UKBouldering.com

Megoswad (Read 174481 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#325 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:29:40 am
Is there still an issue with pikeys (or the local equivalent) going around in the evenings and nicking hidden kit?

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2814
  • Karma: +159/-4
#326 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:48:20 am
Never heard anything like that. Its not hard to stash your kit somewhere it won't be found in any case.

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#327 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 08:51:20 am
The Approach

All joking aside, I've never understood the terror the walk in elicits in people. Its a beautiful walk on a winding track through a forest and is a piece of piss once you've stashed a rope up there. If you're halfway fit it won't be an issue.

It is weird how much it gets talked about. I know someone there at the moment who reckons she's knackered by it and she did battle cat in 3 goes. Cora has some kind of exercise induced asthma though so anything that'll spare a bit of panting is good beta tbh.  :)

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#328 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 09:09:46 am
pikeys

C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.

macca7

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +4/-0
#329 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 09:41:27 am
pikeys

C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.

But cheating cunts is fine  :-\

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#330 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 09:59:39 am
pikeys

C'mon Chris, I know you wouldn't use other ethnic slurs, this one is not ok either.

I sat for about 5 minutes trying to think of a term to use that wasn't offensive, what should I use other than macca's suggestion? It was a known group who were doing it.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#331 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 11:25:20 am
Thieves? No, I don't like the word Macca quoted either, but I hadn't seen that post.

rjtrials

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 67
  • Karma: +3/-4
#332 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 12:54:26 pm
On this side of the Atlantic, they call themselves travelers.

danm

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 827
  • Karma: +112/-1
#333 Re: Megoswad
August 13, 2020, 11:15:48 pm
Going back to saving effort on the walk-in, I've heard that due to cuts in BMC staff salaries, Caff is renting out his chopper at a good rate. You heard it here first.

Going back to gypsies and stealing - who could have guessed that being marginalised would taint your relationship with those who marginalise you? We let a gypsy family use a field for their horses and treated them with respect once when I was a kid, despite them having a terrible reputation in our area, and guess what? In return we got nothing but respect, help and honesty back. Weird, huh?

Plattsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1331
  • Karma: +58/-2
#334 Re: Megoswad
August 14, 2020, 10:51:28 am
Going back to saving effort on the walk-in, I've heard that due to cuts in BMC staff salaries, Caff is renting out his chopper at a good rate. You heard it here first.

Going back to gypsies and stealing - who could have guessed that being marginalised would taint your relationship with those who marginalise you? We let a gypsy family use a field for their horses and treated them with respect once when I was a kid, despite them having a terrible reputation in our area, and guess what? In return we got nothing but respect, help and honesty back. Weird, huh?
I would've guessed the responsibility of the marginalisation and the quality of relationship lies somewhere in the middle.

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube
#335 Re: Megoswad
August 14, 2020, 10:56:06 am
I heard that Dave Graham used a quad bike to get up there when he did Biographie  :2thumbsup:

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#336 Re: Megoswad
September 14, 2020, 11:02:58 pm
9a flash today. Not 100% up to speed on these things but don’t think that many have done this. Him and Ondra?

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/?igshid=158jy8aprduj2

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#337 Re: Megoswad
September 15, 2020, 06:47:57 am
I do not know of anyone else who have 9a flashes/onsights. How many climbers have onsighted or flashed 8c+ except Megos (a handful), Ondra (twenty or so), Puigblanque(1), Midtbø(1) and Usobiaga(1)?

HaeMeS

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 170
  • Karma: +13/-0
#338 Re: Megoswad
September 15, 2020, 02:19:39 pm
@JWI: Sebastian Halenke (http://fanatic-climbing.com/sebastian-halenke-imperial-au-kronthal-sebastian-halenke-strikes-in-kronthal/.

Domen Skofic did Mind Control and Nordic Flower, but both have been downgraded. Also happened with Klemen Becan and his Siempre se puede hacer menos FA in Chulilla.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#339 Re: Megoswad
September 15, 2020, 04:32:33 pm
yeah, I did know that I did not know about all of them. Mitdbø did not do Cosi... when it was actually 8c+, according to a prominent member of the French downgrading mafia... etc... Best to do more than twenty of them....

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#340 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 08:41:15 am
Nice bit of beef between Bock and Megos:


Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#341 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 09:41:52 am
I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.

Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#342 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 09:59:48 am
Ye, Fair enough squeezing them in at shitty quarries like my dad does but not in classic areas/ next to classic routes. Bock said if someone even did a different exit to one of his he’d remove it.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#343 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 10:14:26 am
As Barrows said on the other thread, without knowing the crag and where exactly the holds on each route are it's hard to judge whether the new line is squeezed in or not. It doesn't appear that bad on the topo.

Regardless of who is right and who is wrong in this instance I think it's great that they have this sort of conversation over there. It's so easy to ruin good quality lines by forcing new routes in just to the side. If only people were more discerning in the UK - especially when it comes to squeezing in more 6s at existing crags.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#344 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 12:45:31 pm
9a flash today. Not 100% up to speed on these things but don’t think that many have done this. Him and Ondra?

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/?igshid=158jy8aprduj2

Missed this at the time, good effort. I loved the old video of Tomas Mrazek on it, rocking some serious white trous.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#345 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 01:08:02 pm
That was a classic video, so much roof, blew my mind at the time.

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#346 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 01:43:54 pm
I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.

Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.

Since no-one appears to be Franken-literate enough to get my joke, I should point out that Corona, 9a+ which starts up Burn For You and is as close to it throughout it's length as Megos' new line is.... a Markus Bock route. #needsacarrotuphisasshole

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#347 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 01:59:45 pm
I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.

Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.

Since no-one appears to be Franken-literate enough to get my joke, I should point out that Corona, 9a+ which starts up Burn For You and is as close to it throughout it's length as Megos' new line is.... a Markus Bock route. #needsacarrotuphisasshole

Haha. I did wonder after.. One rule for the old and one for the youths.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#348 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 02:04:29 pm
As long as there's vegetables up arses tho....

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2814
  • Karma: +159/-4
#349 Re: Megoswad
October 23, 2020, 03:26:20 pm
I love the way the translation refers to the Franconian Jura. Brilliant.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal