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[Cornwall][Tintagel]Path of Daggers][7C+] (Read 6046 times)

turnipturned

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Slightly squeezed line on the super bloc but good fun. Start on the obivous rail left of purple haze, do a big move to a small (1/4 pad) sharp crimp/pinch with left hand then go up and join the top of purple haze. Grade wise I suggest 7C+ but got dodgy finger on left hand so can't really tell how hard I am pulling atm.

Also did another problem starting on the jugs of Purple Haze, head leftwards through the crimp rail and finish up the steep crack. Apparently this had been done in the last week but not details, thought was about 7C and really good problem.

Thought I would mention them to add a few more problems to a great little venue.

« Last Edit: May 27, 2016, 11:43:05 am by Bonjoy, Reason: Tintagel spelling »

Duma

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Thanks tt, need to get back down here, not been since before the blocks moved!

Duma

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Also,  any chance one of the mods could correct the typo in the title for future search ease?

highrepute

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Sound good. Is this the only line the washing away of the third block opened up?

turnipturned

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Also,  any chance one of the mods could correct the typo in the title for future search ease?

Yeah my bad, dyslexic Dan strikes again.  :slap:

Sound good. Is this the only line the washing away of the third block opened up?

I recon the line going left is the best of the lot, my new one is a bit squeezed but good fun and adds another block to try at a smallish venue and might entertain some one for a visit! Don't think there is much going through the roof but worth a look.




Andy W

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Slightly squeezed line on the super bloc but good fun. Start on the obivous rail left of purple haze, do a big move to a small (1/4 pad) sharp crimp/pinch with left hand then go up and join the top of purple haze. Grade wise I suggest 7C+ but got dodgy finger on left hand so can't really tell how hard I am pulling atm.

Also did another problem starting on the jugs of Purple Haze, head leftwards through the crimp rail and finish up the steep crack. Apparently this had been done in the last week but not details, thought was about 7C and really good problem.

Thought I would mention them to add a few more problems to a great little venue.

have you a photo of the line? I did something that sounds a bit like this, starting left of purple haze, keeping left, seemed like two hardish moves, going to a crimp then the top! Did this a year or so ago, but not sure really if its what you describe, probably not!

highrepute

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Slightly squeezed line on the super bloc but good fun. Start on the obivous rail left of purple haze, do a big move to a small (1/4 pad) sharp crimp/pinch with left hand then go up and join the top of purple haze. Grade wise I suggest 7C+ but got dodgy finger on left hand so can't really tell how hard I am pulling atm.

Also did another problem starting on the jugs of Purple Haze, head leftwards through the crimp rail and finish up the steep crack. Apparently this had been done in the last week but not details, thought was about 7C and really good problem.

Thought I would mention them to add a few more problems to a great little venue.

have you a photo of the line? I did something that sounds a bit like this, starting left of purple haze, keeping left, seemed like two hardish moves, going to a crimp then the top! Did this a year or so ago, but not sure really if its what you describe, probably not!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BF3-SVjEQW7/

a dense loner

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Good looking prob in a great looking spot! 8)

Andy W

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Slightly squeezed line on the super bloc but good fun. Start on the obivous rail left of purple haze, do a big move to a small (1/4 pad) sharp crimp/pinch with left hand then go up and join the top of purple haze. Grade wise I suggest 7C+ but got dodgy finger on left hand so can't really tell how hard I am pulling atm.

Also did another problem starting on the jugs of Purple Haze, head leftwards through the crimp rail and finish up the steep crack. Apparently this had been done in the last week but not details, thought was about 7C and really good problem.

Thought I would mention them to add a few more problems to a great little venue.

have you a photo of the line? I did something that sounds a bit like this, starting left of purple haze, keeping left, seemed like two hardish moves, going to a crimp then the top! Did this a year or so ago, but not sure really if its what you describe, probably not!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BF3-SVjEQW7/

I started in the same place then went with my righthand, then throw left for a good hold. Is the crimp kind of slightly rounded?

turnipturned

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Hi Andy.

No the crimp is pretty small (around 1/4 pad) and you can pinch it. You start on the double crimp rail well left of purple haze, i rocked up off a left heel to the said hold (which was just off full lock).

I have a vid which I can send you? You on FB?

Andy W

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Hi Andy.

No the crimp is pretty small (around 1/4 pad) and you can pinch it. You start on the double crimp rail well left of purple haze, i rocked up off a left heel to the said hold (which was just off full lock).

I have a vid which I can send you? You on FB?

Hi, yes cool to see it, I'm sitting in France, my new home and enjoying trying to remember the line or lines we are talking about. If it is the same crimp, i used a heel on the starting holds of purple haze, then went with my right, maybe its not a pinch that way? send me the vid, andy whall FB.

BrutusTheBear

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Heh Andy, hope you are having a splendid time in France.

I think you might be talking about the problem listed as Purple Haze Eliminate here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=12254

It was the Mabon's what did the line going left from Purple Haze.

There are now some easier lines left of Purple Haze and Dan's problem.  A 'crack' line and a line of jugs starting as far back as you wish meeting Purple Haze at it's end.  Great warm ups and something more amenable for the sub 7 punter.

Dense you are correct, the spot is amazing and the boulder is perhaps the most impressive on the coast of the SW peninsular.  The problems are all superb too, AWOL should be on the list of anyone who is capable.

Andy W

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Heh Andy, hope you are having a splendid time in France.

I think you might be talking about the problem listed as Purple Haze Eliminate here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=12254

It was the Mabon's what did the line going left from Purple Haze.

There are now some easier lines left of Purple Haze and Dan's problem.  A 'crack' line and a line of jugs starting as far back as you wish meeting Purple Haze at it's end.  Great warm ups and something more amenable for the sub 7 punter.

Dense you are correct, the spot is amazing and the boulder is perhaps the most impressive on the coast of the SW peninsular.  The problems are all superb too, AWOL should be on the list of anyone who is capable.

Hi Grant, yea having a good time, lots of bouldering here! This is getting difficult! but its not Purple Haze eliminate, its more left than that. It doesn't use any PH holds at all, apart from a heel hook which may use PH starting holds. But my memory is struggling here.

BrutusTheBear

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Sounds like you've done the same thing slightly differently.

turnipturned

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For reference here is a video of Path of daggers: password: daggers

36chambers

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I felt really proud of myself for guessing the password first go, until I saw that you included it in you post anyway...

sweet looking problem.

 

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