[zmv]

Hey guys,

Any tips for the crux move on Sticky Fingers 7b+?

So far, I have tried two different ways over a couple of sessions.

Off the ledge, left hand - slopey bad crimp, bump feet up high on the ledge, right hand goes up from a small undercut to the "good" hold but I never seem to be able to hold it.

This last weekend I tried it using a righthand gaston as well for the jump into the decent hold and could again touch it but not actually stick it.

I've done every other move but that one and I really like this route! Chances are I probably need to just spend more time sussing it out but just checking if I happen to be missing some game changing beta, as it feels quite hard for the grade!

Thanks!

P.S. Thought I'd post it here, as it's basically a boulder on a rope!

[Doylo]

I go from the small undercut to the good hold. That’s the standard beta. Strange you find that the crux as the bit above is harder. Height thing?

[zmv]

Hm, I'm 5 foot 6 so maybe! But I'm sure plenty of fellow shorties fly up it.

Do you remember using the horrible slopey lefthand crimp at all? Or do you layback off that sidepully crimpy thing as well?

I think I need to go up there and spent some more time on it. Felt nails on first aquintance, but I've got solid beta for the bit above. Decent feet, decent crimps, happy days.

Thanks!

[Doylo]

No just layback off the crimpy sidepull. Is a bit of a reach and the holds small.

[zmv]

Thanks dude, I'll try that next weekend :p