[Paul B]

Nat's brother is now working in Aus (Sydney) for a tax-law firm (seemingly he's loving it compared to his stupidly busy London life and this may become more permanent).

Whilst he's over there Nat wants to visit and I'm not going all that way without climbing (sport). So, as the title suggests, when would be best (reliable OK conditions favoured rather than perfect sometimes but unpredictable), where (in terms of crags) and probably some time in the future what!?

I'm aware of the Bluies and the Grampians, I'm also aware of the scale of the place and I'm not sure if it's realistic to climb at both in one trip.

Any help is much appreciated.

[Paul B]

How long can you go for?

Work seem to b0rk beyond the 3-week mark although a month may be possible. I'd imagine we'd lose at least half a week (possibly more) towards family duties and seeing Sydney.

[Bonjoy]

Google maps says 11 hours from Sydney to Horsham (town next to Arapiles). Blue Mountains are good but the Gramps are amazing. That said there is a lot more out and out sport climbing at BM.
Taipan and Eureka wall are truly work class, but neither has sport climbs as such, though there is a decent sport sector just right of Taipan. Remember that if a guide mentions bolts on an old route it may well mean carrot bolts, for which you need some removable hangers. This deffo applies to some of the few sport routes at Arapiles, or did in 2003.
Like Habrich says Bundaleer is good. Think giant version of Froggatt. It has a handful of excellent sport routes but is mostly trad.

[Nibile]

Three weeks to one month? Come on Paul, it's not worth it, as I'm sure Barrows will confirm. Much better if you let Nat go visit her brother, and you stay in Sheffield, going climbing everyday with some of the many unemployed climbing bums Sheffield is full of, or going to the Schoolroom, and then you party fucking hard every fucking night, throwin' moves in the clubs, paying drinks to the girls, and generally being cool as fuck and having a monster ball all the time.
That's what I'd do anyway.
 

[Adam Lincoln]

I lived there for a while Paul. Grab me at Kilnsey and ill let you know the score. Basically avoid Jan and feb, way too hot for climbing.

Need a dog sitter? 

[Yoof]

I lived in Sydney last year and did a fair bit around metropolitan Sydney, as well as at the Bluies and the Gramps, though it was mainly bouldering for me.

When: Last year there were good reliable conditions between the end of May and the end of July- earlier in the year was just too hot and wet. September was bloody hot.

Where: Few more to add to the mix- there's some new stuff going up around Campbell town (Sydney) which is pretty exciting- big rooves, nice lines and hard projects (thinking of the hideaway and the junkyard in particular).

People rave on about Nowra and Sutherland too although I never went. In terms of routes to do- scour thecrag.com and just do the ones which look best (photo topos are really helpful).

The Bluies are 2 or 3 hours drive from central Sydney, and most people go to "Bell's Supercrag", Centennial Glen, Diamond Falls Boronia, Shipley and many others. Probably best to ask some locals when you're there.

If you want to meet some climbers over there then heading to the Villawood Gym is probably the best bet.

[Paul B]

Three weeks to one month? Come on Paul, it's not worth it, as I'm sure Barrows will confirm. Much better if you let Nat go visit her brother, and you stay in Sheffield
 

I left Sheffield mate, about 18 months ago now (and I don't think I've looked back really):
35 mins to Kilnsey
30 mins to Malham (parking)

Nope. I'm good.

I lived there for a while Paul. Grab me at Kilnsey and ill let you know the score. Basically avoid Jan and feb, way too hot for climbing.

Need a dog sitter? 

Will do, thanks (and probably).

Yoof, Habrich, Bonjoy - thanks. I'll digest that info and see where it leaves me. Taipan is what I think of when people say climbing and Australia. Traddy-sport is fine and Nat is an absolute hero when things get spicy (far better than me).

[SA Chris]

I'd fly to Melbourne and hire a car rather than drive from Sydney (unless you have access to a car for free and fancy a looooong drive on open roads. Week - 19 days in Sydney doing family tick and some sightseeing / cragging  / bouldering / chilling on Bondi, then rest of time between Araps and Grampians (you can easily get between the two for day trips, just avoid driving at dusk, as knowing your luck you will get a large grey kangaroo through the windscreen.

[Bonjoy]

Yoof, Habrich, Bonjoy - thanks. I'll digest that info and see where it leaves me. Taipan is what I think of when people say climbing and Australia. Traddy-sport is fine and Nat is an absolute hero when things get spicy (far better than me).

In that case make Taipan your main goal, it is possibly the best bit of rock I've ever climbed on. Eureka is home to the two super classic routes Pythagoras Theorem and Archimedes Principle , both utterly stunning.

[siderunner]

I'm based in Sydney, it's only 2hrs drive to most of the bluies.

Anyone able to comment on the easier lines at Taipan - specifically is there anything 25 and below that's quality and not hideously runout?