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Megoswad (Read 174496 times)

jwi

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#250 Re: Megoswad
May 11, 2018, 10:37:24 am
Scary strong on pockets. I hope he has saved some 9a+s in Margalef for onsight attempts.

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#251 Re: Megoswad
May 11, 2018, 01:57:30 pm


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#252 Re: Megoswad
May 11, 2018, 10:48:23 pm
He joins the club! That overhang is a shocking place.

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#253 Re: Megoswad
June 11, 2018, 04:30:22 pm
The boy has a weakness. Very excited about going to a Taylor Swift concert.
Maybe his route is only 9b.

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#254 Re: Megoswad
June 11, 2018, 09:50:18 pm
9a+ max after admitting that shit.

jwi

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#255 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 07:28:52 am
According to Le Crux - Pizzas - Céüse, Megos has done the Bibliographie project in Céüse. Bolted by Ethan Pringle and widely believed to be 9b+ or c.

Link



pic stolen from http://lizardclimbing.com

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#256 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 07:40:25 am
Just seen an Instagram story from some french climbers at the cliff confirming the above. Awesome news!

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#257 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 07:57:24 am
Brilliant news. Hopefully the name stays. Reading your initial post I thought the restaurant name was what he'd named the route!

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#258 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 08:03:34 am
 :o bon effort! Also that's a shit load of pizzas he's celebrating with.

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#259 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 08:04:53 am
He’ll probably call it Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece II

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#260 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 08:23:20 am
Excellent, Céüse really does look stunning! And also brilliant to get the news via the pizza van!

jwi

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#261 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 08:29:14 am
Excellent, Céüse really does look stunning! And also brilliant to get the news via the pizza van!

The pizza-chef is Laurent Girousse who also wrote the guidebook and have bolted and rebolted many routes.

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#262 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 08:56:06 am
Ah cheers jwi. Still feels more wholesome than IG.
Little bit of detail on the route here:
https://www.grimper.com/news-alex-megos-enchaine-potentiel-9c-ceuse

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#263 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:03:01 am
Google translate of the Grimper article

Yesterday, in the evening, Alex Megos went to the pizzeria "Le Crux" in Céüse to buy food and to celebrate a historic cross that could perhaps claim the title of the hardest path in the world: "Bibliography" . Nothing official yet for the quotation, and an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c before any announcement of the principal concerned, even if, according to the rumors, the 9c is the preferred track.

He had been trying this route for several years. It is just to the right of the mythical 9a + "Biography" that the German climber repeated in just 4 climbs in 2014. "Bibliography" is divided into three very distinct sections: an 8c approach which leads to a hanging rest on two good holds , then an 8B boulder on which you have to engage in a 9a + of pure resistance which goes up the huge belly until the wall straightens, for a total effort of about 35m.

At the end of 2019, Alex Megos released a new Patagonia collaboration film: Rotpunkt. Magnificent images especially with his first and unique 9b +: "Perfecto Mondo" at Margalef. But also, with the first images of "Bibliography", which cost him an incomparably greater investment. We will therefore know very soon, and will not fail to let you know, if "Bibliography" becomes the second proposition in 9c in history after the famous "Silence" of Adam Ondra. More info to follow

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#264 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:11:00 am
Over 40 days at the time of the Patagucci filming so must be approaching 50 days of effort. Mark Leach sieging energy  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

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#265 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:13:36 am
an 8c approach

The walk in does indeed feel about 8c in 30 degrees.

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#266 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:34:18 am
Google translate of the Grimper article

Yesterday, in the evening, Alex Megos went to the pizzeria "Le Crux" in Céüse to buy food and to celebrate a historic cross tick that could perhaps claim the title of the hardest path route in the world: "Bibliography" . Nothing official yet for the quotation grade, and an uncertainty remains between the 9b 9b+ and the 9c before prior to any announcement of from the principal concerned protagonist, even if, according to the rumors, the 9c is the preferred track where it most likely ends up.

He had been trying this route for several years. It is just to the right of the mythical 9a + "Biography" that the German climber repeated in just 4 climbs tie-ins in 2014. "Bibliography" is divided into three very distinct sections: an 8c approach which leads to a hanging rest on two good holds , then an 8B boulder on [top of] which you have to engage in a 9a+ of pure resistance power-endurance which goes up the huge belly until the wall straightens, for a total effort of about 35m.

At the end of 2019, Alex Megos released a new Patagonia collaboration film: Rotpunkt. Magnificent images especially with his first and unique 9b +: "Perfecto Mondo" at Margalef. But also, with the first images of "Bibliography", which cost him an incomparably greater investment. We will therefore know very soon, and will not fail to let you know, if "Bibliography" becomes the second proposition suggested in 9c in history after the famous "Silence" of Adam Ondra. More info to follow

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#267 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:36:26 am
Over 40 days at the time of the Patagucci filming so must be approaching 50 days of effort. Mark Leach sieging energy  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

Pretty sure that he had more than ten days on it this summer ...

We saw him fall very very high on it a few days ago.

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#268 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:37:38 am
an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c

9b+ then.

And agree the walk in is about 8c.

jwi

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#269 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:43:28 am
an uncertainty remains between the 9b and the 9c

9b+ then.

And agree the walk in is about 8c.

Never trust a bilingual dictionary, and never-ever trust machine translation.

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#270 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 09:58:06 am
Has to be 9c or the Megos grade calculator is broken. 14 days to do Perfecto Mundo and 50+ days to do this suggests this is 9c, or Perfecto is 9b...

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#271 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 10:05:02 am
Céüse is harder than Margalef. This is not new?

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#272 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 10:09:09 am
Could be a difference in styles, difference in other factors like walk-ins, conditions, etc etc. Perfecto could be soft / standard 9b+, this thing hard / top-end 9b+.... #armchairgradedebate

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#273 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 10:30:21 am
Céüse is harder than Margalef. This is not new?

Harder than most places!

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#274 Re: Megoswad
August 06, 2020, 03:42:11 pm
Céüse is harder than Margalef. This is not new?



Harder than most places!

Great news, great route on a great crag. Ondras 9c looks pretty uninspiring albeit on an amazing crag. This looks like what 9c should look like.

As for the above comment it puts a smile on my face. In a time long ago Ceuse was thought of as a little bit of Spain in France grade wise.

 

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