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Megoswad (Read 172827 times)

dave

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#125 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 02:48:17 pm
Rainshadow is turning into a popular first 9a tick then.

a dense loner

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#126 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 07:13:26 pm
Tim, Alex weighs 54 kgs I don't think he could split his tips on a razor blade!

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#127 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 08:05:14 pm
You should be able to have 8 redpoints if you're a full time climber.

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#128 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 08:44:42 pm
Progress and True North for Mr Megos today (both 1st RP I think) and a casual onsight of Urgent Action at the end of the day to cool down. I know no other details as I was belaying on the extreme left of the crag and missed all the action!  :oops:

Paul B

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#129 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 09:27:13 pm
All your friends are lazy. Jules regularly has 7-8 redpoint goes on her projects. And quite regularly succeeds at the end of the day.

Most people today including inspector 5c seemed to think 3 good goes was nearer the norm so I'd challenge what you've said and ask if there's perhaps another explanation (every route of every style at the same grade)? I'd be massively impressed if so. Accepting I AM lazy of course.

On the grade of Hubble (if i dare be so bold) I got the impression he was trying his best to avoid being drawn into the whole debate having simply come to get it done; disappointing as that may be for people needing grade closure. People will draw their own conclusions.

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#130 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 09:28:05 pm
is he going to Malham? or have the housemartins/sunshine ended it?

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#131 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 09:32:24 pm
is he going to Malham? or have the housemartins/sunshine ended it?


Malham seems like it'll be hotter than the sun Lynne for the next few weeks

Kingy

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#132 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 05, 2016, 10:26:46 pm
For me its defo 3 good attempts on top of the warm up bolt to bolt go, then the 4th one will usually be shit. This is the weekend warrior take on it though. Maybe its different for full time uberwads?? Depends on the nature of the route too, a short bouldery one you can have more goes on. On a massive 35m pitch at your limit, walk away after 2 tries!  :)

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#133 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 08:04:40 am
3-4 good goes is "the norm", but people seem to think it's some unchangeable law of physiology.

I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.

It's also worth noting that most of the 3-4 good goes crowd rarely have that 5th or 6th go. Perhaps they'd surprise themselves? I've noticed a common pattern with me where my third or fourth go on a route feels very shabby, but later goes are actually better.


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Paul B

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#134 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 01:11:28 pm
I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.

Megos is a pro climber (truly pro, he doesn't clean windows or do electrical work that I'm aware of?) who is able to have ridiculous numbers of days on without any kind of life responsibilities getting in the way (he probably will have the same number of days in a month that I get in a full UK limestone season utilising my annual leave); he's not a reasonable indicator for people on this thread. I agree it's trainable (he and others are a reasonable indicator of that!). I don't agree that it's practical to do so for the most part / people (high volume = large time input). Perhaps Snr Barros but see the life comments above.

For me its defo 3 good attempts on top of the warm up bolt to bolt go, then the 4th one will usually be shit. This is the weekend warrior take on it though. Maybe its different for full time uberwads??

What Ted said.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2016, 01:33:58 pm by Paul B »

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#135 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 01:33:48 pm
3-4 good goes is "the norm", but people seem to think it's some unchangeable law of physiology.

I've had this discussion with Mawson before and session fitness is as trainable as anything else. A higher volume in training will allow most to have more good goes per day. Megos is famous for doing huge amounts every day and, lo and behold, can have lots of goes.

It's also worth noting that most of the 3-4 good goes crowd rarely have that 5th or 6th go. Perhaps they'd surprise themselves? I've noticed a common pattern with me where my third or fourth go on a route feels very shabby, but later goes are actually better.

Worth noting that it's 8 goes at two grades below Megos's current max. Not 8 goes at his max - would he still get 8 good goes on a 9b? If your missus gets 8 good goes at her proj she could maybe try something harder and have 4.

Stu Littlefair

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#136 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 01:38:47 pm
That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day. At the time she was definitely an 8a climber pushing her limit to the max.

I totally get what PaulB is saying about high volume training days not being ok for everyone, but my second point is so far unanswered. To anyone saying 3-4 good goes is the limit - when was the last time you tried to have 6+ goes on a project?


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Paul B

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#137 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 01:47:36 pm
That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day/

and how about something like Comedy? Or something really short and savage?

Quote
I totally get what PaulB is saying about high volume training days not being ok for everyone, but my second point is so far unanswered. To anyone saying 3-4 good goes is the limit - when was the last time you tried to have 6+ goes on a project?

Last year, definitely. They were totally rubbish and my potential injury alarm was going mental (think Saltbeef-itis with a rope)! For the more endurancy type things I managed to haul myself up I was basically treating it like training after I thought RPing had gone for the day. Admittedly I didn't get on much requiring that level of effort so I can't comment further.

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#138 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 02:14:07 pm
That's the common argument, and it's bollocks. I think she did predator on her fifth go of the day. At the time she was definitely an 8a climber pushing her limit to the max.


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I thought you were talking about 8 goes. Fifth go isn't eighth? It's three less :)

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#139 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 04:43:33 pm
For me if would depend on the length of route. I could have 5/6/7 on shorter stuff but if I get seriously boxed on something long (doesn't happen very often) I'd be in the 3/4 clan. Those without jobs are obviously going to be in the more goes category but agree with Stu most people probably just set a mental limit on number of goes when they could squeeze a few more out. Even if it's just training it's more muscle memory for next time.

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#140 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 06:05:51 pm
I think most people just can't stand the boredom of resting long enough to recover for the 5-6 attempt.

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#141 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 06:44:10 pm
Either in training or in real climbing, I never have enough time to have many goes.
On my board, if redpointing a project, I have a maximum of four goes.
On rock I don't know anymore, but in recent times on the ultra rare occasions that see me in the great outdoors, I have taken the rather good habit of climbing things fast. Which feels bloody good.
Main problem for having many goes is often skin.

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#142 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 06:49:04 pm
At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?

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#143 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 07:03:05 pm
At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
Power Club.

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#144 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 07:34:15 pm
At this point in the thread I think we'd all like to know how many goes during the average redpointing session Simon usually has on the Oak...?
Power Club.
4.

Doylo

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#145 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 07:59:50 pm
It's high time the Oak was addressed in this thread .

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#146 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 06, 2016, 10:00:21 pm
Having a ganders on Vimeo and came across this.
Posted a few weeks ago.
No sound unfortunately.

Alex M's on fire, no surprise that he got up Hubble and the like, in next to no time.

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#147 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 07, 2016, 08:29:55 am
It's high time the Oak was addressed in this thread .




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#148 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 07, 2016, 04:49:34 pm
Does anyone know if megos has done Hubble? I've just read six pages about how many redpoint goes to have on a project. Has there been a consensus yet?

petejh

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#149 Re: Megos does Hubble
June 07, 2016, 04:57:09 pm
8
(c+)

 

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