[tomtom]

Afternoon all....

M:
T:
We: Helsby with Jim. Good work out - and great to be back on the Sandstone again.. felt like I was climbing well and did some slightly eliminate SS thing up on the edge that turned out to be 7A
Th:
Fr: Rubicon. Groggy from little sleep - beating myself up on small limestone holds, trying to do problems I'm probably never going to be able to do seemed appropriate for my mood. I didn't manage A Bigger Tail - but came reasonably close to pre back wound levels..
Sa:
Su: Blackstone edge. Really nice session - therapeutic walk out. Did some mid 6's that were quite challenging and fun, then worked and managed the 7A stand to Mike Adams arete up near the trig point.. the 7B semi sit start felt all wrong (upon video inspection I was starting incorrectly). Went and worked Nicks traverse on the Hueco blocs - felt really nice - did all the moves but too boxed to link. One to come back for.

A week back on the rock! Superb - and back doing some new 7's... 

[fried]

Sounds like fun

My sprained ankle turned out worse than I'd hoped when I could barely walk on Monday morning. All week off work losing money. Did a couple of BM sessions, but very sweaty connies.

Had my first walk to the shop without strapping this afternoon, twanged it again on some dodgy paving, hope I didn't set it back too much. Hope for a first session by next weekend.

[ashtond6]

Two weeks behind, been on holiday in Portugal

Injury seems to be progressing well, helped by the majority of
climbing being jug hauls in Portugal

M - rest
T - rest
W - rest
T - short session at the works focusing on open handed easy bouldering
F - went to caley, it was wet
S - rest
S - rest

M - dws at a fantastic crag called Ingrina. Superbly intimidating when you see it from the hillside but so fun. Did an amazingly steep 6b and greased off a 6c
T - rest
W - partner bailed so I soloed some 4s
T - back to Ingrina, did a new direct finish to Mondays route (6b+/c). Got pretty scared as all the hard climbing was at the top. Also did a very steep 6c above a big scary swell.
F - rest
S - rest
S - was supposed to head to stoney but my partner bailed. Did a few traverses on the Cemetery Park boulder before having to leave abruptly due to obvious drug deals taking place

Dromedario 6b


Direct Finish 6c (with a bit of panic at the top, searching for holds!)

[csl]

STG - the next 6 weeks

Rehab finger
Get on an 8a

MTG - next 3 months

Tick a few off this list

Dominatrix, New Dawn, Biological Need, Tennessee, Paradise Lost, Realm of Chaos, Colours, Stay Golden, Frazzled

LTG - end of year

8a

Wednesday

Boulders + Rings

Fun session, taking it easy on the finger. But learnt muscle-ups + others on the rings. Some exercises terrible and some ok, imbalances very clear.

Friday

Boulders + Circuits

Boulders up to V7. Nothing fingery, but feeling ok in general.

Onsighted all up to hardest circuit - which i did ok on also. But a bit fingery.

Chilled week getting back to work etc, life getting in the way of climbing goals. Finger not as bad as i thought it might be, but still requires careful management. Hopefully manage to get out next weekend, but who knows! Training wise, need to do some benchmarking then get back to it.

[the_dom]

Good week TT!

My week was improved drastically by spending the weekend in Rocklands.

Mon: Indoor bouldering and max hangs. Not a terrible session.
Tues: AM Crossfit (hard!) and PM hike.
Wed: Indoor bouldering and max hangs.
Thurs: PM Hike.
Fri: AM Crossfit (very hard). PM drive to Rocklands. Sleep badly.
Saturday: Meet up with friend who is overpsyched to try Teagarden Roof (7C). It's warm, and the crimps feel very skin-grindy. Make good progress anyway, but leave without the send. Head to Kleinfonteine afterwards to try Shadows of Ourselves (7C/+). Get close in a short session before the lure of food and wine becomes too strong. Sleep terribly.
Sunday: Early start, head up to Stalker On The Horizon (7C) alone. Piece the moves together but don't have enough pads to feel comfortable to try to link it. Luckily a multinational and friendly posse arrive to try it and it gets 4.5 ascents in the space of 30 mins, including mine (the 0.5 ascent belongs to a Hungarian woman who appeared entirely unconcerned at her rather gigantic dab). I was pretty happy with that and my skin was calling it quits at that point, so back to Cape Town.

[Muenchener]

STG (July/August): get a couple of decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Hot, sticky, thundery weather. On antibiotics for infected (not Lyme's yyfy) tick bite. Generally feeling a bit tired & battered. Contemplating a medium term future filled with visits to the local immigration authorities regarding work & residence permits. And big alpine plans next week, weather permitting. So took it easy for a few days.

M:
T: Bike one hour
W: ditto
T: ditto
F:
S: Family & friends camping trip in the Alps cancelled due to thunderstorms. Went for a day trip to Regensburg instead, where we did some culture - Germany's finest gothic cathedral*, built over the ruins of Roman fortifications etc etc - and also stopped by the local branch of Boulderwelt. Here we got our arses kicked by heat, humidity and unfamiliar routesetting. Like Shauna in Mumbai. Sort of.
S: An hour mobility, core, shoulders. Including kettlebell TGUs - first time I've put my dodgy shoulder through these for a while. Seemed to go ok.

* sez wikipedia. It's not a patch on some of the truly glorious English & French ones.

[shurt]

Been a while... Attempting to get back on the horse - training or otherwise ahead of getting out next weekend or the one after bouldering with some mates.

Sunday: 2 sets on the fingerboard massively trimmed down to what I was doing a month or so ago. Am way off the pace but I think it always feels like this. I remember going to the wall after a bit of a lay off and it felt like draggin a sack of spuds up the wall. Next visit was a lot better.

Hoping for a decent run of fingerboarding and anything else this coming week.

[Nibile]

Due to work I have to reassess all goals.
STG - Summer - keep training with weights, system PM at various intensities, singles on board projects.

MTG - go try the route.

Mon - PE low intensity. 1'x5, 1' rests. Very very tired. Some rest is due. Dumbbell complex x2; overhead, shoulder, waiter carry. Very tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - inverted pyramids challenge, cleans and pull ups, 1-10 reps, 30" rests. Fucking brutal. One of the best thing for the time challenged. Seven minutes of hell.
Thu - sauna gym again. Embarassing setting. Embarassing climbing. 35 degrees. No fans.
Fri - rest.
Sat - 29 degrees. Emom sets. Muscle snatches 5x10; cleans 3x10; pull ups 3x10 (30" intervals). I am the best.
Sun - rest.

[shark]

10.13- 11.0

MTG eatswood Reverse 7C, Rattle & Hump 7B, Jericho Road 7B and Anger Management 8a+ at Raven Tor, Onsight Reproduction E6 High Tor. Get arse down to Pembroke. Try some new lines

M. Systems board. Late am did more on crimps and undercuts and gastons - felt good. Managed new ancap PB stepping it from 20 moves per go to 25. One set of 4 goes with 2 mins rest per go. Early eve did 1 set of 20.10s doing the 10s on pinches

T.  AM Tor Nice conditions warm almost fresh - only Conners there when arrived. Crag getting a lot drier. Dogged up Obscene Toilet to crux. Failed to get through the crux and came down. One redpoint attempt but not fresh enough. Stripped it. Started trying Little Extra (Raven Tor 7A). Had an occasional dabble in past but don't think I've ever held the crimp. Made progress dynoing then Graham of Chesterfield had a go with a higher right foot. This worked for me as well and made it less dynamic. Nick joined in. Consistent getting the crimp but failed to get any purchase on tghe intermediates. Nick and Graham went. Had a natter with Tom and Ollie who has showed up. Had another play on it and found it was better to go straight for the jug and had two goes were I was 4inches short of it. Dogged Tom on drive back.       

W.

T. High Tor with Conners. Really muggy and sweaty. Bit confused on what to do. Did Darius in a single pitch. Did it OK but not dfast. Felt a bit gruelling and scary and my feet killed. Conners then decided to go for it and jumped on Supersonic. He got thru the low crux and was just about to join Flakey Wall when a jug came off. I wasnt in the best place and got dragged upwards and sideways and rope was hard to hold as the gear was just through one of the twin ropes whilst at same time looking to avoid falling rock. Needless to say he went further than he should. I was rattled more than him. He then put in a great effort by pulling the ropes and leading to the top.Following it I found Whites weren't great in pockets and resolved to sort a diffrent pair if I was going to try Reproduction atr some stage.
     
F. Froggatt late am. Warm slightly offset by breeze. Tried Hot Toddy 7A again. Struggled to pull on crimp enough. Didn't do as well as first session. Must have been weighed down by Brexit concerns. Shower came and skin wearing out. Contemplated going to Tor but went home

S. AM. Finger now recovered so did a lengthy fingerboard session with emphasis on assisted one arm work. Went to Lagers BBQ. Met Jasper for first time  then went on with family Birmingham to see London Philharmonic perform the Planets suite. 

S. PM eatswood Nice temps fresh with a breeze. Took gardening gloves and secateurs and tidied up overhanging block on the approach path and did two thuggy new 6Bish traverses. Felt tired at end. Went on the Reverse. Felt strong on the moves. First go had the kneepad on poorly. Second go got to near the end and fell off. Wasn't even particularly tired. Next go did feel tired and it started raining so sacked it off.

Brexit excepted, a good week. Sonia has got a job offer which she is psyched about. I sense a protest about the amount of climbing I'm doing is imminent though     

Super low carb diet still working well for me despite alcohol. Going to cut down on that this week.

Fail

[TobyD]

M - short road run
T- boardproblems, 3x 35 move circuit, 10x min on foot on campussing ,min rests
W Gordale for the first time in about 5 years (i think) 2 or 3 working goes on a very wet defon 3
T foundry; board- a few short problems, 12move x 5, 2-3 min rest; core
F short road run
S Gordale: did a still rather soggy defon3 second redpoint after slipping out of a dripping undercut on first rp
S Tor: enjoyable session with Pete,felt wrecked from Saturday early in the morning but had 3 worthwhile redpoints on ring of fire, probably need to try it after a rest at some point, but it functions nicely as fingery PE training second day on anyway

[monkoffunk]

STG: climb as many 7A/+ and 7b-7c as possible. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain
3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13).
4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Work
T - Bouldering Portland. No really game plan. Tried 7B called Stompin' with Bez on a bit of a whim. Thought was pretty cool. Sacked it in the hope of more joy elsewhere in the end but found none. Ended up going back for a few more goes. It's good but I'm not good enough. Was pleased to hear that Chris Edwards found it harder than Guy Fawkes but he seems to say that about everything!
W - Red Spider. Bouldered for hour to warm up and did problem I have been failing on for several sessions. Ancap after. Worked hard and felt like I'd been training. Better session than yesterday. Too well rested I imagine!
T - Rest
F - Anderson beastmaker session. Good. Nights.
S - Nights. A few hanging leg raises.
S - Nights. About 30 more leg raises.

Training much better than climbing! Going to try and structure things better next week so more recruited on climbing days.

Good overall week climbing. Like Shark somewhat over shadowed by Brexit and girlfriend losing job as a result.

[lagerstarfish]

Had my first walk to the shop without strapping this afternoon, twanged it again on some dodgy paving, hope I didn't set it back too much. Hope for a first session by next weekend.

I had considerable success using an Aircast A60 ankle brace to get me back into bouldering (jumping off)

provides good support for landing and you can still get a comfy rock shoe over it

sizes are for people with chunky ankles - so although my shoe size indicated that I should by a large, the medium worked well - plenty of room for adjustment though

I notice that they now cost a lot less than they used to

[Coops_13]

STG: Get fit/strong again! And heal new finger/hand injury 
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport and find/do a project
LTG: 8A & 8a

M - 1.1km run to wall, indoors session. Felt weak but good to be back
T - Rugby kick about in the park for an hour or so
W -
T - Indoors, first session on campus rungs, felt alright. Did 1-4-6, 1-3-6, 1-5-6.
F -
S - Anston Stones, looking at potential 7C projects, out of my league. Did a couple of 6s then had a look at Colt 7A+. Almost got it but kept dropping the same move so moved on. Got on Last Stand 7A, did in two parts then felt something twang in my right hand as pulling through a two finger sidepull-pocket on the link. NNFN! Pain in middle and ring finger as well as pain in wrist where those tendons run. Any advice for this?
S - Tried to warm up at Stoney having slept at the Tor, hand too sore. Met mates and spotted at Rubicon before we headed to Mark's Roof at Gardom's. Did Mark's Roof all the way to the slopers, couldn't get much grip on them in the grease, will definitely go when cooler.

Strange new hand/finger injury. Able to do Mark's roof without pain but any crimping or pockets very sore in fingers and base of palm. Stuff like using a knife to cut up food particularly sore. Anyone had this before, I'm hoping it's just a tendon strain in the hand?!?

Gonna rest this week and see if things improve...

[conners]

A bit of a non starter this week in terms of training / progress on routes through lack of psyche (wet rock & split tip). Although pleased to tick a bit of a classic at High Tor. 

Monday – Light bouldering on my board.

6k trail run
30 mins stretching / warm up
10 x easy..ish problems.
3 x 20 pull ups

Tuesday – Ravens Torr

Warm up
Simon kindly super glued tape on my split finger tip.
Bolt to bolt Call of Nature
Did full crux sequence first go, felt good.
1st red point fell off mid crux. Forgot to shift my left toe higher.
2nd red point fell off slightly lower.
Thought I’d work the move one more time and finger opened up..
Jarred off but bouldered a bit, which was enjoyable.
Drank a bottle of wine

Weds – Felt shite,

Light bouldering on my board, mostly lay on the crash mat staring vacantly at possible problems.

Thursday – High Tor

Followed Simon up Darius
Led Supersonic but blew the onsight by pulling a hold off on easy ground low down.
Pulled ropes and did it. V good route

Friday – Rest

6k run

Saturday – Stoney with Mr C

Warmed up on an E2 and E3
Did an E5 off windy ledge. Again blew the onsight by pulling a hold off…..
To be fair the whole lower half of the route was falling to pieces
Went to the Moon for a couple of ales

Sunday – Was going to go to High Tor but looked wet outside. Had a lack lusted session on my board

Decided i need stronger fingers
attempted some foot on campusing on crimps. Definitely need stronger finger... ouch. Might have to start finger boarding

2 weeks before the kids break up, was hoping to have my goal in the bag but it isn't going to be.

[nai]

Goals:
June/July - See ramble below
Autumn - Raindogs, (Powerplant, Body Machine/Proud Whore)

M - LI AeroCap

T - Laughing at the Rain, still couldn't do the start - giving up on this one.  Attempted 7a on left, turned out to be wet and dirty, struggled to half-way before slithering off.

w rest

Th - Chee Dale OSing day
Max Works -  Wasn't warmed up properly, just scraped up it (didn't notice the Wagtail nest or no way I'd have gone on it)
Darl - fell off bottom boulder x 2 then did it so kind of Ground Up.
Open Gate - pretty smooth, brief moment on headwall rockover.
Case Adjourned - Greased off the off start a few times then spent the headwall wondering where all the positive holds the guide mentioned are. Came off just blow the last, didn't bother trying a RP, it was so warm and humid by then that it wasn't much fun and I suspect the outcome would have been the same.

F - Core in evening

S - weighted pullups - terrible.

S - Took nipper to Burbage with a rope for the first time. Soloed a couple of mods and a diff to put a rope up for her. Project Raindogs before she's nine is a long way off, to be fair she doesn't realise she's taking part yet.

Bit of a dilemma, now only 3 weeks til school (and my season) finishes, with my target routes wet and everything repeatedly getting wet I'm wondering whether to end it early and start prepping to allow a better shot at the (shunted back) Autumn goals.  I'm supposed to be in a peak phase but psyche is sinking, weight is rising and performance is suffering.  Seems I'm not very good at peaking, I just end up agitated with the lack of activity and start snacking.

[Luke Owens]

M: Cave - Tried "The Flake Start" (7A+), just one move left to work out. Kept falling off the end of Right Wall Traverse (7A) I find the end bit way harder than it should be.

T: Rest

W: LPT - Bolt-to-bolted up "Mean Mother" (7b) worked out crux and clips. Only had time for one redpoint and fell half way through the crux. Keen to come back to finish it.

T - S: Rest, had planned to get out Friday eve but plans fell through then attempted to fit in some foot-on campus on the weekend but never happened...

Started a Ketogenic diet on Thursday. Besides the reported benefits of weight loss the main reason I wanted to try it was due to people saying they had a lot more energy.

So far so good, few things that I've noticed is that I feel thirsty all the time despite drinking tons of water, water tastes more appealing than usual, eating bacon is ace, I'm not as tired as usual and I feel full constantly. I'm usually a constant snacker and I haven't felt the need to snack at all since switching. Giving up bread was easier than expected too. Keen to see how it goes going forward.

[Dexter]

VSTG (very short term goal): Get back in to good shape after 3 weeks off
STG: Louis armstrong
MTG: More 8B's, the ace, bigger belly, keen roof etc.
LTG: Hubble

M; Nowt
T; Nowt
W; Nowt
T; Indoor sesh, first one back. Felt ok, did some decent problems and felt relatively strong
F; Nowt
S; Nowt
S; Second indoor session back, felt hard, forearms were sore from the start.

car suspension broke so was reliant on lifts this week but should be fixed tomorrow hopefully so can get back on it. May start running and core on days off again too

[r-man]

Su: Blackstone edge. Really nice session - therapeutic walk out. Did some mid 6's that were quite challenging and fun, then worked and managed the 7A stand to Mike Adams arete up near the trig point.. the 7B semi sit start felt all wrong (upon video inspection I was starting incorrectly). Went and worked Nicks traverse on the Hueco blocs - felt really nice - did all the moves but too boxed to link. One to come back for.

A week back on the rock! Superb - and back doing some new 7's...

Mike actually did it from a proper sitter at 7B, though I got mixed up and did it from a crouch, which still felt 7Bish to me. Mike's proper sitter might be harder - will have to give it a go sometime.

[shark]

Simon kindly super glued tape on my split finger tip.

attempted some foot on campusing on crimps. Definitely need stronger finger... ouch. Might have to start finger boarding

  You have only just got over a major finger injury and it will be more prone to re-injury.

Listen to the Nurse shark

[Coops_13]

Got on Last Stand 7A, did in two parts then felt something twang in my right hand as pulling through a two finger sidepull-pocket on the link. NNFN! Pain in middle and ring finger as well as pain in wrist where those tendons run. Any advice for this?

Strange new hand/finger injury. Able to do Mark's roof without pain but any crimping or pockets very sore in fingers and base of palm. Stuff like using a knife to cut up food particularly sore. Anyone had this before, I'm hoping it's just a tendon strain in the hand?!?

Self-diagnosed flexor unit strain, looks like a period of rest and ice for me (again  )

[mr chaz]

FFS Coops look after yourself!

Goals 8A 8b

M. Nowt.
T. One arm hangs and indoor bouldering.
W. Rest
T. One arm hangs.
F. 45 degree board, core and pushups.
S. Drove to Lancaster to pick up little brother from uni.
S. Light bouldering indoors

Suffering slightly with what feels like a trapped nerve in my neck, was hoping its just muscular/ would go away quickly.

[duncan]

Connors, you must have high standards if a week including Supersonic counts as a bit of a non-starter! (I blew the onsight pulling a hold off on easy territory at the top but the ground-up is still to be done...I trust the move into Flakey is not markedly harder?).

Coops: look after yourself please.

STG: re-establish good shoulder rehab. habits (getting there). Try an E5? (post-Ceuse confidence waning...). Lose 3 kgs.
MTG: various long, hard and free - Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; big sea-cliff E5 - by the end of Summer.
LTG: Font 7a. Sport 7b+. Something very LH&F (and ideally in condition in August).

M -
T - Shoulder strength/stability exercises
W - Westway fridge bouldering: to V2. Sore shoulder.
T - Shoulder strength/stability exercises
F - Westway bouldering: good warm-up, then c.13 fridge problems to V3. Really good session, think the seven stages of grief may have reached anger at this point.
S - Mentally and physically battered. Comfort-eating.
S - Shoulder strength/stability exercises. Family

A decent week of training though impossible to divorce the wider world and felt like I was sleepwalking through the weekend. Considered another session on Sunday but took the extra rest day. Operating at ~80% and only trying things I can do first or second go but need to start pulling slightly harder now.

Plan: busy week socially including 16 hours of Wagner (it’s our annual Gods and Monsters extravaganza). Should manage two indoor sessions and hopefully one outside on Saturday.

[shark]

Connors, you must have high standards if a week including Supersonic counts as a bit of a non-starter!

He's on a mission

[fried]

I had considerable success using an Aircast A60 ankle brace to get me back into bouldering (jumping off)

Cheers! Ordered one this morning.

[tomtom]

Simon kindly super glued tape on my split finger tip.

[/quote]

You look good with your hair down sweetie xx

[Duma]

Ha, me too (for my mum)
Reply to fried, obviously...

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


Start of peak phase.

M.
T. PE sesh 5. Foot-on at boardroom. Felt tired, didn't match previous sesh. Reduced rest time anyway.
W.
T. PE sesh 6. Foot-on at Mill. Felt tired again, reduced rest time again anyway.
F.
S. Tor, Mecca sesh 4. RH undercut wet. Tried 'razor' move but failed to hold it. Worked traverse moves. Short session.
S. Tor. Mecca sesh 5. RH undercut wet. Tried razor move and held it, then repeated it 4 times. Yes! Breakthrough! Then worked undercut traverse into razor move, failed to hold it on the link but feels like it should happen soon. Good breakthrough sesh! Have now done every move except throw to  'ear' at bottom of the groove, although haven't really tried that move until yesterday.

Happy with Mecca progress, feels like bouldering - impossible impossible impossible click doable. Psyched! Torn back muscle and wet weather put a hold on things for a week but back on track again (well, apart from minging midweek this week..). Still staying away from the move that tweaked back muscle until next weekend. Feels like approaching a good peak but I'm not familiar enough with any links on the route to be at redpoint stage just yet, hope I can get some action from the peak.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. In late from work dinner on the table managed some repeaters afterwards felt crap and rather bloated.
Wed. Off work bike 122.98 miles 7 hours 23 mins a bit battered at the end but felt better than expected.
Thu. Board not going that well, seemed to be lacking in core strength.  Did 2 sets off warm up problems then 5 sets of repeaters.
Fri. Rode to work 20 miles. Rode home 20 miles.
Sat. Board struggling due being hungover and it being hot and humid. Just did laps on a couple of problems using different footholds.
Sun. Bike 62 miles 3 hrs 50 mins fairly hilly ride very windy as well. So it felt hard.

[36chambers]

M:
T: The Cuttings, Portland. Spent half the day sport climbing, followed by bouldering. I really shouldn't do both activities on the same day, it reminds me how bouldering is infinitely better than sport climbing.
W:
T: Indoor bouldering, non training.
F:
S: Another wedding. Cake.
S: Called in at Anston Stones on my way up north for a quick play.

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

69.5kg.

Body Audit: clear (touch wood)

M: Work am, pm drive to Cornwall, nice eve, but too much 
T: Hungover, wasted whole day. Twat. Surf in eve which was hard work, only second surf this year. knackered.
W: stopped by Hartland for a look at Ache Ball on way back to Bristol, raining, and spring tide had properly soaked the cave earlier so bit of a non starter. Lots of chalk and toweling got it semi dryish, but no psyche and seemed hard, beach level too high really too. Waste of time.
T: Took daughter to TCA after school, did most of the new 5s circuit
F: Sulked
S: Daughter went to best mates party at clip n climb in bloc, so stole half an hour playing on a few high 6s
S: Swimming with daughter, bit of breath holding.

Shit week, hope to improve training this week.

[filz]

M: board climbing. First good workout in a couple of months.
T: Lunch. Theraband shoulder exercises and squats. Too hot. Ever. Board climbing. Tired. Repeated a couple of test problems. Harder then some months ago, but happy to have done them.
W: isometric weights
T: Lunch: more theraband shoulder exercises. Eve 3x3 session on the board. Too hot and too tired.
F: nothing
S: Bouldering in the dolomites. Much better than a month ago, but lacking body tension.
S: nothing

Good week overall. After a couple of months of lack of motivation and some minor injuries I seem to be back on track.

[SA Chris]

STG get some fitness up for cycling and surfing on hols
LTG get climbing again.

M - bike after work, 24k
T - bike after work 29k
W - packed
T - Fly to London, travel chaos. In London clearing out aunt's house. Knackering
F - clearing out aunt's house. Knackering.
S - am unloading crap at dump and charity shops. Afternoon barbie.
S - clearing out aunt's house. Knackered. Fly home.

[Footwork]

Time to get stuck in

STG (up to sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark and Personal Services
LTG (up to end of 2016): Manage climbing without hurting/ overdoing shoulder. Seem to be happy sport climbing for now. Climb, climb and climb. Get as much classic yorkshire trad done as possible.

Mon: Depot. First time climbing since final exams. Two months sat at a desk does wonder for your climbing...
Tues: Malham trad with Tom. Seconded Wombat and dogged up Slender Loris. Amazing climbs, airy positions and I was terrified of the heights. First time topping out at Malham and converted to the trad there.
Weds: Kilnsey. Lead Directissima (basically onsight, rested on a bolt 5 years ago). Too pumped to clip chain on Nerve Ending. Ended up using the draw to clip after I kept dropping the rope mm from the gate. FFS.
Thurs: Almscliff eve with Huw. Did the VS's in the rift I was always too scared to solo. 6m of struggle.
Fri:
Sat: Bojan bailed so ended up at Slipstones. 20 degrees, zero wind and midge hell. Managed a handful of climbs before I melted/ inevitably fell off. Ran away to Knaresborough for ice cream.
Sun:

God I missed rock climbing.

[csl]

STG (up to sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark and Personal Services 

G'wan lad! You'll get up them, and more!

[shark]

Tues: Malham trad with Tom. Seconded Wombat and dogged up Slender Loris. Amazing climbs, airy positions and I was terrified of the heights.

Great routes - Slender Loris one of trhe all time greats. If you think they are airy try Limehill and Midnight Cowboy

[Footwork]

STG (up to sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark and Personal Services 

G'wan lad! You'll get up them, and more!

gonna larn forth 

Great routes - Slender Loris one of trhe all time greats. If you think they are airy try Limehill and Midnight Cowboy

The reach between the top breaks on Slender is heart breaking. Loved the crozzly side pulls. That upper band of rock is just awesome.

[nik at work]

Bird ban ends today, hell yeah!!

M - nothing
T - training traverse wall
7b x 2
8a x 1
8a+ x 1
8b/+ - fail
8b/+ - fail
8a
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - training traverse
7b x 1
8a x 1
8b x 1
8b/+ - fail
8a x 2
S - Training traverse
7b x 2
8a x 1
8a+ x 1
8b x 1
8a x 1
S - nothing

Pretty good week mileage wise again, would be nice to get some actual routes climbed though...