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Megoswad (Read 174577 times)

spidermonkey09

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#275 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 04:27:58 pm
Was saying the same thing earlier; properly inspirational line, in contrast to Ondras which just looks nails.

Off topic, but the only conclusion to the grades comment is things were wrong a long time ago then! France is tough in general I agree.

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#276 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 04:35:59 pm
Off topic, but the only conclusion to the grades comment is things were wrong a long time ago then! France is tough in general I agree.
How can French grades be wrong in France?

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#277 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 04:40:11 pm
Basically french climbing was Buoux and Verdon. Ceuse was the new boy on the block and if you spent most of your time at the 1st two, as many of us did, Grades at the later seemed like a bargain.

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#278 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 04:43:37 pm
Anyway back to the news. This looks amazing and being located on one of, if not thee, best piece of rock in the world makes it even more outstanding.

Ged

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#279 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 08:01:15 pm
With the exception of the narly bouldery starts on Berlin Wall, I never thought ceuse was particularly sandbaggy. If anything it's a lot more forgiving than somewhere like rodellar where there's not really anywhere to hide if you haven't got the specific strength and fitness. Ceuse always seemed like hard climbing but good rests.

remus

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#280 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 11:31:33 pm
Megos has given it 9c (according to his post on IG).

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#281 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 08:39:17 am
9-motherfucking-c!!  :dance1:

Gotta say it looks a bit bland and homogenuous in the photo, typical featureless plod. Where's the V15 crack climbing and kneebars??  ;)

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#282 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 09:11:02 am
9-motherfucking-c!!  :dance1:

Gotta say it looks a bit bland and homogenuous in the photo, typical featureless plod. Where's the V15 crack climbing and kneebars??  ;)

Thats after the double dyno onto the pink slopey volume :)

Whats wrong with a 9C crimp plod? :D where you start with 20mm edges/crimps and they diminish by 1/2mm and get 2cm further apart as you get higher...

That said I like Ondras Flatanger things where there's all sorts of odd body positions and weird knee shit going on...

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#283 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 11:21:56 am
I’d love to celebrate this achievement but I’ve no idea if Megos eats healthily enough. Does anyone have the details on that?  ;)

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#284 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 11:59:48 am
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

spidermonkey09

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#285 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 12:02:35 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!

tomtom

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#286 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 12:06:34 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

:D

SA Chris

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#287 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 12:44:02 pm
One more thing. It's presently in the 30s in Gap. I know Ceuse is a lot higher and cooler, but still, hardly primo?

spidermonkey09

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#288 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 12:48:14 pm
Pretty normal in that part of France, no? Once the shade hits it gets pretty cool in the shade in my experience and there is often a breeze up at the cliff. No doubt would be better in the autumn but it definitely seems to be viewed as a summer crag by most.

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#289 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 12:49:58 pm
I think you can still get pretty amazing evening conditions even when it's hot down in the valley.

Must've been a very different experience trying a project like that, basically centre stage at one of the busiest crags out there, compared to ondra working silence in relative peace and quiet.

SA Chris

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#290 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 12:53:55 pm
Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.

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#291 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 01:04:26 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

The climbing on silence looks amazing, more interesting than this I guess, but the line is not great in the flesh, In fact it’s about the least inspiring one in the cave.

Megos route looks a much more impressive “non “ line.

gme

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#292 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 01:10:07 pm
Dunno, I spent 3 weeks in july there the year after moving from SA, and it was pretty hot (almost too hot) most days. Guess the sectors I was on didn't overhang by 30 degrees though.
I lived there the summers of 91 and 92 and thought conditions were great on the Berlin/ biography sectors. Cascade more of a winter venue, perfect in the sun other than cornice collapse.

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#293 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 01:47:36 pm
Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

It's not a competition, they're both incredible bits of climbing in their own ways, by two amazing climbers. That said, this made me chuckle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDkQy3iDhD_/?igshid=1bsx2okgyxgfp

If I had to put money on it, I reckon Bibliography will be repeated before Silence is.

The climbing on silence looks amazing, more interesting than this I guess, but the line is not great in the flesh, In fact it’s about the least inspiring one in the cave.

Megos route looks a much more impressive “non “ line.

Ah okay, yeah I get what you mean. I was thinking about the movement, which on Silence just looks mind boggling whilst Bibliography is much more conventional.

No doubt. I'd raise the bet to Ondra repeats Bibliographie before Megos does Silence!

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

spidermonkey09

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#294 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:08:04 pm

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

Most likely, although I would love to see him up there grappling with that crack!

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#295 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:41:33 pm

Yeah, 100%. In fact I'd raise you and bet Megos will never do Silence.

Most likely, although I would love to see him up there grappling with that crack!

I heard silence has been partially ruined due to someone trying to make a replica/mould of it.

Ged

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#296 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:44:53 pm
Seriously? Ruined as in left crap on the rock whilst making a mold, or damaged the rock?

spidermonkey09

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#297 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:46:19 pm
I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/

Adam Lincoln

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#298 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 02:50:34 pm
I've heard that rumour too but I think its bollocks borne of people spaffing on Insta. See this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/i1p2ds/the_silence_was_not_chipped_or_glued/

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

spidermonkey09

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#299 Re: Megoswad
August 07, 2020, 03:17:18 pm

If its true that its sorted then fair enough. Not read all the comments to confirm if its fixed and back to original form.

Basically it sounds like if Seb had given it a brush there wouldn't have been an issue  :lol:

 

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