[Mirf]

While trying to cross the river back from Squirrel buttress a vehicle pulled up( I assume was a warden or semething like that) he informed me that I was not allowed to cross the river as it was private although he seemed to be ok with me being on the land. I apologised and said I was unaware that the water was private.

 Probably worth keeping a low profile and walking in on the other side either through the giant rhubarb or along the old railway and drop down.

[blacky]

Don't cross the river. Questing though the plants will result in nettle stings and wet feet fo sho.

[url]http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22471.0[url]

Best way is to park at Millers Dale Station and walk down the Monsal Trail for about 400m. When you get to some Heras fencing there are a couple of blocks missing from the wall on the left, just after the woodland starts. Cross here and head down the hill through the wood. Go left slightly under a rock buttress and head towards a sycamore with low spreading branches at the bottom of the slope. This brings you out to the right of the crag (looking from road on other side) 

[dave]

Update on this - went to check out this buttress yesterday and the approach is a bit of a deathtrap after rain, VERY slippy and probably best avoided if it's wet.

Also we were unable to identify the best path down from the top, despite the above description (it's much further than 400m along the Monsal trail, probably more like 600m). Also a few obvious potential access points with what looked like vague paths down from that point have large unrooted (i.e dead) hawthorn bushes seemingly deliberately put there at the top, presumably to deter access.

[Bonjoy]

Is there anything suitable at the top of the approach path/slide that you could sling a rope round to provide a handline (or abseil if really bad)? Bringing a short length of rope might be the least worst option.

[dave]

Yeah I mean there's tons of trees and what not, but I get the impression if say anglers (or whoever) have indeed been taking the initiative to block to top approaches with dead hawthorn bushes then a rope isn't going to be appreciated or last very long.

[T_B]

Without wanting to state the obvious, you did take trekking poles didn't you Dave? River crossing and all that? I went for a look last year and it was fine getting across. Couldn't get off the deck on any of the problems tho!

[Bonjoy]

The anglers have no jurisdiction over that approach, or use of the crag. From what I recall the land is managed by the national park authority who have granted climbers access.

[dave]

Without wanting to state the obvious, you did take trekking poles didn't you Dave? River crossing and all that? I went for a look last year and it was fine getting across. Couldn't get off the deck on any of the problems tho!

I've been across the river fine in previous years (I used to keep some old reef sandals in the car, brushstick as an improvised third leg), but we avoided it as it seemed that from reading various recent threads it looked like the tide was turning (pun intended) against using the wading approach due to some folk having issues with anglers etc.

My personal preference would be the wading approach, as it's the most direct and it's the one that leave the least impact (any sustained use the the hillside descent could easily turn it into a necky mudslide). If the far bank is indeed national park with access* and the near back is presumably public access (unfenced and no indication to the contrary) then they surely there's no legal impediment to wading over.

Might still be wise to do it when there's nobody fishing, or possibly not parking directly opposite, if just to avoid any agro or drawing attention to yourself.

*(interesting, as other have said it's private land, I'm sure Bonjoy is correct)

[Bonjoy]

I've checked old emails and what I said is correct.

[dave]

I've checked old emails and what I said is correct.

Nice one fella.