[galpinos]

Went over to try a bigger tail - got to the rock up for the high finger pocket thing every time, but didnt quite have the same beans/bounce/power that I had pre birth. But otherwise encouraged.

You got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?

[nai]

You got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?

Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off.  He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.

[SA Chris]

Good couple of weeks, kids, youngest especially, did great.  Psyched for more and both want to go back to the mountains.  I make that a Result.  Just need to find some suitable Peak lime for them to climb now.

Did you make it up to Les Contamines in the end? Or too much else to do?

I think we're back to the Alps next summer. Be good with both kids old enough to do more.

[nai]

No we didn't, we visited Les Gaillands, Servoz and La Fayet on our climbing days.  Think we decided Cotamines was a bit far away.   May well be heading back next year too, depending on how much I want to go to Canada for my significant birthday. Or whether to do the political thing so we can go to Australia in 2018, which the kids would rather do.  I guess there's some decent long MP routes to do in the Alps so no need to drag everyone to Squamish just for Grand Wall.

[galpinos]

You got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?

Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off.  He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.

Overlooking the fact it's on 6c if you don't do the jump.......... he pisses it!I always thought the right hand out right method was wack and have always gone straight up with the left after the post jump match but he make sit look a doddle. Hmmmmm......

Tomtom, you were in there! Get it ticked.

[nai]

Yep, he should definitely rename the vid A Bigger FLAIL.

[SA Chris]

I guess there's some decent long MP routes to do in the Alps so no need to drag everyone to Squamish just for Grand Wall.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67774

Was always one I wanted to do, but never did. Bit easier than GW, but a bit longer..

[nai]

I guess there's some decent long MP routes to do in the Alps so no need to drag everyone to Squamish just for Grand Wall.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67774

Was always one I wanted to do, but never did. Bit easier than GW, but a bit longer..

When I see the initials GW I immediately think of gorilla warfare, so yes slightly longer, I bet it's taken some folk less time than GW though.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[shark]

I guess there's some decent long MP routes to do in the Alps so no need to drag everyone to Squamish just for Grand Wall.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67774

Was always one I wanted to do, but never did. Bit easier than GW, but a bit longer..

And a lot looser judging by the logbook comments

[nai]

Does look like a proper Alpine route and more of an undertaking, reckon I'd be out off my depth on that.

[SA Chris]

And a lot looser judging by the logbook comments

50/50

http://gripped.com/news/massive-rockfall-in-squamish-search-underway/

[Coops_13]

Sometimes they clear up quickly... You can hear mine popping at 1:43 on this and it took only a couple of months to be back to normal (though that was fast). Rest it for a week or so then start climbing on jigs open handed.

Thanks monk and tomtom. Just seen a specialist who doesn't think it was a pulley rupture as there wasn't any swelling, unsure of the source of the pop. Got an ultrasound on Saturday. Hopefully it's just me being over-cautious...

[cha1n]

You got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?

Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off.  He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.

Overlooking the fact it's on 6c if you don't do the jump.......... he pisses it!I always thought the right hand out right method was wack and have always gone straight up with the left after the post jump match but he make sit look a doddle. Hmmmmm......

Tomtom, you were in there! Get it ticked.

Even I jump to the starting hold, thought it was the hardest part. 

[tomtom]

You got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?

Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off.  He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.

Overlooking the fact it's on 6c if you don't do the jump.......... he pisses it!I always thought the right hand out right method was wack and have always gone straight up with the left after the post jump match but he make sit look a doddle. Hmmmmm......

Tomtom, you were in there! Get it ticked.

Its 'different' doing it the RH out method... more shouldery, but less pull up-y if that makes sense. You can even straight arm the moves to sharing the two higher crimps (though it feels a bit weird..). The hold you pop for the top from is not especially pleasant- though is positive if you get it in the right way... anyway, today I was even worse at it and only got to sharing the two higher crimps twice... A newborn baby means you are often up early to be able to sneak out to the crag whilst MrsTT is catching up on some ZZZ's... but the 4 hours of sleep beforehand left me in a less than correctly prepared state..

[Sasquatch]

STG (till Oct 15) - Byron Crimpfest #1 (8a/+), Fright of the Bumblebee (highball 7Cish)
MTG (Oct 15 to next spring) - don't gain winter weight, 1 arm pullup, 1-5-8
LTG - Byron Crimpfest #2, To Bolt

Two weeks again
Week 1
M - STr Class
T -   FB attempt - too tired
W - Closing party of old gym that I've been climbing at for 21 years. New one opens Monday.
T - Bike
F - Camping
S - Camping
S - Camping

Week 2
M - Boulder and Climb new Gym, Family DRAMA
T - Family DRAMA
W - Climb New Gym (leading on 45ft indoor walls actually feels almost like sport climbing) - Travel Work   
T - Travel Work - 45min Run
F - Boulder 1 hr new gym
S - Routes new gym long session
S - Routes and Boulder new gym another long session 

For some reason, my body gets quite worked by the big days on the longer wall.  My fingers are ok, but my core, legs, and back are all getting tired. 

[Luke Owens]

M: 20 mins HI-Aerocap

T: HI-Aerocap -
4 x (6 x 5sec on 5sec off) 2mins of jug shake out between sets. (Total 12mins)

5 mins moving hangs to finish.

W: 15mins HI-Aerocap and front lever progressions

T: Diamond - Good to be back, had 3 goes up Boat People (7c), conditions not ideal but managed most of the moves, each go got more greasy. Mega route, psyched for it!

F: Stretching

S: Diamond - Went down for a lock-in, high tide was just a little too high to get back on Boat People so went up Non-Tidal Screamer (7c). Did all the moves but the start felt really bouldery and hard and the top is too run out to be enjoyable (You can't even clip stick between bolts).

Had 2 goes up it, not 100% sure on top crux, awesome line though, one to finish off whenever Boat People isn't in good nick.

S: Rest

[Footwork]

Very cool picture Shark  good effort.

A late entry (from week before this). Can't remember much but two entries to note.

- Quick dash after work to Brimham to finish off Jokers Wall arete after failing previously with Huw. Warmed up by placing the gear at one third height and climbing back down. Had a bash getting to the crux but green and damp thwarted me! Huw tied on and did it no problem. Went up again and this time got my left hand sorted on the undercut before entering the crux sequence. Much easier! Great route and should really get more traffic. Really gymnastic climbing with a great balancy finish. Will have to go back for the original as it started drizzling and getting dark.

- Malham with Olly. So tired from lack of sleep. and 8am start didn't help. Yawning the whole way and just wanted to go back to bed. Tried to put 7th Aardvark to bed but wasn't too excited. Route still has that shit crux. Top roped it to try and figure something out. Inspiration struck and I managed to avoid the tooth completely turning one move into 2 moves and 3 foot swaps. But this way I could do it. Pissed it after I worked that out. 

Perfect timing as that evening I went to France for 2 weeks. Drank too much and ate too much but boy did it all taste good. 

Back in Leeds and need to put the foot on the gas re: shoulder work and just get back climbing. Projects to do, routes to tick and all that!

[tomtom]

You got one move from the top, isn't it just a pop to the jug from there?

Usually, yes. I suspect Tom doesn't want to finish this one off.  He either likes moaning about polish and grades or being without a phone signal for a few hours.

Overlooking the fact it's on 6c if you don't do the jump.......... he pisses it!I always thought the right hand out right method was wack and have always gone straight up with the left after the post jump match but he make sit look a doddle. Hmmmmm......

Tomtom, you were in there! Get it ticked.

Its 'different' doing it the RH out method... more shouldery, but less pull up-y if that makes sense. You can even straight arm the moves to sharing the two higher crimps (though it feels a bit weird..). The hold you pop for the top from is not especially pleasant- though is positive if you get it in the right way... anyway, today I was even worse at it and only got to sharing the two higher crimps twice... A newborn baby means you are often up early to be able to sneak out to the crag whilst MrsTT is catching up on some ZZZ's... but the 4 hours of sleep beforehand left me in a less than correctly prepared state..

Better today... Some sneaky new foot beta gets me set up for the mono pocket edge of fingereatingness a bit better...

[nai]

Just climb faster

[lagerstarfish]

and higher

[tomtom]

Just climb faster

No problem. Fixed that.

[moose]

Just climb faster

Don't listen to him Tom, he's just a slappy weakling, jealous of your manly static strength!

[tomtom]

Just climb faster

Don't listen to him Tom, he's just a slappy weakling, jealous of your manly static strength!

:D Lagers has a very valid point though. I'll form a committee to consider his theory.