[Muenchener]

STG (July/August): get a couple of decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

UKB Kaisergebirge Expedition rained off again. Adjourned to Frankenjura

M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. A session that started off feeling weak, but ended with my second indoor 6C+. Blue seems to be my lucky colour on plastic.
W: Bike one hour. Shoulder & upper back mobility.
T:
F: Drive to Frankenjura. Left early with hopes of sneaking a quick evening route in, but bad traffic getting out of town, and a navigation cockup trying to avoid said traffic, put paid to that idea.
S: Frankenjura. Raining. Went to the Grüne Hölle, which is steep enough not to be rained on, and played on Isolation*. Classic 'jura 6c+, very steep pocket pulling and well outside my mental comfort zone at first, but great fun after I'd got over the initial terror. Best effort ended with a slide off of soaking wet finishing holds after it started really raining.
S: Frankenjura. Not raining. Ticked supposedly the best easyish route in the entire 'jura in the morning (Schaumschläger, 6a+) and it was indeed really, really good. Then got my ass kicked on another classic 6c+. Seems I am still some way off having realistic onsight chances on these, especially when they are quite long with the crux right at the top.
All in all an excellent weekend.

* To the two people** who rated this "7b" on 8a.nu: get a grip.
** Although one of them is Mayan Smith-Gobat. Maybe it's *much* harder for the short.

[fried]

Nothing. I'm only checking in for my benefit.

Ankle sore as expected, tried to keep walking about on it in short bursts. Aircast arrived on Thursday. '50 euros for that!' the missus sn**gered at me. I tried it on Friday to go to work, really uncomfortable for the first 5 minutes, then felt super.

Hopefully an indoor session at the end of  week, but I'll see. Should be doing some BM sessions, but I'm so unmotivated not touching rock. Can't even watch Vimeo vids, too depressing.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Get well soon Toby.


M. Core and mobility sesh
T.
W. Tor. Partner couldn't make it so bouldered. Worked out the moves on Weedkiller Traverse then did it.
T. Kettlebell workout
F.
S. Tot. Mecca sesh 6. Refined the traverse. Then managed to make the drop knee work to get the razor backhand, minor progress! Need to refine drop knee as having to go off bottom foothold makes throw to ear too stretched. Did groove to chains without much difficulty on 2nd go up, but then powered out on it on my third go up.
S. Dulas Cave. Couple of warm-ups then got ass handed to me by a doylo 7b (Tony Stud). Pockets were wet though. Then worked out 'Yankee Doodle Pigeon' with beta from the man himself. Cool bouldery route - 7B on a rope. Felt like would have had a good chance of doing it in a sesh if fresh but too powered down from previous climbing. Skin trashed.

I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud

It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).

[nik at work]

STG - be less sore
MTG - do routes
LTG - do more routes

M - Accident at work. A big (400kg) stainless steel grille fell over. on it's way it hit me in the face, knocked me over then landed on my back. The initial extent of the injury seemed to be a deep and very much bleeding cut on my nose...
T - However the rest of my body started complaining today, felt like I'd been hit by a train. Went to the training traverse wall after work and had a reasonable session all things considered.
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - Afternoon out, trad. Did a pumpy E4. Really struggled TBH, think (hope) it's after-effects of mondays adventures...

Still sore, face is healing up ok but back and neck are giving me a bit of grief. But nothing compared to Toby, get well soon beast.

[Nibile]

Nik and Toby, heal soon!

[Luke Owens]

I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud

It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).

It would be 3 stars at the Tor...

[tommytwotone]

Short update for me - having pulled my finger out the previous week and got a few HIIT classes in and even 2 session at the wall I picked up the predicable cold / man-flu lurgy that's been doing the rounds in our office.


Not sure if it's aging, being out of condition or something else but throughout this year, I get 1, 2 weeks into some kind of regular exercise (i.e. 4ish days out of 7) and then I'm ill for a week or two. Getting a bit tedious now.

[SA Chris]

M - bike 40k
T - nothing
W - bike 43k. Got absolutely soaked.
T - bit of core and weights
F - bike 50k. Some showers.
S - Took kids out on bikes, and party in afternoon.
S - recovered from minor hangover, Mowed lawn

Finally got an appt for specialist to look at my thumb. Bumped it on Friday night and it was agony, and swelled up badly again. Something very wrong, can still only bend last joint to about 40 deg, and injured it at the end of April. Still, enjoying road biking weirdly. Odd to do something that feels fairly benign. And Strava is addictive.

[mr chaz]

LTG 8A 8b, Crush in Swizzy.
STG Lou Ferrino

M.
T. One arm hangs.
W. Indoor bouldering, good session repeating lots of V6-8
T.
F. One arm hangs, feeling really strong again on these. No assistance on all hangs and holding well for at least 5 seconds in every position. Front levers, pushups and theraband too.
S.
S. Parisella's to try Lou Ferrino again. Getting shut down by the move into the first slot, heel popping off every time I take the toe hook out. Exactly the same as previous 2 sessions  Annoyingly got past this previously but seem to be going backwards.
Also looked at Baby Buddha - wet, and tried to find corridors of power - where the fuck is it?!

Toby that's shit, heal well.

[T_B]

S. Parisella's to try Lou Ferrino again. Getting shut down by the move into the first slot, heel popping off every time I take the toe hook out. Exactly the same as previous 2 sessions  Annoyingly got past this previously but seem to be going backwards.
[/quote]

Which crimps are you on? If you use the left hand one with your right and use something further left, you have more 'room' to reach up to the slot. Works for me being taller (not done the problem yet), beta from Pete Robins.

[mr chaz]

Yeah I've been using left hand on the good crimp, right hand on the terrible draggy thing. I'll try that next time.

[Luke Owens]

and tried to find corridors of power - where the fuck is it?!

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir//53.0938626,-4.0679676/@53.0941139,-4.069137,191m/data=!3m1!1e3

[Doylo]

I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud

It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).

It would be 3 stars at the Tor...

The bitter words of a 8b climber who's just failed on a 7b 

[conners]

Not so much training but a good week climbing..
 
Monday – High Tor

Party in the Park E5 6a, 6a, 6a
Pitches 2&3
Apres beers

Tuesday – Stoney

E5 right of Pickpocket
Pickpocket  OS. Felt hard, tired !!
Apres beers

Weds – Rest day

6k run
Felt totally wasted all day
Thursday – PE session on my board. What a difference a day makes..
Big sesh
4 x 7c circuit
4x 7b circuit
4x 7a circuit
10 x boulder problems
3 x 15 pull ups
2 x 20 press ups.

Friday – High Tor

Sore
2 x E2
2 x E3
1 x E4
Lots of ale in the evening

Saturday – Hungover

Sunday – Hungover

6k run

A good week climbing wise but far to much ale !! Glad when Mr C goes back home !

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board trying some old problems with screw on footholds did 2 and failed on 2 got in to working things again.
Wed. Nothing
Thu. Board lots of goes on problems from Tuesday. Did one ,close on the other.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board did problem I'd been working 2nd go,did a harder finish to one of the others. Tried a few other things. 4 sets of repeaters with 25.5lbs added to finish.
Sun. Cleaning out gutters first thing, got a right pump on hanging trying to poke out grass of the gulleys with a clip stick. Bike 40 miles 2 hrs 17 mins did 3 sets of intervals.

[shark]

10.12 - 11.0

MTG eatswood Reverse 7C, Rattle & Hump 7B, Jericho Road 7B and Anger Management 8a+ at Raven Tor, Onsight Reproduction E6 High Tor. Get arse down to Pembroke. Try some new lines

M.

T. Systems board. Noon. 2 sets of An Cap this time. Did well despite boots crapping out PB 179 moves. Early eve did 2 sets of 20/10s doing the 10s on pinches 240 moves

W. 

T. AM High Tor Bonjoy (our first time climbing together) He did some abseiling on Left Wing and I scoped out the ground on the second pitch of the new counter diagonal. Looked good. Decided to give it a shot. Started up Lyme Cryme and attempted Bromptons bulge but bottled it. Did the hard move over the bulge - then reversed it !! So much stronger than 3 years ago and so much crapper. Escaped up Lyme Cryme. Got John to lower me off at the top to try out the moves. Did them twice but think I did the right thing backing off as I wasnt mentally ready for itl. John had a go at Roadrunner. I had a dog up on his gear. Did all the moves and realised I'd gone the wrong way after the thread when I've failed on it before. John managed to redpoint it. Long day. Left at 7pm. Made a date to go back next Tuesday

F. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now.   

S. Day trip to North Wales for Rob Barker's 50th. Dragged family through a bog to Gribbin Facet in Ogwen to rendezvous with the rest of the crew but they werent there. Blowy with squalls threatening. Magic spot. Set to work on Raging Bull 7A a crimpy traverse. Poppy and Tommy playing up. Got to jug at end of traverse but too powered out to do the final 5a pull up into the scoop. Sonia got blown over holding a bouldering mat and fell down between two boulders and knocked her head. Time to go. Met the others at Rhoscolyn. Good get together. Nice sunset. Skimmed stones on the beach. Drove back to Sheffield.

S. Gardening

Bummed about getting knocked back at High Tor. All part of the trad re-initiation. Got the new route bug again .     

[nik at work]

Nik and Toby, heal soon!

Cheers Nibs, (very) luckily I seem to have got away with cuts and bruises. So all your positive thoughts can be directed at Toby, heal quick.

[nik at work]

F. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now.   

To do what? Deadhang? One armer?

[shark]

F. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now.   

To do what? Deadhang? One armer?

10 sec dead hangs straight armed and then with a 90 degree lock

[nik at work]

Cheers Shark. I don't have any meaningful comment to add I'm afraid, i was just curious.

[shark]

Cheers Shark. I don't have any meaningful comment to add I'm afraid, i was just curious.

I know what you're thinking....soo weak

[a dense loner]

Hmmm let me think

[nai]

On the BM2000? If so, care to identify the large slot here:

Nein!

[nai]

The Lattice guys gave me that straight then 90 degree hang at the start of my program on slot 9, using assistance to keep the body square and target the correct shoulder muscles.  It might come as a surprise when you try to hang square having always done it in line.

I'm guessing that's what Simon's doing.

[shark]

Not a BM. It is the depth of #4 but can accommodate 4 fingers though I'm doubtful I can hang #9 unassisted for 10 secs