton of sport.

Both will be a quicker hit for a weekend from Scotland than going all the way to Wales, with Dales being easiest.

I would check weather before setting off though!

[Johnny Brown]

Heard there might be a good scene in Dorset this weekend.

[nai]

2) Eastern Peak; base yourself in Hathsage or thereabouts (or maybe a bit further south)

I noticed this place while driving to Staffs yesterday and thought what a good base it would make if you wanted options other than Eastern Grit, not next to anywhere but not far from anywhere either.  Be pretty good for 5-7 sport with a bouldering option.
10 minutes to Harpur Hill, 15 to Chee Dale, 20 to Smalldale and all the Stoney crags not much further.  Then 20 to the Roaches, etc for the bouldering option plus Dovedale if you wanted some trad or a classic 7c+.

The disclaimer of course being that I've not stayed there, it's an award winning pub, the locations good and it looks decent.

[Stewart]

Thanks all, that is really helpful but after various debates within the group and remembering it's a bank holiday down south we're going to head North instead - Wester Ross or Angus or something. One of these days i'll get to climb south of Leeds!

[SA Chris]

Come to Aberdeenshire!

Actually Angus is a good call too if you don;t mind quarries, and will be a bit less midgy than West Coast.

[Johnny Brown]

2) Eastern Peak; base yourself in Hathsage or thereabouts (or maybe a bit further south)

I noticed this place while driving to Staffs yesterday and thought what a good base it would make if you wanted options other than Eastern Grit, not next to anywhere but not far from anywhere either.  Be pretty good for 5-7 sport with a bouldering option.
10 minutes to Harpur Hill, 15 to Chee Dale, 20 to Smalldale and all the Stoney crags not much further.  Then 20 to the Roaches, etc for the bouldering option plus Dovedale if you wanted some trad or a classic 7c+.

The disclaimer of course being that I've not stayed there, it's an award winning pub, the locations good and it looks decent.

This is my favourite pub to break a drive back from Staffs or Cratcliffe. Excellent food, campsite always looks popular.

[Stewart]

Come to Aberdeenshire!

Actually Angus is a good call too if you don;t mind quarries, and will be a bit less midgy than West Coast.

I'm originally from Angus so not so exciting. Not climbed in aberdeenshire but we're going to hit Wester Ross. Might head east if the weather breaks

[GazM]

Good call going NW. Where are you staying? 

My advice would be to keep an eye on the wind direction and be flexible to avoid midge death. 

Goat Crag at Gruinard is probably the jewel in the crown of sport crags up there.  Hydrotherapy at 6c+ and Mactalla at 7b are two of the best anywhere and there have been a few new routes added since the SMC Sport Guide too. Some of the routes in the Mactalla/Prow area can seep but Hydrotherapy and the routes to it's right stay pretty dry.

Creag nan Cadhag south of Gairloch is a good shout if it's a northerly.

If you're after routes in the 6s to low 7s then you should definately stop at Moy Rock just outside Dingwall on your way out or back.  There's a full days worth of stuff on very quick drying conglomerate. Again, there are a couple of additions since the guide.

Boulder-wise, Torridon is the obvious first stop, but if you're up Ullapool way Reiff or Reiff in the Woods have plenty, and it's worth knowing that the wee boulder wall at Ardmair Crag stays dry when it's showery.

Feel free to PM me if you want more details or recommendations.

[Stewart]

Cheers Gaz,
I'm familiar with the NW - it was going down South i was looking for advice on but after seeing the forecast we decided to go up North again.

Although i didn't see your post till now we did pretty much as you suggested. A glorious day at Creag nan Cadhag on Saturday followed by an attempt at goat crag on sunday before bailing to Moy Rock after the midges became too much.