UKBouldering.com

Ebola- anston (Read 1075 times)

saltbeef

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1439
  • Karma: +49/-5
Ebola- anston
July 15, 2016, 09:43:57 pm
Any bets on gettimg right hand to the pinch once you've got the left hand pocket? I'm not tall/spanny enough to reach it with a left heel toe, do sub 6 footers just jump to it? I did that once but it's pretty low percentage

masonwoods101

more Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +20/-0
#1 Re: Ebola- anston
July 16, 2016, 12:43:08 am
Bung on right toe and jump. Never managed the link though. Nails for sub 6footers..

saltbeef

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1439
  • Karma: +49/-5
#2 Re: Ebola- anston
July 16, 2016, 10:32:41 am
Thought tha would be the case. Ta

cofe

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5667
  • Karma: +173/-5
    • John Coefield
#3 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 09:45:50 am
Just wondered how sub-6-foot folk are getting the pocket these days? I have a sequence bumping RF up but it's very hard. Ta.

36chambers

more Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 846
  • Karma: +43/-1
#4 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 10:47:01 am
At 5'7" I can just about reach it off the heel toe, with a right foot smear a little above the much better footholds. Feels pretty committing as I have to lay one to the pocket.

highrepute

more Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 890
  • Karma: +72/-0
  • Blah
#5 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 11:15:40 am
This isn't really any useful info...but

I'm 5'8 but with 5'6 arm span and basically gave up on this move - "did it" pulling on with the pocket and starting sidepull and left it at that....for now...


(i stacked pads to reach the pocket)

I noticed this https://www.instagram.com/p/BUCzutSg2Y7 but it made the move to the pinch really hard because I have to cut loose - and coming with right hand on the undercut made the distance a lot further.

I'm not great at committing slaps - so 36chambers beta would probably work for a climber of my dimensions but better at climbing!

Let us know if you make any progress.

abarro81

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2506
  • Karma: +201/-22
#6 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 11:24:55 am
Does nobody start these things from the start anymore (that's aimed at Orrin not you James, given the quotation marks)? Same goes for Resonate - all I see now is videos of people starting from a stand...

cofe

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5667
  • Karma: +173/-5
    • John Coefield
#7 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 11:29:17 am
At 5'7" I can just about reach it off the heel toe, with a right foot smear a little above the much better footholds. Feels pretty committing as I have to lay one to the pocket.

Ta. I'm doing something similar. Put the foot jam in with low RF, then bump it in and up, higher than I'd like. Wouldn't like to be much shorter than me (5' 10")! Means I'm in extremis when I hit the pocket, rather than all casual.

cofe

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5667
  • Karma: +173/-5
    • John Coefield
#8 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 11:31:42 am

I noticed this https://www.instagram.com/p/BUCzutSg2Y7 but it made the move to the pinch really hard because I have to cut loose - and coming with right hand on the undercut made the distance a lot further.

He'll get that next go once he tags on the start.

Cheers for that. It might be worth trying to get into that position from sitting, but the pisser is those undercuts are often wet. Could start with a bar towel I guess. I imagine it's hard swinging out right to the pinch from there.

highrepute

more Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 890
  • Karma: +72/-0
  • Blah
#9 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 12:21:48 pm
Does nobody start these things from the start anymore (that's aimed at Orrin not you James, given the quotation marks)? Same goes for Resonate - all I see now is videos of people starting from a stand...

to be fair the guide says nothing about Ebola being a sit start. Just start "from good sidepull for the right hand".

In fact the whole description is confusing. It mentions a "big reach" which, with your height, I doubt you did :tease:. Further more, it's describes the pocket as "two finger" - it's definitely three :icon_321:? and doesn't mention the pinch at all  :shrug:. It's not a wonder these things are confused :-\.

Luckily it's great climbing.

cofe

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5667
  • Karma: +173/-5
    • John Coefield
#10 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 12:28:23 pm
Think it says all problems on that bit have a sit start somewhere on the guidebook page (but not in the problem description). It's quite a reach to the sidepull from the deck and makes setting up for the move a bit faffy. I suppose if it was easier it wouldn't be as hard.

nai

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3231
  • Karma: +143/-0
  • In my dreams
#11 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 12:38:34 pm
Think it says all problems on that bit have a sit start somewhere on the guidebook page

it does, which is great if you have the guidebook....

tomtom

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15741
  • Karma: +474/-8
#12 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 01:13:46 pm
All the vids of Alpha seem to feature a standing/crouching start too...

36chambers

more Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 846
  • Karma: +43/-1
#13 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 01:26:29 pm
Does nobody start these things from the start anymore (that's aimed at Orrin not you James, given the quotation marks)? Same goes for Resonate - all I see now is videos of people starting from a stand...

I use the same starting holds as your vimeo viddy, but since it requires stacking pads to reach them from sit I'm effectively crouching anyway

I'm not great at committing slaps - so 36chambers beta would probably work for a climber of my dimensions but better at climbing!

I get the GF to give me a very close spot because I'm quite concerned I'll leave my LF behind if I fall off. My beta for the rest of the problem is the same as yours, with sticking the cut loose after hitting the RH pinch thing being the crux for me. (Anstons definitely doesn't favour shorties)

Stu Littlefair

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1403
  • Karma: +211/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#14 Re: Ebola- anston
June 14, 2018, 10:44:09 pm
I used the same beta as 36chambers and it felt spanned, but alright.

This was a few years ago now, has the heel-toe broken or something?