[bendavison]

Are people really surprised that Megos can have 8 goes on Northern Lights in a day? 7 of those falling after 4 or 5 clips? I saw him have a few goes, and it looked to me like he was falling because it was a low percentage move, not because he was gassed. Hopefully someone who's been on it can clarify, but I've heard it's pretty constant 7C bouldering. I would expect an 8c+/9a climber to be able to train on sets of 7C boulder problems. Hardly surprising that a 9b climber can do it and have some left for something at his onsight max...

[ghisino]

Are people really surprised that Megos can have 8 goes on Northern Lights in a day? 7 of those falling after 4 or 5 clips?

that's a relevant detail.

and the fact he's basically one grade stronger than the route - many seem to forget about this?

i can see myself have 8 goes in similar fashion on a short 7c+ with an odd low percentage crux, my current record being 8a+.
Things will be much different on a route at/above my limit, regardless of how soon i fall off.

[bendavison]

Also, Stu made an interesting point after Megos did it - It still took Megos 2 sessions, with a couple working goes and redpoints in the first (in the bitter cold) and 8 redpoints the next. Stu couldn't think of any routes two grades below his max, or at his onsight max, that would take so long. Does climbing change qualitatively at the higher grades?

[a dense loner]

Are you being serious? Stu could Boulder 8a+ and I'm quite sure I could take him to quite a few 7b's that he'd probably never do. I know we're talking about routes but get a fucking grip

[Stu Littlefair]

I'm being serious.

1) routes are not Boulder problems. I can't think of a single 8a+ that would take me 8 redpoints.

2) where are these 7bs, you fucker. I'll roast them.


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[a dense loner]

So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant. I take it that's your onsight max you're going for and not claiming to do any given 8c in a day as well, which is 2 grades below your max.
We'll move away from the machine that is Stu for a minute, is there anyone else who thinks they'd be able to do this?

[jwi]

I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.

[ghisino]

I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.

Or in buoux.

Ah, buoux: On the same trip i've done rêve de papillon as my 3rd 8a ever, and spent a whole day trying fissure serge, always falling at the top with a low percentage beta...several time very close including the last attempt of the day. I must have had almost 10 attempts and any one of them could have been the one...
 

[jwi]

If there's a high percentage method on the last hard move of Fissure Serge (for anyone < 190 cm), I'm all ears.

[shark]

We'll move away from the machine that is Stu for a minute

Lets not. Name the 7b's.

Good to see Stu motivated again.

[dave]

I bet Megos would have put a hefty stack of Deutschemarks on pissing any given grit 8a on a cold december day.

[tomtom]

I bet Megos would have put a hefty stack of Deutschemarks on pissing any given grit 8a on a cold december day.

He must have demanded a good few ££ to fluff his lines on the Joker then?

[dave]

Climbing's first example of spotfixing? I have not heard any reports of irregular gambling patterns.

[Paul B]

I'm pretty sure that there are some 7c+'s in Verdon that I could never do in this lifetime.

Exactly. The above, as I pointed out to Ben on FB is a blinkered view on sport climbing IMO (there are some Old Skool FHard routes in the Gorge and other places!) and IF like Ben's original post and you/he were talking about RP then I simply point you towards the work of Markus Bock (let alone the harder things at Buoux).

[tomtom]

Climbing's first example of spotfixing? I have not heard any reports of irregular gambling patterns.

Thats why Shark has given up on the Oak this summer - too many irregular bets placed after his 'i'm close' Jihad video..

[Will Hunt]

Back to Stu.
What are the reachiest, most lank dependent 7Bs we can think of? Pebble Wall Eliminate thing at Almscliff must be a good start but may actually oddly favour those who are shorter for ease of getting bunched on the undercuts.

Is the 7 Foot Dyno at Pex given 7B?

[ghisino]

If there's a high percentage method on the last hard move of Fissure Serge (for anyone < 190 cm), I'm all ears.

i remember something involving a shitty mono intermediate, getting the feet a bit higher, and slapping at the scoop when you are already really high.
It works if you feel strong on the mono and you can lockoff the right hand hold really really low.

i was dynoing to the scoop from the last decent holds, which feels much easier in isolation.

a strong and short friend (165cm) having tried both betas, felt that the dyno would be an easier boulder problem but is indeed very low percentage, while the intermediate/semistatic method is noticeably harder, but 100% sure to go if you can do it. He did the route with the mono method and looked totally in control.

[Stu Littlefair]

So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.

Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.

Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.

*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.

[IanP]

Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.

Particularly since 9a possibly isn't his 'onsight level' in the terms of something he can do with any regularity/confidence.  He only on sighted his first 8c+ at the end of last year more than 2 years after his 9a onsight.

'Megos also made lightening fast work of Victimes del Passat at the Catalonian crag to finally onsight his first 8c+. Two and a half years after making the groundbreaking world's first 9a on-sight - Estado Critico at Siurana - and skipping both 8c and 8c+ onsights in the process, Megos has now added this degree of difficulty to his list of achievements.'


 

[tomtom]

Apparently Megos is at the cave - reading between the lines of Doylo's tweet...

[a dense loner]

I even hear he might eat over that way tonight!

[Oldmanmatt]

Rarebit?


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[Three Nine]

So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.

Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.

Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.

*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.

you told me you failed on Supercool, and that's 8a+ going on 8a

[Wood FT]

So you're telling me that you'd be able to do any given 8a+ in a day? I've never heard anything as ridiculous or arrogant.

Or, you could read what I wrote? I "can't think" of any 8a+ which would take me 8 goes. I'm sure if UKB racks their brains they might think of one and it will probably be a slab, or stupidly reachy*.

Yes, this is my onsight max*. You might think it's ridiculous or arrogant, but simple facts back me up: I've climbed a lot of 8a+s on a range of angles and rock types. The last time I can remember one taking me more than 3-4 goes is around 10 years ago, when my onsight max was ~7c+/8a.

*Let's not forget, the reason I mentioned this to Ben was that, based on my own experience, I was mildly surprised that Alex took 8 goes and 2 days on a route at his max onsight level. So if UKB can find some verdon horrorshow I can't redpoint then chapeaux to the hive mind, but it's hardly surprising or relevant. Northern Lights is not a slab, or a ludicrously reachy trick move. Having thought about it, the reason is clearly that Alex's best onsight is 2 grades below his best redpoint, whilst mine is 6.

you told me you failed on Supercool, and that's 8a+ going on 8a

bollocks

[Stu Littlefair]

True that, well remembered. But I only had three goes. Also, if you remember it was my first week climbing after three months off with injury!

The "when fit" was hopefully implicit.


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