Those flat-soled Scarpa shoes?? Pretty garish colours and called something a long the lines of techno x. could be the ticket? I reckon the new 5.10 pinks are pretty good for what you describe though if they dont fit, maybe not. they are nowhere near as aggressive as whites and are therefore pretty comfortable in cracks but are technical enough to edge and smear.
Moccs are great for cracks and smears but not very good and quite tiring on granite crystals and edges. Ok as a comfy allrounder on easy stuffPinks: yes they should work really well...I'd also look at lasportiva: Tc pros, katana laces and otaki...
Pinks go from stiff, to perfect to carpet slippers very quickly.
Quote from: fried on June 08, 2016, 05:39:54 pmPinks go from stiff, to perfect to carpet slippers very quickly.Hmm. This is why I binned 5.10 in the first place - blancos only lasting a month before they were useless. I do want them for crack and smear though, not edging. I felt like the new Vapour Velcros were slightly more down-turned and aggressive than the original, but it's hard to tell.
Andy - were those V2s or V1?V2:
Quote from: Fultonius on June 08, 2016, 06:11:56 pmAndy - were those V2s or V1?V2:V2 - the most recent version.
Quote from: AndyR on June 09, 2016, 08:00:35 amQuote from: Fultonius on June 08, 2016, 06:11:56 pmAndy - were those V2s or V1?V2:V2 - the most recent version.Sound good. How are you sizing them?
Also, I don't understand the point in anyone recommending an edging shoe for cracks.
Quote from: ashtond6 on June 08, 2016, 11:31:19 pmAlso, I don't understand the point in anyone recommending an edging shoe for cracks.i understood the point perfectly while climbing the enduro corner on astroman in moccs... many reasonable stemming stances turned into painful and shaky experiences because the shoes were too sloppy to push comfortably on small edges and crystals.in my limited experience,sloppy shoes and especially moccs are killers when the crack is the main feature and/or everything else is rounded, big or very smeary...sadly it isn't the case for most granite!
I've done the hardest grade I've done across all disciplines (boulder, sport and trad) in a pair of 5:10 Velcros, including offwidthing. Obviously heavily dependant on foot shape but my go-to-shoe whenever I need an all-rounder.
IMO - and I live in Yosemite - nothing comes even close to TC Pros for granite cracks and faces.I have narrow feet and once broken in the fit is great. They feel a little weird until broken in.For reference fit wise, my other shoes I wear regularly are:1.) Vapor Velcro (too aggressive for cracks to be comfy)2.) 5.10 Moccasyms (good for thin cracks, too soft for hand / fist cracks, shit for edging).3.) 5.10 Anasazi Velcro (pretty good but too soft to be comfy on long multi pitch cracks).I would definitely go with TC Pros if you can. It took me while to get used to them, but now I love them and wouldn't choose anything else for the granite.
In particular I became obsessed with finding the correct shoes for Freeway (and sent stern emails to Simon suggesting he think likewise). Whilst I hate painful feet from over-tight shoes worn on long routes, the “calf-burning stems on micro features” seemed to require a precision shoe. My usual shoe choice for easier long routes is a baggy pair of old-school La Sportiva Mythos, and for harder single-pitch trad the same firm’s Miuras, sized as tight as I can bear. Neither seemed right for Freeway.My first experiment was to buy some Miuras one half-size larger than usual. They were - initially - disappointing. I did a lap up Grand Wall in them, with Eric Hildrew, another Brit visitor, in town a few weeks before Simon and his family. The Miuras hurt, yet didn’t feel very precise. In a panic, I made a very left-field choice: a pair of Mythos, sized tighter than usual, and, for extra impact, in the women’s style which is significantly narrower. For a while I managed to delude myself that these were good shoes, and even took them for (another) lap up Grand Wall, with Simon and his son Tom. But a couple of obvious negatives were hard to ignore: one, that they were scarcely less sloppy than my normal Mythos, and, worse, two, that my feet were tending to pop out of the shoes’ shallow heel cups.Eventually, in search of objectivity, I carried a bouldering pad and my entire shoe collection to a slab near my home, notable for some thin problems. In particular there is a sandbag V2 which starts with two consecutive rock-ups on small crystals, on which I often fail. The only reliable shoe I own for moves like that is the Five Ten Anasazi White, a stiff “plank” too foot-crushing to wear for any significant time. Predictably the problem wouldn’t go in Mythos of any flavour, nor in any of the other oddities I have accumulated down the years (Five Ten 5X’s, Red Chilli Spirits … czech carpet slippers … etc). However the aha! moment came when I did manage the two crystal moves in the new upsized Miura's, even though they felt awkward and clunky. I decided to stop fussing and just concentrate on getting those shoes thoroughly broken-in.
