[csl]

I've only got the Haute Provence rockfax, but heard there is a bunch of good stuff at St Leger which isn't in it. Does anyone have a topo?

Im in Ceuse and its looking a bit rainy next week so probably north facing stuff would be best given the temps. Any recommendations welcome also!

[Coops_13]

Get to Volx if you can, some really good routes there at a good range of grades. I particularly enjoyed Charles de Goal, 7b. Enough there for a couple of days at least and it's steep so should be dry.

[Duncan campbell]

If it's rainy St. Leger will be OK but probably not the best crag to choose from. Volx sounds like a better choice to me. St Leger is really good though. The local guide gives a bit more than the Rockfax - mainly the Balene sector.

[csl]

Done everything i can at Volx bar Hueco and partners probably not so keen, but thanks for the tip.

St Leger has a better forecast so thats why was thinking of that. I guess i'll look for the local topo.

[Coops_13]

You could always head West towards Gorges du Tarn/Orgon. May have a better forecast and not too long a drive?

[jwi]

You can get the local topo (Escalade autour du Ventoux) in Gap. Also at the farm you pass on the way down to the main parking lot. Or in the book shop in Malauscene.

La Baleine (after 12AM-2PM depending on route) and the North face (after 11 AM) are both very good. It's also possible to climb on the East face after hmm... 2PM maybe. And on the south face later at the evening.

I've mostly climbed on the North Face. All 7bs on the left side are good. The one with an iffy clip (that they warn about in RF and the local book) has been rebolted. Roland Culet on the right side is an amazing 7b+. The short 7b+ on the left (Vite fait, bien fait ) is good but very bouldery in the start. I haven't done the new 7b+ to the right of of East Side story (not in guide) but I hear its good and very sustained on top. The best 7c is likely Les Clowns, very continuous on good holds. Le Sumo est parmi nous is also quite good but has not the best boltning. Les Rifougneurs is another amazing 7c, quite run out on top, but don't underestimate the first pitch... Black Mamba is the softest possible touch for 8a. Quite good but a bit chancy on top. Quand les blues l'emporte ... is also a nice 8a in a very sustained style. 27 moves of about the same difficulties to a decent shake out.

[jwi]

About Baleine... I don't know if the amazing Tufa-routes in the ass of the whale are within reach? There are two 7c/+s the rest are mostly harder. However, despite the look of them the long routes on the head of the whale (left side of the crag) are mostly really good, especially for the onsight. It's much steeper than it looks, thus it's not all ledges as you'd be tempted to think before starting up any of them.

Dieu s'est trompé l'adresse (7b) is one of the better ones.

[csl]

Thanks jwi, great info! Now have a topo in case we end up over that way, will see what the weather does. Those all sounds good, up to about 7c could be possible in-a-day targets I guess so will have a look at those suggestions.

Coops, Tarn would be an option, except that we've got a Gite below Ceuse so could only do a day trip. Its about 4/5 hours to Tarn from Ceuse sadly.

[T_B]

I was told by someone before climbing on the North Face at St Leger that it was sh*t and loose . I didn't believe them, thinking this is France after all, it can't be that bad? Ha! I thought the rock quality was pretty poor and overall I didn't rate it at all (best route was that Roland Culet). I was only on stuff up to 7b+, the big tufa lines looked good if you like greasy sharp tufa 

[csl]

Fair enough! Good to know, the ideal is of course that the weather ends up ok and I don't have to leave Ceuse!

[T_B]

Yeah Ceuse to the north face of St Leger would kind of be like Malham to Cornice Cheedale. The latter being fine if you're local...

[csl]

I only have experience of the Malham side of that equation, but I get the gist!