I did the one on our old house in the time it took to boil a kettle, but that was a normal Yale one with a key on both sides. From memory it was 3 screws, absolute piece of cake. Only thing I'd bear in mind is to make sure you get a non-snap / more pricey one.
Remove the neeple with 10mm Alan key and you will havethe standard hole of Female 1/2inch. This will fit any shower arm.
Leave your shower head in a container full of white vinegar over night.
It looks to me like that nipple is just treaded into some 22mm plastic water pipe?? (bit dodgy in itself). And if so, I'd be loath to unscrew it, as instead of a nice brass female thread to connect something new to, you'll have a bit of bodged 22mm thread that will be difficult to get anything to fit to it again.
Our local plumbers/builders merchant said they didn’t have anything to fit the wall-mounted outlet and suggested we contact Grohe to see if we can get a replacement.Grohe got back saying we can buy a new head (£160 from amazon) but they also said: Quote Remove the neeple with 10mm Alan key and you will havethe standard hole of Female 1/2inch. This will fit any shower arm.From the photo it looks like the darker bit of the fitting (with the rubber washer on) has an Allen key fitting within the outlet so I assume we can take just this bit off. If we do that, would that likely mean there’s a female 1/2” thread which can then be changed to fit a different shower arm? And are these fairly universal?
Quote from: James Malloch on January 25, 2023, 10:48:35 amOur local plumbers/builders merchant said they didn’t have anything to fit the wall-mounted outlet and suggested we contact Grohe to see if we can get a replacement.Grohe got back saying we can buy a new head (£160 from amazon) but they also said: Quote Remove the neeple with 10mm Alan key and you will havethe standard hole of Female 1/2inch. This will fit any shower arm.From the photo it looks like the darker bit of the fitting (with the rubber washer on) has an Allen key fitting within the outlet so I assume we can take just this bit off. If we do that, would that likely mean there’s a female 1/2” thread which can then be changed to fit a different shower arm? And are these fairly universal?Sounds like you’re sorted with the vinegar suggestion, and I’d trust your instinct not to take any of the plumbing apart unless you need to.In case you need to change things around in future, it’s possible/likely that the thing the “neeple” is screwed into is just a male-to-female coupler (something like this: https://plumbing4home.com/1-2-half-inch-tap-pipe-thread-extension-female-x-male-chrome-brass/ ) to extend the original fitting which is buried behind the tiles just a bit too deep for the shower head to attach to. If you decide to mess with it for any reason, be aware that the thread will be straight, not tapered, so will leak if you just screw something into it with a bit of PTFE tape. You need pipe sealing cord (looks like dental floss).In case you need any bits, I’ve found national shower spares to be really good (had an issue with plumbing for a Grohe shower a while back and nobody had the right parts locally).
Had a shower this morning
Basically just over 3x faster at filling a jug. Don’t have to stand right up against the wall now
If its genuinely a stud wall, it's a piece of piss. Day to remove and couple to put up new wall, doors etc.We got a builder to rip out a stud wall, build a kitchen including bar (after ripping out old bathroom) and built a bathroom where the old kitchen was. All in it was 8 weeks but he was a one man band.
Since the other walls are dry, it’s a good bet that there’s a damp proof membrane in or outside the walls. I’d guess that water is getting over the top of that at ground level (causing the leaks at the top), and the water that doesn’t leak through at the top is running down the inside of the membrane and accumulating at the bottom, then leaking through the wall there. It’s possible that there’s a hole in the membrane at the bottom, which is letting groundwater in, but I’d have thought that the easiest way to find out would be to fix the issue at the top and see if the leak at the bottom dries out (the drying out could take quite a long time).We had a similar issue in our garage (built on a slope so one wall is below outside ground level but above inside floor level). I made a channel on the ground outside to stop rain water accumulating against the wall and send it down an existing surface water drain, which was quick, easy and fixed leaks coming through the wall at outside ground level and at inside floor level. This was good, not least because I didn’t need to find out how to fix a leak in a damp course that I assumed was present somewhere in/around a partially buried wall, which I was dreading.Never ripped up a resin floor, but I’d expect it to be difficult. I’d also be a bit circumspect in case it was covering something someone else didn’t want to deal with (e.g. old tiles containing asbestos). Depending on what you want to replace it with, you might be better off just putting new flooring on top.