[Fultonius]

I am a little confused as to the point of this thread? The Alpinist article doesn't mention E10. In the last paragraph it inaccurately infers the YDS grade of a couple of Brit E9's climbed by woman but it is hardly the main focus of the article. Nowhere does it claim Heather Weidner has climbed E10 (and frankly 99% of Alpinist readers would have no interest in that anyway.) All it seems to be implying is that Heather's ascent was badass - which seems a reasonable claim.

It was only me commenting on Slacker's E10 approximation. In all fairness it was an approximation, so I'm not getting that stressed :-). In reply to why don't I do something about it if I feel it's wrong? Well.... that's probably like asking why don't I get off my arse and do something about the politics in this country that I don't agree with. I'd rather just moan!

The more interesting from my point of view is that Pete W has an amazing grading table which basically sorts all of this shit out. It's really well done, but he's always refused over the years for me to let people see it. Occasionally I try and secretly photograph the page in his note book but he's a sharp one.. 

Like all the other "pros" he's a total wimp about being controversial. It's incredible he's prepared to look such a duffer in a banana suit 

And as if by magic Tommy turns up on Alpinist's facebook feed doing some gnarly hard trad to show'em how it's done. 

[Will Hunt]

The more interesting from my point of view is that Pete W has an amazing grading table which basically sorts all of this shit out. It's really well done, but he's always refused over the years for me to let people see it. Occasionally I try and secretly photograph the page in his note book but he's a sharp one.. 

Like all the other "pros" he's a total wimp about being controversial. It's incredible he's prepared to look such a duffer in a banana suit 

That's absolutely shocking,Tom. He's got the minerals to climb some hard and spicy E9 or E10 or whatever but he can't put a potentially valuable piece of information out there for fear of offending some armchair punter on UKC? Get the lad to chuck it online. He needn't do it in a provocative way. How are we supposed to progress otherwise?!


What Would Wilson Do?

[Johnny Brown]

It doesn't sound controversial at all. It will no doubt spawn an enormous ukc thread and make his sponsors happy.

[Tommy]

Ha! That's funny that just turned up.

For the Final Round I wanted to give it E8, but it would cock the grading scale so I went for HXS.

As for making my sponsors happy? No chance. I'm not blonde or fit. Or single. Game over.

[petejh]

Ha! That's funny that just turned up.

For the Final Round I wanted to give it E8, but it would cock the grading scale so I went for HXS.

As for making my sponsors happy? No chance. I'm not blonde or fit. Or single. Game over.

You should be fit given all the energy system nous you have.

It's essential if stuff like E-grades at the higher end are to be meaningful that people at the higher end say what they really think. A sound argument stands on its own merit and Pete W. or whoever shouldn't feel intimidated by saying something a bit controversial. Like it it loath it grades are the currency in which profile-hungry climbers trade. If you believe the currency is devalued then you're in a unique position to do something about it.

It bugs me when certain folk avoid the issue. Most people know the score when it happens - 'E9 for so and so'. In my mind people who let it happen (not P.W., clearly) are happy to take but not to give - happy to take kudos and, perhaps, use grades to raise their profile; but not happy to give back something useful in return, such as an honest opinion to go into the mix.

[galpinos]

As for making my sponsors happy? No chance. I'm not blonde or fit. Or single. Game over.

I'm not sure he was talking about you? There's normally only one looker in a partnership.......

[monkoffunk]

God, if we brexit we will have to use trad grades for sport as well. That would be a nightmare.