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Frankenjura for a long weekend (Read 3678 times)

petejh

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Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 18, 2016, 02:32:52 pm
I'm going to be in Munich for a two-day work thing in mid-October and thought I'd try to get in a long weekend in the frankenjura afterwards. Partner's arriving in Nuremberg mid-afternoon Friday and leaving from Munich airport Sunday 8pm, - can anyone recommend  must-visit crags/routes for two and a bit days? Low 6s/high 5s for her and mid-high 7s for me.

James Malloch

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#1 Re: Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 18, 2016, 03:02:59 pm
Not sure about the lower grades but the Maximillianswand/Waldkopf area has plenty around in the 7s. Lots of crags close together in the forest so you can have projects in different places. Nice setting too.

Few other places that escape my memory - I'll have a look at my log later.

tim palmer

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#2 Re: Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 18, 2016, 03:31:06 pm
http://topoguide.de/topoguide-Magazin/Sektoren_und_Routen_Franken.pdf

I was given this link which served me reasonably well on my two visits. 

I enjoyed Grüne Hölle lots, some easy stuff on the surrounding little crags, some high 6's on the main crag and then vogeln verboten on the main crag which is a cracking 7c+.

I was surprised at how good Weißenstein was when it was raining, always seems very busy in the dry but has a good range of routes 4-7s.

Muenchener

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#3 Re: Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 18, 2016, 07:55:32 pm
The topoguide list that Tim linked to is basically my lifetime to-do list. Very useful.

Grüne Hölle is great fun for wet days in summer but it might be a bit dank in October. Weissenstein is perma-dry, ten seconds approach from the road, and a must if you want to live the cliche and walk in the - polished - footsteps of Kurt'n'Wolfie. Crowded, polished, old-skool bolting ... but still manages to be a worthwhile place to visit with classics at basically every grade from 5b to 7c.

I can't comment from personal experience on other good spots for upper 7's. People seem to rate the Bärenschluchtwände.

5's & low 6's in October? Elfenwelt Sector Patsy is a very pretty spot with some great routes. Faces north but is in a quite open & airy situation so a good chance of being dry on a nice autumn day. If "low 6's" can stretch to stiff 6b there are a couple of really great routes up a super impressive looking pillar on the Leienfelser Burgruine.

Schaumschläger on the Roter Fels in Pegnitztal is *the* local classic at 6a+ but achtung! Thirty seven metres. Lowerable with a 70m rope with care. There are some super impressive looking 7a's on the same crag that are similarly long, again with rather old school bolting. They look absolutely fantastic and I suspect by any reasonable standard they might well come under your "mid to upper 7" rubric. If you're in that area at least look at the Anaktalwand. Untypical for Franken, just off vertical crimpy face climbing. Some fantastic looking classics in the upper 7's range. And while you're there there's good food at the Goldener Lamm in Hartenstein. (There are also good 5's & 6's on the Hartensteiner Wand, but it's north facing, shady & unlikely to be good in October. Might be ok if there's a long dry spell)

A couple of accommodation tips: I usually camp at Gasthof Fischer in Stierberg. Very scenic and relaxed campsite, good food, with a quite nice moderate grade crag (Stierberger Gemsenwand) within walking distance, but the b&b rooms are a bit basic. A slightly posher option if you want to show your partner a good time is the Hotel Drei Linden at Bärnfels near Obertrubach. I can vouch for the food being excellent; I've never stayed there but friends who have enthuse about it. Melissa Le Neve apparently hangs out at the Betzenstube when she's working Action Directe, so that's another good tip for eats.


tim palmer

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#4 Re: Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 19, 2016, 11:52:25 am
Last time I was in Frankenjura I met a local guy who also recommended Roter fels as well but I have to admit I did not enjoy it at all, it is a pretty massive crag so maybe we just hit a bad bit but the rock quality was a bit dubious (plus it is slabby and ?south facing).

I think Stadeltenne was quite nice (shady and quiet) with a decent range of grades.

Paul B

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#5 Re: Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 19, 2016, 01:11:38 pm
Stadeltenne is great.

Top of the Pockets by Andy Harris pretty good as a starting point:
https://web.archive.org/web/20040625205452/http://cragx.com/articles/issue06/pockets/index.htm

I think it's about time for TOTP2.

Muenchener

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#6 Re: Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 19, 2016, 01:15:49 pm
Stadeltenne is great.

Patrick Matros personally  8) recommended Stadeltenne to me as a good place for the 7b/+ aspirant.

tc

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#7 Re: Frankenjura for a long weekend
August 19, 2016, 01:17:49 pm
Gößweinstein also good. "Sautanz" is one of the all-time classics of the area. 7b IIRC (long time ago!). Great route.

 

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